Easy Whipped Shea Butter

Over the years, I have used shea countless ways - in emulsions, melt-and-pour products, bars, bath products, hair products, and a plethora of skin care products.

Along the way, there have been lots of opportunities to experience fails, and there have been many, but I have also learned from every single one of them.

A lot of formulators have a love/hate relationship with shea butter. While that’s perfectly understandable, I find it has far too much to offer in the way of skin and hair care to be dismissed simply because it can be fiddly to work with.

Today, I'm going to show you a beautifully simple whipped shea that works for me every time so even if you are new to working with shea, this might be a great way to get acquainted with this wonderful skin-and-hair-loving ingredient.

You can use either refined or unrefined shea butter, but be sure the butter is at room temperature and has a creamy, grain-free texture before you start.

LisaLise's Easy Whipped Shea

Ingredient	%
Shea Butter	80.0
Jojoba (oil)	18.0
Antioxidant of choice	1.0
Essential Oil Blend (optional)	1.0

If you don't want to add essential oils, adjust the amount of jojoba accordingly.

Method

1. Sanitise your equipment and work area

2. Weigh oil and warm to 40°- 45°C

3. Weigh shea and cut into small uniform pieces and transfer to 'whipping container' (choose something tallish that has room for your mixer blades)

4. Transfer oil to shea

5. Whip the mixture. Start at a low speed, then increase until the mixture is homogenous and light (2-4 minutes - depending on batch size)

6. Add antioxidant and (any) essential oils

7. Whip the mixture again until the consistency is light and airy (1-2 minutes).

8. Transfer the mixture to your final container.

It's ready!

Note the difference in color of the final shea - that wasn’t due to whipping, but to the essential oil blend I added.

Over the next 24 hours the butter will ‘set up’ a bit, but will still be light, yet stable. You should be able to easily dip into the balm without having to 'dig’ it out.

A Few Whipped Shea Uses

This simple product is ideal for numerous things! Try it as

• Hand & Cuticle Cream (a little goes a long way)

• Foot Softener (apply after a footbath and don a pair of cotton socks for at home foot spa luxury)

• Dry Hair Tips Conditioner (rub between hands and apply to tips of hair)

• Body Cream (apply after bath for super soft skin)

• Deep Moisturising Night ‘Cream’ (apply after your evening cleanse and massage in gently)

Do Tell

Have you ever made a simple whipped shea? What did you use it for? Please share in a comment below.

Working With Shea Butter

Dandelions For Skincare: Drying the Blossoms

In case you're wondering, this is not a picture of weeds (I've added some helpful text to give you a clue).

Long ago, I would to think only one thing when seeing a meadow full of dandelions: 'pretty, but just weeds'.

No more.

Today, we're going to do a bit of preparation for some honest-to-goodness botanical magic, so grab a basket and get ready to harvest a few dandelion blossoms!

Not convinced why you should be picking 'weeds'?

Then read on to discover what this little treasure of a plant has to offer!

What Makes Dandelions Special

Dandelion (INCI: Taraxacum Officinalis) may be the bain of many gardeners and homeowners, but this widely available plant has so very much to offer.

The 'Officinalis' part of the Latin name is a giveaway that dandelions have a history of medicinal use. Apart from a plethora of different applications for soothing and helping us heal, dandelions are edible (and nourishing) from tip to root.

And there's even more.

My interest in this common plant is due to their natural content of cichoric acid.

And why is this exciting?

Because cichoric acid does a really cool thing: it inhibits the enzyme that breaks down hyaluronic acid in the body. Read: it protects collagen from damage from free radicals.

So, if cichoric acid has the ability to protect our own hyaluronic acid from breaking down, then it might be fair to view dandelions as all-natural little fountains of skincare youth.

See why I'm a little excited?

You: Sounds very interesting Lise, but is all this tested and proven by science?

I love it when you ask me serious stuff!

So far, I am seeing initial conclusions like 'warrants further study' and 'looking positive', but scientific tests are still too few and far between for any conclusive evidence. The prospects have me interested enough to keep digging for more information.

Meantime, there's no reason to put off working with what's growing so abundantly, is there?

So, are you ready to get busy with dandelions?

Dandelion Picking Tips

Although you can use the entire plant, we're going to be concentrating on collecting and drying the blossoms for this exercise.

Where to Pluck Dandelions

Find an area away from roads and other possible sources of contamination (such as pesticides, urinating pets etc). If your own garden lawn happens to fit this description and is filled with dandelions, it's a perfect place to start.

When to Pluck Dandelions

In theory, you can pluck dandelions any time of day, but I find mornings both pleasant and the best time to get the freshest blossoms. Any newly blossomed plants are easy to spot in a lawn (I picked blossoms from my lawn over a period of 3 days). Every blossom I picked for this batch had appeared overnight.

How to Pluck Dandelions

Pinch off blossoms at the top of the stem.

How to Dry Dandelions

Spread out on a clean cloth and allow to wilt in the shade in open air for a few hours. This will give any resident tiny bugs a chance to find another place to reside.

If you have a drying net, use that. A drying net allows air all around the plant.

I started out using my garden table to wilt the flowers, then moved them to a paper towel indoors and placed them face down to finish drying.

Allow the blossoms to dry throughly. Depending on the climate you are in, this could be from a few days up to a couple of weeks.

If you don't have the space to let the blossoms air dry, spread them out on a tray and leave in the oven on very LOW HEAT (about 60°C) overnight.

If you have a dehydrator, even better. Set the dehydrator to between 8-10 hours at about 60°C

When the blossoms are thoroughly dry, pop them into a bag and store dry and dark until use.

A special thanks to Vivienne at The Herbal Hub for the original inspiration to take a closer look at these gems.

Do Tell

Do you work with dandelions in your skincare? How do you use them?

Links to Nerdy Stuff about Dandelions and Cichoric Acid

https://pubs.acs.org/doi/abs/10.1021/jf0258858

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/24871659

https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/0031942295008659

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3982519/

https://pubs.acs.org/doi/abs/10.1021/acs.jafc.5b04533

http://pubs.rsc.org/en/content/articlelanding/2017/ra/c6ra25901d#!divAbstract

TIP: Want to get started making your own extracts but don’t know where to begin? The bundle offer below might be just the thing.

Bundle Offer! Get Started Making Plant Extracts & Three Extracts Guide

Alpha-keratin Protein Mask

Keratin is a pretty amazing ingredient. It can offer moisturising properties as well as having the ability to enhance the skins elasticity.

As you probably already know, many living beings produce keratin naturally. I was surprised to learn quite recently that we humans produce 54 different kinds of keratin. ( REF )

There are 2 forms of keratin

1. Alpha-keratin (sources: hair, horns, and nails of mammals)

2. Beta-keratin (sources: feathers, claws, and beaks of birds & reptiles)

Today, we're going to create our own super easy 3 ingredient alpha-keratin protein mask using ingredients we have right at hand (pun entirely intended).

Prepare Alpha Keratin Powder

To make the star ingredient, you're going to need about 15 grams of nail clippings. You may want to collect clippings from a period of time or if you are impatient, ask your family members and friends to donate theirs.

Grind the clippings to a powder. I use a dedicated nail grinder with a powerful blade but if you don't have one, use the most powerful grinder you have, then sift to achieve a powder.

You're looking for a texture something like what you see pictured below.

When you have your powder ready, then you only need 2 more things to get busy with this mask.

Mask Ingredients

• Yoghurt

• Kaolin clay

• Fingernail keratin powder

Method

1. Mix ingredients to your preferred texture

2. Apply to face, hair, and anywhere else you are comfortable applying this mixture.

3. Let sit until you feel the need to remove it.

4. Rinse off.

5. Pat yourself on the back for so thoroughly engaging in my very silly April fools post.

Happy first of April.

Do Tell

When did you realise I wasn’t being serious? Please share in a comment below.

More About Nail Structure and Keratin

nail structure

ground keratin fibres - cosmetic grade

Producers of keratin waste

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Lipstick Grows on Bushes

This red mess you are looking at is a bit of success. I suppose we could call it a successful mess. It is 100% plant-based colorants in a 100% botanical base. When I realised it actually had the color, opacity, stability, and staying power I had been trying to acheive, I was absolutely beside myself.

But I'm already a little ahead of myself.

Let's go back a bit.

"This shouldn't take too terribly long" said the Eternal Optimist

Over a decade ago, I put this 'little' project on my personal-to-do list. I thought it might be fun to develop a series of color cosmetics that uses solely plant-based colorants and doubles as skincare.

Admittedly, this sounds like mission impossible, but if you have been following me a while, you probably also know I do like a challenge.

You: Only plant colorants, Lise?

Me: Yup - all natural, all plant-based and only botanical colors.

You: But that's not possible! Plants morph and change color - they turn brown and boring.

Me: I know, and that makes the whole thing a bit of a challenge doesn't it?

The Claim: Cosmetics Will Never Be Natural

It was a meme on Instagram (posted by a formulator of the petrochemical persuasion) that helped kick me into gear and get serious about seeing if this could be done.

The meme was a graphic of a bush (or tree?) that was filled with 'blossoming' lipsticks instead of flowers.

The accompanying text was something along these lines:

"until someone invents a lipstick bush, cosmetics will never be natural."

My immediate thought: 'what an odd choice of graphic and words for someone who has obviously never heard of the Lipstick tree'.

And that was it.

I had to prove lipstick could grow on bushes, so I got to work.

As time has passed, this project has been worked on furiously, placed on the back burner and everything in between because, well, sometimes, things just get in the way.

The Value of Accumulated Fails

There have been scads of fails.

I am not exaggerating. I have over a decades worth of batch notes and research to prove it. And one of the most amazing things I have discovered about having THAT many fails is that it changes every fail from being just another learning experience to an entire education in and of itself. It creates a base from which one can begin to step in the direction of success.

And that’s what I am happy to say happens more and more often.

Plant Based Red Lippie

When this successful mess happened in 2018, it enabled me to hone in on a more targeted path to plant-color success.

I'm still working on this and haven’t cracked every plant-colorant code but from my results so far, I can attest to this: Lipstick grows on bushes.

Tip

If you’re interested in walking this plant-colorant path with me, you might consider joining LisaLise Club where I'm sharing my formulas and methods exclusively with members. Click the picture below to read more and sign up.

Lab Tips: Cleaning Away Fats

Any anhydrous mixture with a large percentage of butters and/or waxes is inevitably going to leave a layer of product on your equipment that can be a major chore to remove.

Fats and waxes don't just magically melt away with a bit of detergent and water - especially if they have had time to set up and cool. And your water pipes will thank you for not pouring melted fats and waxes into them because they WILL harden into a clogged mass and cause all kinds of plumbing hell that costs a fortune to repair (can you tell I speak from experience?).

So today, I’m going to share a simple and effective way to clean your containers and tools after making a batch of balms, solid lotion bars, or other fat-rich products without causing plumber anxiety.

Work Fast and Work Warm

While containers and tools are still warm, wipe away excess product with a paper towel (or 2).

To work warm, you have to act immediately after pouring. While this is easiest from a cleaning perspective, it’s not always possible, so if your equipment has cooled and the product has stiffened up and set, gently reheat just enough to where you can easily wipe away the fats.

If you have been using a water bath, it’s just a question of placing the container back over the warm water briefly. If your heat source has cooled in the meantime and you happen to have a microwave available, place any (microwave safe) containers in the oven and do a few short bursts of heat to soften and remelt the product so it can be wiped away.

Don’t Skimp on the Paper Towel

With beakers or glass containers, wipe the inside with paper towel to remove as much excess as possible.

Do your best to remove everything (read: change the paper as often as needed). I generally use between 3-5 sheets of paper towel for each beaker.

When your beaker (or glass container) looks like this (slightly frosted), it is relatively easy to clean away any remainder with ordinary detergent and hot water.

Some folks have suggested saving the fatty paper towels to use as fire starters. I think this sounds like a useful idea but am not a fire starting expert, so if you have tried this or have any additional tips, please feel free to share!

Every Last Bit

Finish the cleanup process with a pass of boiling water (or dip into a basin of boiled water) before drying and storing your equipment. This will remove every last bit of residue.

Alternative Cleanup Methods

You can also use a (70% solution) of isopropyl alcohol to break down fats. Simply spray the solution onto/into the container, let sit momentarily and then wipe the fats away. This may need to be repeated a few times depending on how much there is to remove.

A 70% solution means it is a mixture of 70% isopropyl alcohol with 30% distilled water. If you have access to both ingredients, you can easily make your own .

Baking soda is said to be useful for removing fats but as I haven't tried this on my cosmetic making equipment, I am unsure of how best to use it. Perhaps making a paste with it and applying? If you have tried this please feel free to share your experiences.

Do Tell

If you have any tips for cleaning fats off of equipment, please feel free to share in a comment below.

Book of Natural Balms - Volume 1

How to Have Fabulous Feet Forever

A good friend asked me if I had any good foot care tips (which I did and shared with her). After having tried goodness knows how many methods for keeping feet looking and feeling great, I thought I’d share my own tried and true method with you today.

If you are struggling with thick skin build-up on your feet (otherwise known as 'cheese rind heels'), this method should be quite useful to you. Depending on how bad your feet are to begin with, this beauty treatment can cost you as little as the price of a brush to as much as the price of one foot-treatment plus one brush.

Start by Ditching The File

Despite what many may believe, foot files do more damage than good. The instrument functions by grating and tearing the surface of the skin which only makes things worse. Filing your feet only encourages an increased production of hardened skin (I have this on good authority from a couple of foot-treating pros). It doesn’t matter if you are using a fancy schmancy brand named tool, the function is the same: results that unfortunately only exacerbate the problem.

If your heels are really bad, start by getting the built-up, hardened skin removed by a professional. When that's done, you will be able to keep your heels smooth and supple with the following method.

Brush Your Feet Daily

Get a brush that fits well in your hand with stiffish bristles (think nail brush). If you can get an oversized nail brush, that's ideal (see mine below).

After bathing/showering while the skin is still soft, brush your heels (and wherever else the hard skin build-up happens) vigorously for a minute or 2.

The stiff bristles of the brush will remove dead skin and the brushing will encourage circulation in the feet (which also keeps hard skin build-up at bay).

Don't forget the toenails – brushing lightly around the toes will keep the cuticles back and encourage circulation.

TIP: wash the brush regularly to keep it smelling sweet. (If you don't think this is necessary, try not washing your brush for a couple of weeks and then give it a sniff. Even if you don’t have a tendancy to get stinky feet, a brush full of dead skin cells starts to smell pretty awful pretty quickly.)

Then Soften

Finish your foot care routine by applying a body butter, cream or lotion to your feet. Give yourself ample time to apply and massage each foot to work the moisturiser in.

Then put on a pair of socks. Even if you plan on wearing sandals that day, 10-15 minutes with socks will allow time for the moisturiser to sink in.

All That Takes Way too Long!

If we don’t count the sock wearing time, this entire process only takes about 5-6 minutes in total: 2-3 minutes of vigorous brushing, 2-3 minutes of moisturising.

If you can make this little routine a daily habit, your feet will repay you in spades by looking and feeling fabulous – forever.

You’re welcome.

Do Tell

Do you have any foot care tips you swear by? Please share in a comment below

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