Physical Exfoliants for the Face
Lise
We’re going to get physical today and examine a few exfoliants for facial use. Physical exfoliants are generally added to cleansers, massaged onto the face and rinsed away immediately. They sometimes feel a bit grainy or gritty and can be added to cleansing serums, creams, lotions, and cleansing powders.
I've worked with quite a few exfoliants over the years – both physical and chemical – from the scott free kind to the super pricey kind.
Some physical (and even chemical) exfoliants can be used 'as is', while some are best added to a cleansing product.
Here’s an overview of a few facial exfoliants.
Ground Oats
If you want to exfoliate gently and add a touch of nourishment at the same time, ground oats are for you. Not only are oats are extremely well tolerated - even by the most sensitive skin - they are ideal for all skin types and can be even be used 'as is'. Ground oats have been a staple in my clay and butter cleansers for years. Oats are gentle enough to be used daily. To make your own, simply place a small handful of whole oats into a grinder (or in a stick blender attachment) and whiz until the texture looks like full grain flour. For a finer, more powdery result, pass the ground oats through a sieve a few times.
How to exfoliate with ground oats: Wet a tablespoonful of ground oats with water (or hydrosol) to make a paste. Massage the face and neck gently with the oat paste. Rinse. Ground oats can also be added to any cleanser. Simply add a teaspoonful of ground oats to a teaspoon of cleanser to create a paste and massage onto the face and neck. Note: use the entire portion immediately if you add to an existing cleanser..
How often: 1-7 times a week
Washcloth
This must the most inexpensive exfoliating option around. And there's even extra good news: just because it's cheap and readily available, doesn't mean it doesn't do an excellent job. Used correctly, your washcloth is quite an effective exfoliator that is also gentle enough to be used daily. The only real 'requirement' is using cotton terrycloth (or a close equivilant). The texture of terrycloth has all the right qualities for achieving the perfect result.
How to exfoliate with a washcloth: Start by cleansing your face with a gentle cleanser. Then, moisten a washcloth with hot water and wring it out. Leave the cloth on your face for about a minute so the steam can open the pores. Then, gently rub your face with the cloth using a circular motion. Don't rub too hard. Your skin shouldn't look flushed when you're finished – just fresh and glowing.
How often: 1-7 times a week
Ground Loofah Flakes
If you like being able to 'feel the action' when exfoliating, ground loofah flakes are for you. The flakes are available in several grades (super-finely ground for face, finely ground for hands, coarsely ground for body) and can be purchased in some health food or hobby stores as well as soap-making suppliers. The flakes are often added to hand-crafted soaps. Be sure you are using flakes that have been ground specifically for use on the face. If in doubt, ask your supplier. If your supplier sounds unsure - don't use them on your face. The flakes also need to be proportioned correctly in the product (read: don't overdo it).
A couple of downsides: loofah flakes are difficult to rinse off if you are not standing under running water. I've discovered bits hiding in both hair and ears hours later. Also, loofah flakes do not dissolve and may (with continued use) build up enough to help clog your pipes.
How to exfoliate with ground loofah flakes: Add half a teaspoon of ground flakes to 2 teaspoons lotion or gel-based cleanser and gently massage the face and neck area with the mixture. Rinse. If you use a lotion or gel-based cleanser to begin with, then start with your cleanser, rinse off, and reapply with your added loofah flakes.
How often: once a week
Ground Adzuki Beans
Years ago, I bought a smartly packaged face cleanser/exfoliator that consisted entirely of ground adzuki beans. I didn't have the best of luck with it.
Correction: it was a disaster. The instructions on the package were quite simple: add water and massage on face. Rinse off.
Either the beans were not ground properly or this was an inferior product. The beans scratched my skin, leaving visible trails all over my face after every use. (Yes, I gave it a few chances before throwing it out). This unfortunate experience kept me from adzuki beans for several years. I later learned the beans had in all likelihood not been ground enough by an adzuki bean exfoliating fan.
If you want to use adzuki beans for exfoliation be sure they are very finely ground and if you add to a cleanser, use the entire portion immediately.
How often: weekly
Fine Almond Meal
Like oats, fine almond meal will bring a bit of moisturizing action due to the natural oil content. Almond meal is a good choice for dry and combination skin. If you have very sensitive skin, ground oats is a gentler option.
Note: Not all almond meals are alike. Almond meal should feel gritty – but not scratchy – when it is massaged on the skin.
How to exfoliate with almond meal: Wet a tablespoonful of almond meal with water, liquid of choice, or a cleansing lotion or gel and mix to make a paste. Apply to face and neck and massage gently. Rinse.
Note: use the entire portion immediately.
How often: 1-2 times a week
Herbs and Botanicals
Combining a few choice herbs and dried plants and grinding them finely can make an effective all-natural exfoliating combo gentle enough for daily use. Making your own exfoliating combo is fun, super easy and doesn't take very long to do.
Use the amounts that suit you an play around with the ingredients to make the combinations you like best. Test any ingredient(s) by rubbing it directly on your wrist. It should feel gritty but not scratchy.
Here are a couple of ideas to inspire you:
lavender, cornflower and oats
calendula and chamomile
polenta and lavender
hempseed flour and almond meal
How to exfoliate with herbs and botanicals: Use same method as almond meal.
Note: use the entire portion immediately.
How often: 1-7 times a week (depending on your ingredients)
Mother of Pearl Powder
This exfoliator is seen as an addition to some store-bought products and is quite effective at 'polishing' the skins surface. Mother of pearl is available in several grades. The super finely ground (for facial use) feels so silky it is almost undetectable. I have only seen this ingredient available with certain cosmetics ingredients suppliers. It is meant to be added to a base cleanser of some type and not to be used on its own.
How to exfoliate with mother of pearl: Add to a finished product or to your own cleanser following the directions of the supplier.
How often: once a week
Jojoba Beads
These often have added color and are composed of hydrogenated jojoba. They are both effective and gentle enough to be used daily. I used them in some of my clay cleansers some years ago, and loved the fact that they simply cannot scratch the skin. Jojoba beads dissolve and disappear quite easily.
The only downside is that they cannot be added to a heated mixture or they will melt. Jojoba beads need to be added to an emulsion of a certain viscosity if they are to remain dispersed in the mixture. These are available at cosmetics ingredients and soap-making suppliers. They are not meant to be used alone.
How to exfoliate with jojoba beads: Add to a finished product or to your own according to the directions of the supplier.
How often: 1-7 times a week
Castor ‘Beads’
These are sometimes called Rizi beads and have the INCI: hydrogenated castor oil. Use it as you would jojoba beads. Castor beads have a much higher melt point than jojoba beads and can be added to cleansers during cool-down. The ‘beads’ are barely visible in the portion I am using at the moment and look more like a white powder with hardly any grittiness.
How to exfoliate with castor beads: Add to a finished product or to your own following the directions of the supplier.
How often: 1-7 times a week
More Exfoliating Fun
Check this previous post about exfoliation
Stay tuned for a look at other types of exfoliants.
Do Tell
Do you use exfoliants in your clenasing products? Which are your favorite physical exfoliants for facial use?