The Versatility of Formulating Bi-Phase Products

I’ve gotten some great feedback as well as questions from folks since my latest e-book on Bi-Phase Cleansers came out. Thank you all for your input! A few people have asked if I had any additional bi-phase publications in mind (read on) but I’ve also gotten questions along the line of ‘what does bi-phase mean?’

That’s a perfectly relevant question, so let’s start with what bi-phase means.

In ‘formulator speak’, cosmetics are made with phases. Now, I suppose the term could have been steps, sections, or anything else, but as it happens, phases won.

How Phases Work

If you look at a formula for any cosmetic, each phase is described as a step to be followed as part of the process of making that product.

Some cosmetic products consist of only one phase. These are often products that are cold-mixed (mixed together at room temperature). Some examples: bath salts, (some) exfoliating scrubs, skin mists, body oils etc.

Some cosmetics are made with numerous phases.

A cream, lotion or any kind of emulsion consists of both a water phase (with water soluble ingredients) and an oil phase (with oil soluble ingredients). Each phase is dealt with separately until they are ready to be combined into the finished product.

And as we all know, oil and water don’t voluntarily mix, so every lotion or cream has an ingredient (or 2) to help the oily bits mix with the watery bits and stay mixed.

How Bi-Phase Works

Any bi-phase product (cleanser, eye-makeup remover, serum) consists of two visible phases: one with oily ingredients and one with watery ingredients.

What makes a bi-phase product stand out from most other oil-and-water containing cosmetics is there are purposefully no ingredients added to bind the oils with the waters, so the 2 phases will stay separated unless they are shaken together.

Bi-phase products are meant to be shaken together just before use, where the oils and waters will mix just enough to be dispensed from the bottle. As soon as the bottle is left to stand, on the oils and waters immediately separate.

And that’s where the formulating fun comes in.

Color Play

The visual experience is an important part of creating any bi-phase product. Apart from choosing ingredients for their efficacy, the formulator must also consider the way the 2 phases are going to look – both when they are separate as well as when they are shaken together.

If you have a red oil phase and a blue water phase, you’re going to get a cool shade of purple when you shake the product until it magically separates again when you put the bottle down.

Pictured above are a few of the bi-phase cleansers I created while writing the book. It was really hard not to get carried away with the color combinations! There are so many possibilities for both oils and waters that I ran out of containers long before I was finished playing working.

Easy to Make - Even Bi-Phase Serums

Bi-phase products have additional advantages: not only are they are easy to make, but there are endless ways of customising them. Depending on the ingredients you choose, a bi-phase product can be anything from an eye make up remover to a cleanser - and even a face serum.

Because the Bi-Phase Cleanser book is a formulation template, it already contains the information needed to create any bi-phase product - even a serum.

What separates a cleanser from a serum? The choice of ingredients! A serum will in all likelihood contain pricier and more luxurious oils and waters, but can also feature any actives you may choose to include.

So, although it could be tempting to publish more e-books about bi-phase formulating, I fear I would be repeating myself with a book on bi-phase serums, but perhaps a single formula of some type could be considered. Hmm, that’s not a bad idea.

Thanks for your questions and inspiration!

Do Tell

Have you ever made a bi-phase product? What did you make? Please share in a comment below.

Bi-Phase Cleansers

Make Your own Bi-Phase Cleansers - a New Publication

I’m very excited to share the latest LisaLise publication with you! We’re playing with plant colorants and making a bit of fun-loving, colorful cleansing magic in the form of bi-phase cleansers.

I had a blast putting this one together with all of the different colorful options there are to try.

And guess what? This is all about being able to customise!

It’s a Formulation Template

The astute observer may notice that the cover design features a band of color along the left side (which isn’t very common in my publications). That’s a visual indication that this e-book is (what I have decided to call) a Formulation Template.

This is something I have been wracking my brains about for quite a while: how to create a formula that is fully customisable yet contains enough information to ensure as successful a result as humanly possible.

This self-appointed challenge came about because of the many questions I get on ingredient substitutions. And because not everyone can get every ingredient all over the planet (well, duh), I wanted to try and accommodate that situation by creating a kind of ‘ open formula with a set of guidelines for a successful outcome’.

So it became a Formulation Template.

What does all this mean? It means you get a ‘toolkit’ of ingredient information and additional useful stuff, a formulation template with instructions on how to use it, and some example formulas to show you a few possible variations and get you comfortable with the whole process.

The first formulation template was the tooth powder e-book and I’ve gotten so much positive feedback on it that I just had to do another one. (And if you have suggestions for additional e-books you’d like to see of this type, please feel free to drop a comment below - I’m all ears!)

3 Bespoke Formulas Included

While developing an e-book of this type, I make and test a lot of formulas in several different versions. I decided to include 3 of the formulas in this book. So apart from the template (which shows you how to create your own formulas), you can also dive right in and get busy making one of my formulas if you like.

Bi-Phase Cleansers are Both Versatile and Easy to Make

What I love most about this type of product is the absolute versatility it offers. You can use these as eye makeup removers or cleansers, dress them up with fancy ingredients or dress them down to the bare basics. You can create specifically for certain skin types or just have fun with color mixing for the sheer playfulness of it.

The book is illustrated with several of the versions I made and I better warn you right now. If you like playing around with colors, you might get little addicted to making and using these.

Click the picture below to learn more about this publication.

Bi-Phase Cleansers

Do Tell

Which kinds of products would you like to see available as Formulation Templates?? Please feel free to pop in a comment below!

Below is the first Formulation Template.

Botanical Tooth Powders

Make Your Own Botanical Tooth Powders - a New Publication

I’ve been working flat out on a different kind of publication concept and it’s all because of you. I wanted to be able to give you something you’ve been asking me about (repeatedly) for years: 100% customisable formulations.

(insert double take)

Yes, really.

It’s been a bit of a challenge and has taken me quite a few trials and tests (and a bit of tribulation), but I hope you’ll agree this new format makes it possible to jump straight in and get creating and making with locally available ingredients - regardless of where you are on the globe - and (almost) regardless of skill level!

After debating with myself what to call this concept and format, I finally decided on ‘Formulation Template’. (I know it may not seem like the most original name on the planet, but it describes the function pretty well, don’t you think?)

Pictured above is my very first.

What’s a LisaLise Formulation Template?

In order to offer you 100% customisable formulations, a set of ‘formulating rules’ needed to be created: a Formulation Template. Think of it as a specially designed framework that allows you total freedom with ingredients choices and enables you to make an endless variety of possibilities - as long as you stay within the framework.

This whole concept came about as a result of the many questions I have gotten over the years about ingredient substitutions.

• “I can’t get ingredient X where I live. What else can I use?”

• “Ingredient Y costs a packet where I live! Is there an alternative option?”

• “Can I substitute ingredient Z without messing up the stability?”

I’ve been there numerous times and think I can safely say I understand the frustration of not being able to source everything listed in a given formula.

Now, (Almost) Anything Goes

Having a Formulation Template in hand frees you of the frustration of having to substitute ingredients. Now you can start with ingredients you CAN source and build your formula from there.

Formulation Templates are created so you can customise to your hearts desire.

A Formulation Template consists of

• Main Formulation Template

• Detailed Guideline for Using the Template to Create Your Own Formulas

• Ingredients Information

• Formulating Notes & Tips

• Formulation Examples

• Bespoke Formulation(s)

Now, Put Your Formulating Power Where Your Mouth is

To kick off this new type of publication, I wanted to share some brand new subject matter – something I have never written about (publicly) before. It also happens to be one of my own personal care favorites because it allows for endless customisation possibilities: tooth powders.

You: Tooth powder, Lise? But is homemade tooth powder safe and effective enough?!

Me: Yes, and then some.

Botanical Oral Health

For generations, we have all been led to believe that commercially produced toothpaste (and other oral care products) are better, safer, and more effective than anything handcrafted.

That is, to put it diplomatically, a misunderstanding.

The world is full of powerful botanicals that can not only deliver superior function for overall oral health, but also target specific issues such as gingivitis, cavities, plaque formation, and bad breath.

Most of these herbs (and additional ingredients) boast a long history of traditional use that has been passed down through generations.

And here’s the best part: the majority of these botanicals and additional ingredients are readily available around the globe.

Happily, modern science has affirmed the efficacy of numerous natural ingredients for oral health with documented studies, many of which are listed in the (included) references section.

No Foam = No Function?

Here’s a little reveal from this publication. Foam is not required to cleanse teeth and gums properly. The detergents commonly added to commercial toothpastes are not there to clean the teeth, but are only present to help spread the paste in the mouth.

The ingredients section in Botanical Tooth Powders explains more.

Ready to Get Busy?

If you’re interested in learning a bit more about making your own botanical tooth powders, please visit this page.

LisaLise Newsletter

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Glycerine, Glycerites and Preservative Power

Several of you have asked me about the preservative power of glycerine.

Can glycerine really function as a stand-alone preservative in a glycerite?

This is an excellent question.

I do wish the answer was more straightforward though.

The answer is "yes, but it depends."

Depends on What?

The need for adding preservative to a glycerite not only depends on the raw materials, but also how much you use of each component.

You: (groan) Really, Lise? Seriously? Does this have to be so difficult from the get-go?! Surely there is a simple answer!

I feel your frustration.

But you have to remember that glycerites can be made with a gazillion (if not a trillion gazillion) different things:

• dried herbs

• fresh herbs

• dried whole flowers or petals

• fresh flowers or petals

• dried fruits

• fresh fruits

• fresh veggies

So there's really not an easy answer to this question. I wish there was, but then life would just be far too simple, and life – apparently – doesn't like being simple when it comes to glycerites.

Why Life Isn't Simple When it Comes to Glycerites

During my research of glycerite-making methods, I have come across numerous different recommendations of how much glycerine to use to ensure proper preservation of the end product.

During all this time, I have never come across a single written (or online) source that could recommend percentages for a fresh food glycerite.

Not. A. Single. One.

I did keep notes of the recommendations I did find, which mostly focused on using reconstituted dried herbs. According to those, each of the following percentages is 'the norm' for how much glycerine to add to a glycerite to ensure proper preservation:

• over 25%

• 50%

• minimum 50%

• over 55%

• 75%

• 80%

Quite a span, there, don't you agree?

Many of these sources also recommend a 'use by' period which ranges from 6-24 months.

Every one of the above mentioned sources have struck me as serious, professional, and experienced (some links below). As glycerites have roots in herbalism, many were referring to extracts meant for consumption.

The Difference between Glycerites for Consumption and for Cosmetics

A glycerite for consumption is generally stored in one place at a steady temperature until it is added directly to food/drink and consumed.

On the other hand, a glycerite for cosmetic use may find itself in any kind of temperature and humidity (bathroom, handbag, pocket etc) in the end product. It is also opened and dipped into numerous times (with a possibility of contamination from the user) and still expected to have a shelf life that surpasses anything meant for consumption.

How Much Preservative?

My very first post on glycerites was a cucumber extract (link to updated post) which included the addition of 0.5% preservative.

That amount was inspired from a glycerite making guide on cosmetic supplier Aroma Zone's website which calls for 50% glycerine, reconstituted dried herbs and the addition of 0.6% broad spectrum preservative. (LINK)

For the cucumber glycerite, I chose to use 0.5% preservative and a glycerine percentage of 'just around 50%'.

'Just around 50%'? Is That Accurate Enough?

Nope.

'Just around 50%' is not accurate enough.

With fresh fruit and veg, the water-to-glycerine ratio gets tricky. To add to the 'fun', fruits (and many vegetables) contain sugars which can be an additional challenge.

If you don't know the exact water (and sugar) content, it's pretty much impossible to calculate exact percentages of anything.

How does one measure the exact water (and sugar) content of a fresh strawberry?

One cannot (if one also wishes to use it in a glycerite).

The only way to approach the water question is to find the average water content of said fruit (or veg), then work from there.

But average numbers are not exact numbers.

So.

To know for absolute sure how much – if any – preservative needs to be added to your glycerite, you need to do some calculating – followed by a bit of testing.

For Real?!!

You: (groaning and eye rolling) Math and then testing, Lise?! Seriously?! Could this get any worse? Why isn't there an easier way?

I totally feel your pain.

Really.

I've already spent quite a bit of time trying to find the answers. And if there was an easy, all-in-one, simple-dimple answer to this question, I would hand it to you on a silver platter.

But there isn't, so I can't.

But there's something I can (and will) do – provide you with a general guideline, and that is this:

Glycerine will greatly reduce the possibility for bacterial growth when it exceeds 50% percent of the solution.

You still have to do the calculating on the material you are using and go from there.

From what I have been able to find in the time I have been working with glycerites, the information on the preservation power of glycerine in glycerites for cosmetics is pretty much uncharted territory.

In my book The Art of Making Glycerites for Cosmetics, there are guidelines to help you do the calculation, but they are still guidelines. If I had tested every possible raw material on the planet, I could have given you a chart with set percentages, but that would probably take me longer to get through than anyone has the patience to wait for (even me).

I'll conclude with a few updated helpful tips to help you on your glycerite-making way.

LisaLise's Glycerite Making Tips

• Measure every ingredient accurately – and only by weight

• Work clean (keep your work space clean, sanitise equipment etc)

• Use prime raw materials (discard anything that isn't fresh or perfect)

• Keep copious notes

• Label everything you make (date, ingredients, and everything else that will help you recreate – or be able to pinpoint why you don't want to recreate – your formula

• Save a LABELLED, DATED portion of your formula for observation – even long past your 'use by' date. This is by far one of the most educational things you can do for yourself, and will require a bit of storage space as you continue to make glycerites.

Finally, don't forget to have fun with it – even the math part.

You can totally do this.

How do I know?

Cuz I just know.

Do Tell

How long do your glycerites last? Please share in a comment below!

References

John Kabara, Donald S Orth, Preservative free and self preserving cosmetics and drugs, Priciple and Practice, 1996, 45-69 (LINK)

Preserving Syrups, The Pharmaceutic and Compunding Laboratory, UNC Eshelman School of Pharmacy (LINK)

Cech, Richo, Making Plant Medicine, 2000 (LINK)

Gladstar, Rosemary, Medicinal Herbs: A beginners Guide, Lemon Balm Glycerite, 160 (LINK)

Gladstar, Rosemary, Family Herbal Guide to living life with energy, health and vitality, 2001 (LINK)

Green, James, The Herbal Medicine Maker's Handbook - A Home Manual, p 185-192 (LINK)

Wynn, Susan, Fougere, Barbara, Veterinary Herbal Medicine, p225 (LINK)

Fetro, Charles W, Avila, Juan R, The Complete Guide to Herbal Medicine, p8 (LINK)

Preservative for Biological Specimens , US Patent, 1978 (LINK)

The Art of Making Glycerites for Cosmetics

Choosing Natural Preservatives - a Free E-book

The most frequent question I get from my students, readers and followers is “Which is the best natural preservative?”

I wish there was a short and simple way to answer this, but there isn’t.

Choosing a preservative is always formula specific and can even change if as little as one ingredient is substituted.

This free e-book is a compilation of manufacturer information on some preservatives that are generally accepted as natural. Some are COSMOS approved, some are ECOCERT approved, and some have no classification.

I have also included a few tips on what to consider when choosing a preservative.

I hope this will be useful as a starting point and help you in your research.

Click the picture above or the button below to download the book.

Happy reading!

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Let’s Talk Formulating!

Join the conversation about making cosmetics in our online community at Formulators Kitchen.

Click the picture below (or right here) to sign up.

We look forward to welcoming you to the ‘Kitchen’

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How to Make a Fresh Blueberry Glycerite

This is an updated version of my original post from 2016.

Working with fresh fruits for cosmetic extracts (particularly blueberries) can be a bit tricky, but with careful attention to a few specific things (which I am going to share with you here), you'll be enjoying your own fabulous blueberry glycerite in under a week.

Let’s get busy!

LisaLise's Blueberry Glycerite Formula

Ingredient	Percent
Glycerine	50.0
Fresh blueberries	49.4
Preservative	0.6

Calculate your batch size. I have made a relatively small portion here.

Prep Tips

Blueberries can be sneaky. Sometimes a berry getting ready to go wonky will hide in the bunch. Since we don't want to add any wonky or even semi-wonky berries to our lovely glycerite, every single berry should be carefully examined. This may seem a bit tedious, but it will help ensure a successful result.

Use only firm, plump, pristine berries that are bursting with blueberry deliciousness (and keep a few extra on the side for scientific taste testing purposes)

Cutting each berry in half will increase the surface area while allowing you to carefully examine every berry.

Method

1. Prepare your workspace (sanitize the jar and your equipment)

2. Wash berries thoroughly in demineralised water and allow to dry

3. Inspect and slice berries

4. Weigh berries

5. Weigh and add glycerine

6. Add preservative

7. Place lid on jar

8. Keep jar at room temperature away from direct sunlight (I usually pop a clean dishtowel over my brews so they are easy to check on)

9. Agitate the jar once a day for 5-7 days

At the top of this post is a peek at the jar shortly after I put on the lid. One cannot help but fall in love with the color, can one?

Fast forward 6 days.

Straining the Glycerite

Straining any glycerite can be an exercise in patience if you do not have any special straining equipment, so here are a few tips to help ease the process. I call this the double manual filter process.

You'll need

• Container

• Funnel (or 2)

• Filters (shown here are paper coffee filters but you can use layers of tightly woven cheesecloth or muslin cloth as well)

• Protective gloves

• Bottle

Be sure your funnels, container and equipment are all sanitised before you start. Don a pair of protective latex or nitrile gloves, place the funnel over the container and line it with a filter.

Prepare a second filter (so it can be slotted into place with one hand)

Pour the mixture into the funnel.

Scoop out and discard any excess floating berries.

The liquid dripping though the filter will slow down after a while.

When that happens, gently gather the edges of the filter and lift it up while placing a new filter (or second funnel with filter) into place. You now have a handful of filter number 1 - containing mostly berries and some glycerite.

Ever so gently, squeeze the filter you are holding to extract as much liquid as possible.

Discard the fruit-laden filter.

You now have a setup that looks like this: a filter full of mixture that is slowly straining.

Key word: slowly.

They say patience is a virtue.

Prepare to be virtuous.

Here's how:

1. Place your filter/container setup in an undisturbed place.

2. Cover it loosely with a 'foil tent' or other material that will keep dust, bugs, etc away from the mixture.

3. Wait.

4. Wait some more.

5. Wait even longer.

6. If your glycerite stops dripping altogether, repeat the filter replacement process.

7. When the glycerite has finished straining, transfer it to your bottle.

8. Date and label the bottle.

9. Store your glycerite dark and cool.

Time Factor

This particular glycerite was strained using solely coffee filters and took a total of 5 and a half hours to filter through. It would in all likelihood have gone faster with some of the above mentioned cloth options.

TIP: If you use cloth filters, be sure the cloth is clean before use (wash new fabric before use as it is most often chemically treated)

How Long Does a Glycerite Last?

I have glycerites over 5 years old that are still good. That said, if you are using your glycerite in a cosmetic that is expected to have a reasonable shelf life, I recommend using it within 6 months of making.

Enjoy!

Blueberry fun facts

• Blueberries have an average water content of around 84%

• 100 grams of blueberries is about 57 calories

• Blueberries have a natural content of methylparaben

Do Tell

Do you make glycerites? Which products do you use them in?

PS: The book below is a complete guide to making your own glycerites for cosmetics and even shows you how to drop the preservative and make your own self preserving glycerites.

The Art of Making Glycerites for Cosmetics

LisaLise Newsletter

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