Kpangnan Butter for Skin and Hair

That bit of butter up there may not look like much, but it's a treasure trove of hair and skin-loving goodness.

While on a quest for the ideal butter for lotion bars a few years ago, kpangnan literally showed up unannounced on my doorstep (as a small sample packet from a supplier). The timing was perfect – it was immediately incorporated into a small test batch that performed so well that I fell quite in love with it and have been using it ever since. Let’s see, that makes it about 10 years now.

Let's have a look at how what this butter has to offer and find out why it made my lotion bar ingredients list of winners.

Say it With Me

Even though kpangnan butter doesn't have much going for it in the memorable name department, it's actually much easier to pronounce than it than it is to spell.

It's pronounced 'Pan-ya'.

Kpangnan (Botanical name: Pentadesma butyracea) is also known as Kanga, Kanya, Painya, and Akpoto. The tree is native to Central and Western Africa, and the butter is made from the seeds of the (edible) berries that grow on it. Unsurprisingly, kpangnan is also known as the 'African Butter Tree'.

Production of the butter is not unlike the production of shea butter (which is entirely by hand). Kpangnan butter does not require as many steps as shea, but is still entirely hand-produced in local communities.

Depending on where (and how) it is made, kpangnan butter can vary in color - from a creamy white to a rich yellow. It is available both as refined and unrefined. I have only ever worked with raw, unrefined so am unable to offer any input on how the refined butter is. I have however noticed some suppliers offer a 'carefully refined' butter (which may or may not be market speak). The butter pictured above is unrefined and from Aroma Zone.

The Treasure Inside

Kpangnan butter has a content of healing and anti-inflammatory components that makes it ideal for application (but also consumption).

It is also anti-oxidant and is so soothing for skin that it is recommended for sufferers of eczema.

Here are some of the goodies you'll find in kpangnan butter:

• Vitamin f

• Omega 6

• Oleic acid (44%)

• Stearic acid (45%)

• Tocopherol (vitamin e)

• Stigmasterol

That last one may not be as known as the others. Let’s take a closer look.

Stigmasterol is Pure Plant Power

A precursor to vitamin d, Stigmasterol belongs to a group of plant sterols. It has been showing some impressive health-inducing properties in scientific studies (a few links below). Mind you, all of the studies are based on consumption of stigmasterol - not from applying it topically.

Good For Hair and Good Everywhere

Kpangnan is widely recommended for hair care - particularly coils, kinks and curls. Some years ago, while developing a series of products specifically for textured hair, I repeatedly discovered that ingredients recommended for kinks and curls all seemed to work beautifully on my skin. Kpangnan was definitely one.

Kpangnan butter is lovely to work with and a great addition to solid skin care (think lotion bars). It has a relatively neutral scent too (a plus). Because it is not very greasy to the touch, kpangnan butter could even be described as powdery feeling.

Texture-wise, I would place it somewhere in between cocoa butter, mango butter and shea butter.

Kpangnan can be used straight up - right out of the packaging - as a smoothing, non-greasy skincare product. Although it may not work for everyone, I’ve found a small application of kpangnan butter has the ability to put an immediate stop to itchiness on my (ridiculously sensitive) skin.

INCI name: Pentadesma Butyracea Seed Butter

Do Tell

Have you ever worked with this butter? Which product did you use it in, and how did you like working with it?

More Info on Stigmasterol and Kpangnan

Stigmasterol: a phytoesterol with potential osteoarthritic properties (LINK)

PubChem's breakdown of stigmasterol (LINK)

Chemical analysis of kpangnan (LINK)

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Book of Natural Balms - Volume 1

Dandelions and Skincare - What Does Science Say?

When I started researching dandelion’s possible uses for skincare some years ago, I was pretty impressed at what this common plant has to offer.

Useless weed?

Ahem.

Think again.

Even science has declared dandelions 'warrant further study'.

(Science usually says this kind of thing when it finds evidence that traditional remedies aren’t all fairy tales and fantasy). I seem to be seeing that happening more and more these days.

And the truth is, there is a wealth of hidden treasure in this multifunctional and bountiful plant.

Shall we take a closer look at dandelions?

Dandelions Have Healing Properties

Science agrees the chemical composition of Taraxacum officinale (that's the botanical name for dandelion) makes it helpful and useful for numerous medical conditions and ailments.

Dandelions are

• Antioxidative

• Anti-inflammatory

• Antimicrobial (to some degree)

• Diuretic

• Tonic

All this medicinal magic from a 'weed' most homeowners are busy trying to banish from their gardens.

Extraction Methods are Up for Discussion

The most up to date scientific articles I have found on dandelions seem to be focused on examining which plant part has the most to offer in the way of actives.

Some studies are focused on the root while others are studying plant parts and their constituents in correlation to what time of year they are harvested before extraction.

Extraction methods are also being studied to determine which is most efficient. Ethanol extraction seems to be getting the most attention in the scientific community, although there are a few scientific souls looking into oil extraction. Check the links below for more information.

LisaLise Soothing Dandelion Balm Experiment

Pictured here: side-by-side infusions in 2 different oils. On the left, dandelion blossoms in sunflower oil and on the right, leaves-and-stems in sweet almond oil.

I combined the 2 finished macerations with a few other other plant-based soothing ingredients in a test balm (pictured at the top of this post).

This is a bit typical of the way I work - a combination of research, trying out ideas, and experimentation.

What started me on this dandelion research was a comment about dandelions for pain relief. Admittedly, the commenter was taking dandelion internally (by the drop as a tincture), but the idea of trying it in topical application was the basis for the infusions and a foot balm for tired aching feet.

You know when you have been on your feet all day and your feet start yelling at you to sit down? That kind of tired and aching.

I got such a great response from my extensive test team (foot left and foot right) that I have done many batches since and have even handed out a samples to a few willing testers.

Dandelion TIP

If you want to get max bang for your buck, try doing oil extractions with the alcohol intermediary method using all plant parts. I split up the parts of the planet so I can also combine oils.

Do Tell

Do you use dandelions in any of your skincare products? Please share what your experiences are in a comment below!

More About Dandelions: Nerdy Stuff

Dandelion (taracum officinale and T Mongolicum), Erik Yarnell, Kathy Abascal (LINK)

Taraxacum Officiale herb as an Antiinflammatory Medicine, American Journal of Advanced Drug (LINK)

Taraxacum- a review on its phytochemical and pharmacological profile (LINK)

Anti inflammatory evaluation of the methanolic extract of taraxacum officinale in LPS stimulated human umbilical vein endolethial cells (not oil extracted, but still interesting) (LINK)

Topical herbal Therapies and Alternative and Complementary Choice to Combat Acne (LINK)

Taraxacum: an overview (Science Direct) (LINK)

Qualitative and Quantitative analysis of phytochemicals of Taraxacum Officinale (LINK)

If you want to make a few balms with me, please check out the ebook below.

Book of Natural Balms - Volume 1

How to Treat a Rash from DIY Baking Soda Deodorant

Having to deal with a sudden rash, redness, itchiness, pain, swelling or rough, leathery skin in the armpits is nobody's idea of a good time. Unfortunately, this has become an unexpected and painful reality for a heck of a lot of people who are simply trying to live a greener life.

Information (and misinformation) about some commonly used ingredients in deodorants continues to flourish, causing many to seek alternatives to commercially produced deodorants.

A great number of the 'greener’ (and DIY) deodorant solutions involve applying a chemical compound more commonly known as baking soda to the delicate skin of the armpits, which can causes a wide range of unfortunate and unpleasant reactions.

In Theory, it Sounds Like a Good Idea to Use Baking Soda as a Deodorant

The logic of reaching for baking soda is understandable: it is easily obtainable at any supermarket and great for many household uses: cleaning, spot removal, etc.

It’s also a great deodoriser (ever hear of placing an open box of baking soda in the refrigerator to remove odors? It works)

So how could it possibly be harmful?

What folks are overseeing in their otherwise admirable quest to go green is that baking soda (or sodium bicarbonate) is a chemical compound that can function as an irritant with prolonged skin contact.

Applying it to armpits is not only prolonged direct contact, but prolonged contact with a sensitive area.

What Happens With Prolonged Skin Contact to Baking Soda

There are a variety of common reactions to baking soda deodorant

• Discoloration (reddish, brownish or general darkening) of the skin

• Thickening, leathery skin

• Slight rash

• Heavy, itchy rash

• Rash with painful pustules

Yikes!

Damage Done, Now What?

Because so many of you have asked, I've put together a few tips for dealing with the discomfort of ‘baking soda burn’ to help get your pits back on track as quickly as possible.

How to Treat Baking Soda Burn

Contrary to what you might have read or heard, the rash/itchiness/reaction you are experiencing is NOT due to ‘detoxing from commercial deodorant’. It is more likely a reaction to the baking soda in the deodorant you used.

First thing to do is put that deodorant away and refrain from using any deodorant until your pits are once again happy and healed.

Depending on how serious your discomfort is, consider seeing a doctor. This may sound like overkill, but some folks have had quite serious reactions that needed immediate medical attention. If you are in even the teensiest bit of doubt – get your doctor to check your pits.

If your skin has become thick, leathery and/or discolored but is otherwise pain-free, you can probably self treat with one or more of these methods

• Apply cool compress (wet a clean soft cloth with cold water, wring out and place on armpits)

• Apply pure aloe vera to the affected area (if you can source aloe vera juice, try misting it on the pits. If you can source aloe vera gel, apply a thin layer to pits)

• Mist the affected area with a hydrosol (rose, lemon balm, chamomile and lavender are quite calming)

• Cucumber cooler. Line a small bowl with a soft cloth. Grate cucumber into the cloth. Gather up edges of cloth to form a little ‘bag’ (like pictured above) and gently dab the pits with the bag.

• Make a colloidal oat solution and use to gently ‘wash’ the pits. This can also be made using regular rolled oats and water (drop a teaspoon of oats into a bowl of water and stir — the liquid should be runny but slightly ‘gloopy’). To use, dip a clean soft cloth in the liquid, wring out lightly, and gently dab the armpits.

• After washing/rinsing, help soothe the area with a small application of pure coconut oil. Be gentle!

• While your pits are healing, an acidic mixture such as fresh lemon juice or apple cider vinegar diluted in water (about 1:10) can be carefully dabbed on unbroken skin

I wish you a speedy recovery and happy pits!

Make Your Own Botanical Deodorants

If you are interested in learning how to make your own effective botanical deodorants (and other personal care products) with simple, easy-to-source ingredients, check the e-book below (available in both English and Spanish). The 3 bottles on the right of the picture below are deodorants.

Make Your Own Preservative Free Natural Cosmetics With 21 Ingredients

Haz tus propios productos cosméticos naturales sin conservantes con 21 ingredientes

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Sign up for the LisaLise Newsletter to stay in the loop about ingredients and processes. You’ll also get formulating tips & tricks, free formulas and how-to’s and loads of natural cosmetic inspiration.

Testing an Ingredient Blend

This little bottle doesn’t look like much, but the contents is about effect more than anything else. As you may guess from the name on the label, this has been created with feet in mind. To be more specific: tired and arthritic feet.

This is a mixture of macerations and essential oils with herbs/botanicals that include comfrey, daisy, black pepper, eucalyptus, meadowsweet, and wintergreen (to mention the main players).

If you are used to blending essential oils, I’m betting you can already tell this is not a deliciously intoxicating perfumed fragrance, but more of an earthy-herby medicinal type of scent - definitely not something you want to be applying on a face.

But that’s ok for this product.

When I’ve tested this to my satisfaction, these ingredients will be adjusted (if needed) and used to make a soothing balm for a special and very loyal client.

Do Tell

Do you make test blends of ingredients before committing to making a balm? Please share in a comment below.

Book of Natural Balms - Volume 1

Spicy Ointment

Here’s a peek at the ingredients of an ointment I put together not long ago. The inspiration came from fire cider.

If you are not familiar with fire cider, I can reveal it is a spicy, strong, multifunctional immune boosting cocktail of herbs in a vinegar base. If you want to make your own (it’s super easy!), please visit this page for more information.

Fire cider is a great tonic to have at hand and can be used in any number of delicious ways. (It is the only vinegar I use in my salad dressings now).

So how did fire cider inspire me to make a spicy ointment? Blame my feet. A ‘warming, pain-relieving, soothing, spicy ointment’ was something my feet decided I should try, so I did.

Pictured above: several handcrafted macerations with spices and oils. To mention just a few of the spices included: ginger, cloves, black pepper, nigella seed, coriander seed, fennel, chili, turmeric, and cinnamon. How do all these combine? To my delight, beautifully! The fragrance of the final product even has full husband approval.

Although the result is a fabulous foot-friendly ointment that does everything I hoped it would do, it comes with requirements. I learned (the hard way) that it is imperative to wash hands thoroughly immediately after applying. Do not even think about rubbing anything even remotely close to your eyes. Do not consider applying to lips (too late — I did and it took about a nanosecond before I was removing it again).

Do Tell

Have you ever made a spicy ointment? Which spices did you use?

The book below shows you how to make several spicy lip balms with your own spice-infused oils.

Book of Natural Balms - Volume 1

Texture Test

Although you may think of caramel and sweet dessert looking at this photo, it is a side by side test of 2 oleogels with 2 different emulsifiers. I can’t reveal very much just yet, but after numerous of batches with different ingredients interspersed with loads of research and digging around, it looks like we’re getting there.

OK, I just said I couldn’t reveal anything yet, but I’ll tell you anyway.

I’m working on developing a DIY plant-based, easy to make, functional emulsifier.

Why?

Because sometimes an idea just pops into my brain and won’t leave me alone until I get serious with it.

This idea started sometime early last year and has been ongoing in between my other projects, so I haven’t been able to work on it full time, but that’s ok. Sometimes ideas need time to ‘solidify’.

During some of my research, I came across this lovely lady who made her own version of sucragel. (Her emulsifier is fabulous and easy to work with so do give the post a read if you want to try making Heike’s emuslifier).

The idea for my own emulsifier is quite ‘roots’ (read: plant-based to the point of being able to go out and forage for the ingredients). It is getting there, but there are a few more batches and tweaks first.

More to come.

Meantime, if you want to work with emulsifying systems easily sourced from cosmetic ingredient suppliers, the book below walks you through the process of making your own stable hand-stirred emulsions.

An Introduction to Natural Cosmetic Emulsions - Hand-Stirred Lotions and Creams