Activated Charcoal as a Skincare Ingredient

Cleansing with Charcoal?

It does sound like a bit of an oxymoron, doesn't it? How can applying a black substance cleanse anything at all?

Let's take a closer look at the ins and outs of activated charcoal.

One of the more recent buzzwords making the rounds in the beauty (and health) industry is 'detoxify'. It's understandable actually. We are all exposed to more than our fair share of unwanted chemicals via both air and water in most modern environments. And as a natural extension, our first line of defence - our skin - is going to take a bit of a beating.

That is where detoxifying comes in.

Imagine finding something we could use that just cleared away all of the toxins and unwanted chemicals.

The Good News

The good news: that something exists.

Activated charcoal has the (documented) ability to draw out and adsorb unwanted chemicals when taken internally.

And before I continue, let's just clarify the difference between absorb and adsorb.

ABsorb vs ADsorb

An item that absorbs integrates a substance into itself (kind of like a sponge takes up water).

An item that adsorbs attracts and keeps the substance exclusively on its surface area.

Activated charcoal is great at adsorbing because it is extremely porous (read: loads of surface area). (LINK)

The Less Good News

Now for the less good news: (some) science says activated charcoal may not be all that with topical use.

Instead of being able to give you a long list of links to dozens of studies proving activated charcoal clears up acne, brightens skin, helps heal wounds, and erases 20 years of wrinkles, it appears the jury is still out on how well activated charcoal works when applied topically. (some links below).

While researching this, I read many of the cons as well as the pros on activated charcoal's abilities with topical use and decided to share my conclusion with you.

Seeing as activated charcoal has been used for water purification, preservation and wound treatments (!) since ancient Egyptian times (link) , I am of the opinion that (some) modern science really needs to catch up with what history has already shown.

You: Lise, you're questioning science again

Me: Of course I am. Proper science welcomes questions.

In truth, it is up to every individual to decide whether or not activated charcoal works for them.

Now let's examine what this black substance comes from and what we can use it for in a cosmetics/personal care setting.

Activated Charcoal Production

Activated Charcoal is also called activated carbon. The raw material can come from various types of sources - from petroleum pitch to wood, coconut husk or even bamboo.

The activated charcoal you can purchase from many cosmetic ingredient suppliers is often from coconut.

To transform charcoal to activated charcoal, it is heated using a special process that results in increased porosity and adsorption capabilities. (read more about the process here)

It may come as a surprise to some that there are different processes to producing activated charcoal and it is available in different shapes, with different pore structures, and even with different purities (LINK)

A gram of activated charcoal can have a specific surface area (SSA) ranging from 500 m2 to 3,000 m2. The higher the number, the better the adsorption. (LINK)

What is Activated Charcoal Used in?

I'm sure you remember a wave of activated charcoal toothpastes that swept the beauty and personal care scene a few short years ago. It seemed everyone was introducing a fashionably black toothpaste for whitening, brightening and supporting overall oral health.

I have yet to try this in one of my tooth powders, but writing about it has prompted me to add this to my to-do list.

Apart from oral care, you might find activated charcoal a useful ingredient in your

• Face Masks

• Face Cleansers

• Soaps

• Exfoliating sponges

• Hair masks

• Shampoo Bars

• Deodorants

Do Tell

Have you worked with activated charcoal? What did you use it in and what were the results?

Please share in a comment below.

More Links:

This is a short list of some of the places I visited while researching this— the ‘titles’ are not written out. Each link is instead paired with a short description of the article’s conclusion.

Internal adsorption (LINK)

Ability to Bind salicylic acid (aspirin) (internal use) (LINK)

Activated charcoal may be functional in battling bacterial toxins and aid wound healing (LINK)

Activated charcoal dressing for diabetic foot ulcers (LINK to Chrome Extension PDF file)

For oral use (inconclusive evidence of detoxification used as tooth cleanser) (LINK)

For oral use: no increased erosion of tooth enamel (LINK)

For topical use on skin: inconclusive (LINK to Chrome Extension PDF file)

Inconclusive, not FDA approved, anecdotal (LINK)

Possible benefits for skin (Medical News Today) (LINK)

Short History of activated charcoal (from a supplier of activated charcoal) (LINK)

Below is my book formulation template on how to make your own tooth powders.

Botanical Tooth Powders

What Makes Colloidal Oatmeal Colloidal?

This post is the result of numerous extensive research sessions that turned up differing answers, more questions, and a whole lot of interesting information about microns and particle sizes for colloidal oatmeal.

Who could imagine a simple grain could be such a mind-blowing skincare ingredient?

But I'm getting ahead of myself.

Get ready for a bit of a ride as we examine colloidal oatmeal, because there are a few twists and turns along the way.

The Discussion

It was discussion with some colleagues about the production process for making colloidal oatmeal that started this whole thing. Some of the participants were convinced colloidal oatmeal could only be produced via a process that entails boiling the grains in water, drying, and subsequent filtering. Others were convinced making colloidal oatmeal was merely a matter of grinding/milling oats to a certain particle size.

Spoiler alert: Everyone was right.

But before we get into the process of how colloidal oatmeal is made, we need to take a peek at the difference between colloidal oatmeal, ground oats, and oat flour.

Colloidal Oatmeal vs Ground Oats vs Oat Flour

If you grind up a portion of rolled oats (what I show you how to do on this post), your result (unsurprisingly) will be ground oats. A coffee grinder and lots of sifting will get you a fine, powdery result that's great to use as an ingredient, but even loads of sifting and grinding won't get the particle size down far enough to where you can call it colloidal oatmeal.

Go ahead and add your handcrafted ground oats to a powdered facial cleanser, face mask, or soap, but if you incorporate it into an emulsion (say, a lotion), it will in all likelihood result in undesirable lumpy bits that you won't be happy about applying to your skin.

In short: when it comes to texture, ground oats have more limited uses than colloidal oatmeal.

How Oatmeal is Processed

Colloidal oatmeal is made using whole oats and includes the bran, but has a smaller particle size than can be achieved in a home setting (more on that in a minute).

Oat flour is made by first removing the bran and then the milling the oats. By removing the bran, it's possible to achieve a much finer particle size. This is great if you want to add a bit of texturizer to your product, but inconsequential if you want all the documented skin-loving properties that colloidal oatmeal offers.

Without the bran, oats really don't have very much to offer.

So, What's in Oat Bran?

Colloidal oatmeal and ground oatmeal (from whole oats) both include the bran and therefore contain actives such as:

• Lipids (unsaturated triglycerides that help replenish the skins oils)

• Beta glucan (moisturising)

• Avenanthramides (antioxidant unique to oats)

Oatmeal with the bran is anti-inflammatory, helps soothe itchiness, and even offers skin barrier repair.

As oats also contain a small percentage of saponins, they're ideal for gentle cleansing.

The bran is – quite simply – where all the actives are.

Colloidal Oatmeal Confusion

Now that we know the difference between oat flour, colloidal oatmeal, and ground oats, one would think there was nothing more to discuss (or research).

One would think.

But while I was researching colloidal oatmeal, I kept running into this:

The INCI name for colloidal oatmeal is: Avena Sativa (oat) kernel flour

The INCI name for oat flour is: Avena Sativa (oat) kernel flour

Do you see any difference in these INCI names?

I sure don't.

It seems you can't be quite sure of whether or not you are purchasing oat flour or colloidal oatmeal just by looking at the INCI name.

Obviously, more research was in order.

The International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook defines colloidal oatmeal as “finely ground oatmeal”. The definition does not specify which species of oat is needed/desired/required.

I checked a few places to see what they had to say about colloidal oatmeal. Here are some highlights:

CosmeticsInfo.com writes:

Colloidal Oatmeal is finely ground oatmeal. It is often used to relieve minor skin irritation and itching due to poison ivy or insect bites. It can also be used as a soak, compress or wet dressing. When oatmeal is used in cosmetic and personal care products (rather than OTC skin protectant drug products), it may be called Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel / Meal.

Oat Cosmetics writes:

Colloidal oatmeal is a natural cosmetic ingredient obtained from Avena sativa (oats). The whole oat grain, including the bran layer, is milled and sieved. This results in a light cream coloured, fine powder. The bran layer of the oat contains a high proportion of natural actives including, oat beta-glucan, avenanthramides, oil and protein, all of which are beneficial for cosmetic use on the skin.

A ‘colloid’ or colloidal suspension is defined as a substance with dispersed insoluble particles suspended throughout.

Aroma Zone describes their colloidal oatmeal as such (Google translated from French):

This powder is called "colloidal" because the fineness of its particles allows it to form a homogeneous suspension in water, like milk, stable for some time.

Particle size: 44 microns

(note the micron mention - we're going to be looking at that in a tic)

I also emailed Formulator Sample Shop's founder Maggie Ghanem to ask if she could explain a bit about about colloidal oatmeal. She was kind enough to provide me with this:

Colloidal Oatmeal is made of finely milled oats from the Avena sativa plant. It consists of sugars, amino acids, lipids and fibers. Colloidal Oats are grounded, boiled and steamed. Oat grains are milled into fine powder that will produce a cosmetic agent that can be used as an addition to baths, powders, and moisturizing creams.

All in all, there's some great information here, but the mention of microns and particle size raised more questions.

We need to get a teensy bit nerdy now, but stick with me and I'll try to make it as entertaining as possible.

Microns, Nanometers, and Colloids

Pictured: the difference between a stable and unstable colloid.

The upper limit size for particles in a colloid is generally defined at 1000 nanometers. That means, each of those little green particles you in the illustration above should be under 1000 nanometers in size.

1000 nanometers is equal to 1 micrometer - commonly called a micron.

How tiny is a micron?

Well, 15 microns is the same as 0.015 mm in size (that's 1.5 hundredths of a millimeter).

Now, remember Aroma Zones product description above? It mentions a particle size of 44 microns. That is the same as a particle size of 0.04 mm (read: four hundredths of a millimeter).

Colloidal Oatmeal Particle Sizes

Now let's look at the particle sizes of colloidal oatmeal, which consists of about 20% starch particles and 80% oat-y particles.

The starch particle size is between 10 - 25 microns.

The oat-y particle size is described as 'below 75 microns'.

I know you're seeing this too.

Something doesn't fit.

The particles in colloidal oatmeal are massive! They have a diameter well above 1000 nanometers.

Colloidal oatmeal particles are too big to be classified as a colloid.

If you want to get completely and utterly technical, colloidal oatmeal isn't even colloidal.

This was pretty much my reaction to this information.

But, instead of panicking (as would be quite understandable), I decided to keep digging around and asking more questions.

And there was still the matter of production processes – which method was correct?

Finally, with the help of a very patient and gracious expert in the production of colloidal oatmeal, I found the answer (he has a special mention at the bottom of this post).

Production Processes for Colloidal Oatmeal

The Dry Way: If you have the right equipment (and no, we're not talking about a pricey super duper kitchen machine), it is indeed possible to dry-produce colloidal oatmeal. The main challenge is the natural fat content of oats (about 7%) which tends to gunk up the 75 micron sieve it has to pass through, but as long as at least 80% of the oats pass through the sieve, it's OK to label the packet 'colloidal oatmeal'. Granted, this method takes some real advanced milling equipment that not many have, but it is indeed do-able.

The Wet Way: Producers who employ 'the wet way' of making colloidal oatmeal will use a process called pre-solubilising the oat starch. This means they soak the oats (and do other magic secret proprietary things) to separate the oaty bits from the starchy bits. This process changes the structure of the starch and allows the producer to achieve an acceptable colloidal oatmeal particle size.

So, it turned out that everyone in the discussion was right.

Don't you just love it when that happens?

But wait!

There is still an unanswered question.

The INCI Conundrum

Since the INCI name is identical on both oat flour and colloidal oatmeal, how can we tell if we are buying colloidal oatmeal or oat flour?

Here's the kicker.

I don't have the answer (and still don't since this post went live in 2017!)

I can only offer this advice: buy from a trusted supplier and ask them. Be kind, but be persistent until you get a satisfactory answer. Be patient. It could take a few weeks, because sometimes the distributor (not being the producer) won't be able to answer you until they do a bit of digging and asking on their own first.

Meantime you will get the bran's skin benefits using your own handcrafted ground oats in any of the following products without having to worry about lumpiness:

• Bath bombs

• Powdered face cleansers

• Bath salt blends

• Face (or hand) masks

To illustrate the difference between ground oats and colloidal oatmeal I placed 1 gram of each in separate containers, then added 15 grams of water to each container. I swished the jars to disperse the oats and then let the jars stand untouched for about 15 minutes. Here is the result. It’s easy to imagine why a cream or lotion would get a bit lumpy if handcrafted ground oats are added instead of colloidal oatmeal.

Do Tell

Do you use colloidal oatmeal, ground oats or oat flour in your products?

More About Colloids, Avenathramide, and Oatmeal for Skincare

Colloidal oatmeal; history chemistry and clinical properties (LINK)

What is a colloidal oatmeal: Cosmetics Business (LINK)

Anti inflammatory activities of colloidal oatmeal (LINK)

Colloidal oatmeal formulations as adjunct treatments in atopic dermatitis (LINK)

Cosmetics and Toiletries: Colloidal Oat flour for skin and hair (LINK)

Colloidal Oatmeal: history, chemistry and clinical properties (LINK)

Safety Assessment of Oat derived ingredients as used in Cosmetics (LINK)

Scientific American: Creating your own colloid (LINK)

Avenanthramides (LINK)

Biological Activities, Health Benefits, and Therapeutic Properties of Avenanthramides: From Skin protections prevention and treatment of cerebrovascular diseases (LINK)

Particle Size: Wikipedia (LINK)

Micrometer Conversion scale (LINK)

A very special thanks to Cark Maunsell at Oat Services for his kind assistance and patience with all of my questions.

Want to make a quick and easy cleanser with oatmeal? The formula below (from the Working with Shea Butter book) might be fun to try.

Oatmeal and Clay No-Soap Cleanser Formula

What's in Commercial Toothpaste, and Why

For numerous years, I've been making almost all of my own personal care products. There have, of course, been exceptions but over time, the number of commercially produced products I buy has dwindled considerably.

For the longest time, toothpaste/oral care products was among these exceptions.

Just as I (used to) view deodorant, formulating toothpaste was simply one of the least sexy projects I could think of, which brought a whole lot of 'I can't be bothered' into play. Another factor (and great excuse for not getting started) was the ever-present problem of finding suitable packaging with no minimum order amount. That is an ever present challenge many small businesses have to deal with.

What finally got me started?

Researching ingredients in commercial toothpastes was the motivating factor.

Today, I'm going to share a bit about how I research ingredients using toothpaste as an example.

This Method Applies Overall

You can apply this research method to any kind of cosmetic you want to duplicate or 'dissect'. If it is a single product you are interested in duping, all you need to get started is the ingredients list of your chosen product along with a physical sample. The sample is particularly helpful if you want to approximate texture, feel, fragrance etc.

Understanding a Product Type

If you are looking to understand how a certain type of product functions (shampoo, deodorant, toothpaste, skin mist, etc), then you'll need a selection of similar products within that product category so you can compare ingredients lists (as well as actual samples).

Studying the differences (and similarities) will help you gain some understanding of how these products are put together.

As you study the ingredients lists, you'll want to identify things like

• Which are the base ingredients

• Which ingredients are texture-givers

• Which are the star ingredients

• Which function each ingredient performs in the product

After you have gotten a handle on ingredients lists and feel ready to create your own product, you'll be considering

• Which ingredients you want to include in your own formula

• Which ingredients you can source (and in which quantities)

• Whether you will need any special equipment

Dissecting Toothpaste

Let's say we want to make our own toothpaste for sensitive gums. For this research session, we're going to examine the ingredients in a commercially made toothpaste.

INGREDIENTS: Aqua, Sorbitol, Hydrated Silica, Glycerin, Potassium Nitrate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Aroma, Xanthan Gum, Titanium Dioxide, Sodium Fluoride, Sodium Saccharin, Sodium Hydroxide, Sucralose, Limonene.

As you are probably already aware, cosmetic and food ingredients are (by law) listed in descending order, so the first ingredient on the list is what there is most of in the product. In Europe, cosmetics are (by law) listed using INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredient) names.

Let's break down this (European) ingredients list.

Aqua

This is Latin and the INCI name for water. The ingredient there is most of in is toothpaste is water.

Sorbitol

This is a sugar alcohol that functions both as a binder (to give the product structure) and as a sweetener. It is available both in powder and liquid form.

Sorbitol is widely present in foods, pharmaceuticals, and cosmetics and has numerous uses. The US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) lists sorbitol as Generally Recognised as Safe (GRAS). (LINK)

Hydrated Silica

Also known as silicon dioxide, hydrated silica is a very fine sand with 'added water atoms'. It has numerous uses, one of which is 'oral care agent'. (LINK)

If you dig around a bit, there is a lot of reading material on hydrated silica to be found, but unfortunately, not all of it is reassuring. The European SCCS (Scientific Committee for Consumer Safety) published their opinion on it in a 2015 paper called "Scientific committee on Consumer Safety: Opinion on silica, hydrated silica and silica surface modified with alkyl silicates (nano form)".

They concluded that information, documentation and testing

"is inadequate and insufficient to allow drawing any firm conclusion either for or against the safety of any of the individual SAS material"

(LINK)

ResearchGate shows an excerpt of the conclusion here (LINK)

Even though the SCCS paper is from 2015, I have not had any luck finding anything more recent on hydrated silica, so it would appear the jury has been out on this ingredient for quite a while.

Glycerin

Glycerine is the second most common cosmetics ingredient after water. This multifunctional substance can be sourced from plants or animals, but is generally plant sourced as this is the more viable option for mass production.

Glycerin is a clear, tacky syrup-like substance that functions as a humectant - helping preserve moisture. In toothpaste, it 'provides an extended flavour release' (LINK)

Potassium Nitrate

This is a salt compound that functions as a de-sensitiser. It is stated to

'coat your teeth with a solution that reduces pain and sensitivity'

(LINK )

For a clue as to how much is used in the total formula, this page mentions 5% (LINK)

This study confirms the 5% (LINK)

The FDA requires that toothpastes containing this ingredient display a 4-week warning on the label (do not use longer than 4 weeks).

Here is another toothpaste (also with 5% potassium nitrate) that warns of a 4 week use limit (LINK)

WEbMd lists toothpastes with this ingredient as medications and posts a similar warning (LINK)

Question: How many people do you think read the fine print and would notice this warning?

This rather vital piece of information didn't come to my attention until I started researching toothpaste ingredients.

(insert harrumph of disapproval)

Cocamidopropyl Betaine

This is a surfactant that is commonly used in shampoos as a primary or secondary co-surfactant and is categorised as 'mild'. Many makers of natural cosmetics are familiar with this ingredient for numerous cleansing products.

In toothpaste, cocamidopropyl betaine provides foaminess and helps spread the paste in the mouth.

Aroma

This is perfume/flavor. Because limonene is also present (further down the list), we might assume the flavour includes a limonene-containing ingredient such as a citrus oil of some type (LINK)

Xanthan Gum

This is a commonly used stabiliser and thickener for numerous types of products. It is sourced from bacteria commonly found on some vegetables (cauliflower, cabbages and rutabagas) which is processed (fermented) before being dried and ground into a powder.

Xanthan is referred to as the most commercially successful example of a microbial exopolysaccharide.

Approval for food use was given by the FDA in 1969 and xanthan gum now has GRAS status. In the EU, xanthan gum is classified as a thickener and is identified by the E-number E415.

Xanthan gum is present in a multitude of foods and cosmetics. (LINK) (LINK)

Find more here (LINK)

and here (LINK)

Titanium Dioxide

This is a mineral-based pigment that makes the product white. Titanium dioxide is widely used in pharmaceuticals, cosmetics, foods and other industries.

I wrote a post on the possible dangers of this ingredient here on the blog (LINK)

Sodium Fluoride

This is an inorganic compound used widely in toothpaste and as an additive to some water sources. Fluoride has been believed to prevent cavities, but is now being questioned by numerous sources that point to this ingredient as both controversial and possibly damaging to health. (LINK )

Despite having been used for decades, there doesn't seem to be any standard of dosage/usage amounts.

"Criteria for adequate, high, or low levels of fluoride in the body have not been established."

LINK

Yet fluoride continues to be added to drinking water in many countries.

"In total, 377,655,000 million people worldwide drink artificially fluoridated water. This represents 5% of the world’s population."

LINK

Interestingly, countries that do not fluoridate their water show a comparable amount of caries, which could indicate it does not function to battle caries.

Countries that do not fluoridate their water have also seen big drops in the rate of caries. (LINK)

Finally, it looks like there is a neurotoxicity report that has been blocked but is now set to be made public due to the work of the Fluoride Action Network (LINK) - a non-profit organization and official project under the American Environmental Health Studies Project (LINK)

There is much more to be found on this ingredient if you want to get busy researching.

Sodium Saccharin

This is the solid form of saccharine. Sodium saccharin is not linked to any benefits for oral health and is probably present in this toothpaste purely to sweeten the taste.

Sodium Hydroxide

This is lye (also called caustic soda). In toothpaste, sodium hydroxide is used as a pH adjuster to bring the product to a more mouth-friendly, neutral pH.

Saliva has a normal range of 6.2 - 7.6 with an average pH of 6.7

Tip: pH adjusters are present in very small amounts - just enough needed to adjust a product to the desired pH.

Sucralose

This is a semi-synthetic sweetener made from (wait for it) sugar! LINK LINK

Sucralose is marketed as an artificial sweetener and is present in many drinks and foods labelled 'sugar free' (which I find a bit interesting considering it is sourced from sugar).

Between 400-1000 times sweeter than sugar, sucralose is characterised as nonnutritive (as it has no calories).

Even though the no calorie bit sounds great, there are concerns about this ingredient and how it impacts health. LINK

Sucralose has only been on the market since 1999 where it was approved by the FDA for use in 15 different food categories. LINK

The method of production a closely guarded secret as sucralose is patented and produced by one company only: Tate & Lyle LINK

Sucralose is under study for possible impacts on cardio metabolic health (LINK) and there are concerns about how it impacts the gut microbiome LINK

While all of this is food-related, sucralose in toothpaste would perhaps not create the same impact as it does when consumed. But discovering this information inspired me to study food labels to discover just how widely this ingredient is used. I was admittedly disturbed to find it almost omnipresent in sugar-free soft drinks.

Limonene

This is a component of many flavours and fragrances. Limonene is present in bergamot, and citrus essential oils.

Welcome to a Thousand Rabbit Holes

As you have probably noticed reading through this list, studying ingredients will often send me on a (much) longer research mission with many more paths to follow than expected.

I suppose it could be viewed as both a curse and a blessing to go into this much detail, but I find great satisfaction in accumulating knowledge about ingredients, their production processes, history of use, and other applications.

It admittedly ends up being a bit of an encyclopedia of information to store away, but in my experience, a crucial bit of information otherwise filed away in the furthest corners of my mind always seems to pop up from memory exactly when it is needed. It has happened numerous times over the years.

In short, I have never found an occasion to regret researching anything.

The Research Made Me Do It

As it turned out, the more I researched toothpaste ingredients, the more determined I became to create my own dental care solutions. There were just too many questionable, possibly undesirable, and even possibly unsafe ingredients in commercial toothpastes for my personal comfort level.

Research is also the reason I stopped dyeing my hair years ago, but let's leave that one for another post.

Thanks for reading!

Do Tell

Did you ever research something that caused you to make a change of formulating plans?

Below: if you want to learn how to compose your own tooth powders, the formulation template/e-book below might be of interest.

Botanical Tooth Powders

Kpangnan Butter for Skin and Hair

That bit of butter up there may not look like much, but it's a treasure trove of hair and skin-loving goodness.

While on a quest for the ideal butter for lotion bars a few years ago, kpangnan literally showed up unannounced on my doorstep (as a small sample packet from a supplier). The timing was perfect – it was immediately incorporated into a small test batch that performed so well that I fell quite in love with it and have been using it ever since. Let’s see, that makes it about 10 years now.

Let's have a look at how what this butter has to offer and find out why it made my lotion bar ingredients list of winners.

Say it With Me

Even though kpangnan butter doesn't have much going for it in the memorable name department, it's actually much easier to pronounce than it than it is to spell.

It's pronounced 'Pan-ya'.

Kpangnan (Botanical name: Pentadesma butyracea) is also known as Kanga, Kanya, Painya, and Akpoto. The tree is native to Central and Western Africa, and the butter is made from the seeds of the (edible) berries that grow on it. Unsurprisingly, kpangnan is also known as the 'African Butter Tree'.

Production of the butter is not unlike the production of shea butter (which is entirely by hand). Kpangnan butter does not require as many steps as shea, but is still entirely hand-produced in local communities.

Depending on where (and how) it is made, kpangnan butter can vary in color - from a creamy white to a rich yellow. It is available both as refined and unrefined. I have only ever worked with raw, unrefined so am unable to offer any input on how the refined butter is. I have however noticed some suppliers offer a 'carefully refined' butter (which may or may not be market speak). The butter pictured above is unrefined and from Aroma Zone.

The Treasure Inside

Kpangnan butter has a content of healing and anti-inflammatory components that makes it ideal for application (but also consumption).

It is also anti-oxidant and is so soothing for skin that it is recommended for sufferers of eczema.

Here are some of the goodies you'll find in kpangnan butter:

• Vitamin f

• Omega 6

• Oleic acid (44%)

• Stearic acid (45%)

• Tocopherol (vitamin e)

• Stigmasterol

That last one may not be as known as the others. Let’s take a closer look.

Stigmasterol is Pure Plant Power

A precursor to vitamin d, Stigmasterol belongs to a group of plant sterols. It has been showing some impressive health-inducing properties in scientific studies (a few links below). Mind you, all of the studies are based on consumption of stigmasterol - not from applying it topically.

Good For Hair and Good Everywhere

Kpangnan is widely recommended for hair care - particularly coils, kinks and curls. Some years ago, while developing a series of products specifically for textured hair, I repeatedly discovered that ingredients recommended for kinks and curls all seemed to work beautifully on my skin. Kpangnan was definitely one.

Kpangnan butter is lovely to work with and a great addition to solid skin care (think lotion bars). It has a relatively neutral scent too (a plus). Because it is not very greasy to the touch, kpangnan butter could even be described as powdery feeling.

Texture-wise, I would place it somewhere in between cocoa butter, mango butter and shea butter.

Kpangnan can be used straight up - right out of the packaging - as a smoothing, non-greasy skincare product. Although it may not work for everyone, I’ve found a small application of kpangnan butter has the ability to put an immediate stop to itchiness on my (ridiculously sensitive) skin.

INCI name: Pentadesma Butyracea Seed Butter

Do Tell

Have you ever worked with this butter? Which product did you use it in, and how did you like working with it?

More Info on Stigmasterol and Kpangnan

Stigmasterol: a phytoesterol with potential osteoarthritic properties (LINK)

PubChem's breakdown of stigmasterol (LINK)

Chemical analysis of kpangnan (LINK)

LisaLise Newsletter

Sign up for the LisaLise Newsletter to stay in the loop about ingredients and processes. You’ll also get formulating tips & tricks, free formulas and how-to’s and loads of natural cosmetic inspiration.

Book of Natural Balms - Volume 1

Dandelions and Skincare - What Does Science Say?

When I started researching dandelion’s possible uses for skincare some years ago, I was pretty impressed at what this common plant has to offer.

Useless weed?

Ahem.

Think again.

Even science has declared dandelions 'warrant further study'.

(Science usually says this kind of thing when it finds evidence that traditional remedies aren’t all fairy tales and fantasy). I seem to be seeing that happening more and more these days.

And the truth is, there is a wealth of hidden treasure in this multifunctional and bountiful plant.

Shall we take a closer look at dandelions?

Dandelions Have Healing Properties

Science agrees the chemical composition of Taraxacum officinale (that's the botanical name for dandelion) makes it helpful and useful for numerous medical conditions and ailments.

Dandelions are

• Antioxidative

• Anti-inflammatory

• Antimicrobial (to some degree)

• Diuretic

• Tonic

All this medicinal magic from a 'weed' most homeowners are busy trying to banish from their gardens.

Extraction Methods are Up for Discussion

The most up to date scientific articles I have found on dandelions seem to be focused on examining which plant part has the most to offer in the way of actives.

Some studies are focused on the root while others are studying plant parts and their constituents in correlation to what time of year they are harvested before extraction.

Extraction methods are also being studied to determine which is most efficient. Ethanol extraction seems to be getting the most attention in the scientific community, although there are a few scientific souls looking into oil extraction. Check the links below for more information.

LisaLise Soothing Dandelion Balm Experiment

Pictured here: side-by-side infusions in 2 different oils. On the left, dandelion blossoms in sunflower oil and on the right, leaves-and-stems in sweet almond oil.

I combined the 2 finished macerations with a few other other plant-based soothing ingredients in a test balm (pictured at the top of this post).

This is a bit typical of the way I work - a combination of research, trying out ideas, and experimentation.

What started me on this dandelion research was a comment about dandelions for pain relief. Admittedly, the commenter was taking dandelion internally (by the drop as a tincture), but the idea of trying it in topical application was the basis for the infusions and a foot balm for tired aching feet.

You know when you have been on your feet all day and your feet start yelling at you to sit down? That kind of tired and aching.

I got such a great response from my extensive test team (foot left and foot right) that I have done many batches since and have even handed out a samples to a few willing testers.

Dandelion TIP

If you want to get max bang for your buck, try doing oil extractions with the alcohol intermediary method using all plant parts. I split up the parts of the planet so I can also combine oils.

Do Tell

Do you use dandelions in any of your skincare products? Please share what your experiences are in a comment below!

More About Dandelions: Nerdy Stuff

Dandelion (taracum officinale and T Mongolicum), Erik Yarnell, Kathy Abascal (LINK)

Taraxacum Officiale herb as an Antiinflammatory Medicine, American Journal of Advanced Drug (LINK)

Taraxacum- a review on its phytochemical and pharmacological profile (LINK)

Anti inflammatory evaluation of the methanolic extract of taraxacum officinale in LPS stimulated human umbilical vein endolethial cells (not oil extracted, but still interesting) (LINK)

Topical herbal Therapies and Alternative and Complementary Choice to Combat Acne (LINK)

Taraxacum: an overview (Science Direct) (LINK)

Qualitative and Quantitative analysis of phytochemicals of Taraxacum Officinale (LINK)

If you want to make a few balms with me, please check out the ebook below.

Book of Natural Balms - Volume 1

About Aluminium and Antiperspirants

Today we're looking at a popular antiperspirant ingredient that has (understandably) caused both confusion and concern in many.

The ingredient is aluminium chlorohydrate.

Let's start with the first part of that name: aluminium (spelled as aluminum and aluminium but it's the same substance).

Aluminium is Everywhere

Aluminium is the third most naturally abundant element in the environment (after oxygen and silica). It is present almost everywhere – in food and water as well as all kinds of consumer products.

Aluminium is mined from bauxite ore. We can thank the French geologist from Les Baux – Pierre Berthier – for discovering that aluminium was predominant in this ore in 1821 (and I know you've already guessed why the ore is named bauxite). Bauxite is fairly easily mined because it is almost always found near the surface of the terrain.

Aluminium Compounds

Aluminium is more than the metal we all know as packaging, foil wrapping, metal siding, and framework for light structures. It is also available in other forms, such as aluminium salts (or compounds).

Aluminium compounds are a water-soluble group of aluminium complexes, and aluminium chlorohydrate is composed of hydrochloric acid, water, and aluminium.

Aluminium compounds are commonly found in commercial antiperspirants. (REF) and one of the most commonly used is our star ingredient today: aluminium chlorohydrate.

How Aluminium Salts Work in Antiperspirants

Aluminium salts are quite effective antiperspirants and work in 2 ways:

1. By reacting with the electrolytes in sweat. This reaction causes a gel-like substance to form and plug the duct of the sweat gland. The plug prevents the gland from excreting sweat until the natural sloughing off of skin cells under the arms removes it.

2. By interacting with the keratin fibrils (read: very fine fibers) in the sweat ducts – again forming a plug that prevents sweat from reaching the surface of the skin.

While it is an excellent antiperspirant, the concerns about this ingredient have been from fear of absorbing it through use.

What Science Says about Aluminium Chlorohydrate Absorption

In 2001, aluminium chlorohydrate absorption was tested and the study concluded:

"Results indicate that only 0.012% of the applied aluminium was absorbed through the skin. At this rate, about 4 microg of aluminium is absorbed from a single use of ACH (aluminium clorohydrate) on both underarms. This is about 2.5% of the aluminium typically absorbed by the gut from food over the same time period. Therefore, a one-time use of ACH applied to the skin is not a significant contribution to the body burden of aluminium." (REF)

This sounds promising doesn't it?

I thought so too at first – especially since this study has been quoted numerous times.

But let's look at what the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) had to say after examining it in detail:

"The shortcomings of this study are that it was not done in accordance with good practice (GCP) and it was performed using only 2 volunteers." (REF)

Testing only a one time application on only two volunteers?

Hmmm.

Most folks who use antiperspirants use them daily - not just one time. And 2 people doesn't seem like a representative group, does it?

The Journal of Inorganic Biochemistry published an article entitled Aluminium, antiperspirants and breast cancer in 2005 that stated:

"Aluminium is known to have a genotoxic profile, capable of causing both DNA alterations and epigenetic effects, and this would be consistent with a potential role in breast cancer if such effects occurred in breast cells". (REF)

The article continues:

"the effects of widespread, long term and increasing use remains unknown" (REF)

Find the full article here

If you go digging around bit, you'll find there are numerous studies and papers to be found on this topic. As it happens, the SCCS has examined a great number of them and in 2014 concluded the following about absorption of aluminium through skin:

"The available studies are of poor quality and have not been carried out according to the current requirements. In the absence of any better data to estimate skin penetration of aluminium, the SCCS considers that aluminium absorption after dermal exposure is still very poorly understood. A conclusion on internal exposure to aluminium following cosmetic use cannot be drawn." (REF)

And finally:

"The authors conclude that these observations do not formally identify aluminium as a breast carcinogen, but challenge the safety ascribed to its widespread use in underarm cosmetics."

Find the full paper here.

In May of 2022, the SCCS submitted their latest assessment, Safety of Aluminium in Cosmetics - Submission III which concluded the following

"The SCCS considers that aluminium compounds are safe when used

a. in non-sprayable product categories at the maximum levels indicated in Table 4;

and

b. in sprayable antiperspirant products, provided that the maximum percentage of particles with 10 μm diameter does not exceed 20% of the total aerosolised particles

The SCCS could not assess safety of aluminium compounds in sprayable applications other than antiperspirant."

They were also asked to consider safety levels when aluminium exposure came from a combination of sources and offered the following conclusion:

"The aggregate exposure to aluminium from cosmetic and non-cosmetic sources may exceed safe limits."

In short, there is no clear answer. Tallying up the combined exposure from food, pharmaceuticals and cosmetics may exceed safe levels of exposure.

Find more and download the SCCS submission here.

It (still) looks like more studies need to be undertaken, and judging from the SCCS’s comments, quality studies need to be undertaken.

Meantime, I can only conclude with this:

You should always choose and use what is right for you.

You: Would you use it, Lise?

Me: I prefer not to.

More about Aluminium, Allergies, and Antiperspirants

Antiperspirant and deodorant allergy test results:

"The most commonly occurring allergen in 107 tested deodorants and antiperspirants was fragrance - perfume." (LINK)

Agency for Toxic Substances and Disease Registry on Aluminium:

"An average American adult consumes about 7-9 mg of aluminium every day through their food." (LINK)

Human health risk assessment for aluminium, aluminium oxide and aluminium hydroxide (LINK)

Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety SCCS : The SCCS opinion on the safety of aluminium in cosmetic products (2014) (LINK)

A preliminary study og the dermal absorption of aluminium from antiperspirants using aluminium-26 (LINK)

Aluminium zirconium tetrachlorohydrate gly (another aluminium compound used in antiperspirants and allowed by the FDA at up to 20% of a formulation) (REF)

Frequent use of underarm cosmetic products (containing aluminium) may lead to an accumulation of aluminium in breast tissue (LINK)

FDA Code of Federal Regulations for Aluminium Chlorohydrate (LINK)

---

The book below (available in both Spanish and English) shows you how to make your own all natural preservative free deodorants with a shelf life of up to 6 months.

Make Your Own Preservative Free Natural Cosmetics With 21 Ingredients

Haz tus propios productos cosméticos naturales sin conservantes con 21 ingredientes