Hand-Stirred, Stable Creams and Lotions

Some say it is impossible to make a stable hand-stirred emulsion. For anyone who has been unsuccessful in their attempts, it must feel that way, but I’m betting you’ll discover it is not nearly as difficult as you might have imagined. In this book, you’ll find tried and true emulsion-making stirring methods and my best tips to help you get the perfect result every time.

The formulas in this book span several forms of ‘hand-driven agitation’ with a range of ordinary and easily available tools – from simple spatulas and manual whisks of all sizes to hand-held (stick) blenders with different attachments. To give you a maximum of options, several of the formulas have been created for 2 different stirring methods (for example: manual whisk and stick blender).

If you are just starting out making emulsions, you will not need to invest in expensive stirring equipment. Every formula in this book can be made using manual stirrers.

Ingredients Overview

The ingredients overview section provides insight and information about the different ingredients used in these formulas. Key ingredients are featured on a data page with extra tips and information.

Here is (a) common name followed by the INCI name of the featured emulsifiers, co-emulsifiers and stabilizers in this book

• Cetearyl Alcohol (INCI: Cetearyl alcohol)

• Cetyl alcohol (INCI: Cetyl alcohol)

• Lanolin (INCI: Lanolin)

• Olivem 1000 (INCI: Cetearyl olivate, Sorbitan olivate)

• Polawax (INCI: Cetearyl alcohol, Polysorbate 60)

• Sucragel AOF (INCI: Glycerin, Prunus amygdalus dulcis oil, Sucrose laurate, Citrus aurantium dulcis fruit water)

• Vegetal (INCI: Cetearyl alcohol, Cetearyl glucoside)

• Xanthan Gum (INCI: Xanthan gum)

• Xyliance (INCI: Cetearyl wheat straw glycosides, Cetearyl alcohol)

And there’s even more.

The Preservatives Toolkit

This book features a ‘toolkit’ of 5 functional broad-spectrum preservatives that gives you a range of options from which you can select your preferred preservation system. The Notes & Tips section of each formula provides a section with suitable choices/substitutions along with extra tips on what to consider when selecting a preservative.

Each preservative has a data page that includes extra tips and information.

Here is (a) common name followed by the INCI name of the featured preservatives in this book

• Benzoate and Sorbate Complex (INCI: Aqua, Sodium benzoate, Potassium sorbate )

• Cosgard (INCI: Benzyl alcohol, Dehydroacetic acid, aqua)

• Plantaserve E (Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin)

• Naticide (INCI: Parfum/fragrance)

• Phenonip P4 (INCI: Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Propylparaben, Butylparaben)

Learn How to use Lanolin as an Emulsifier

Almost everyone knows about the softening and protective properties of lanolin as a skincare ingredient, but how about using it as an emulsifier? This book features a longtime favorite of my own formulas - one I have made a plethora of times over the years in dozens of different variations. The emulsifier is the same skin-loving emollient that is popular for sensitive, dry and cracked skin: lanolin.

This unique ingredient is one of very few exceptions to my self-imposed rule of working with predominately plant-based ingredients. Lanolin’s multifunctional magic simply cannot be duplicated.

The lanolin-emulsified formula in this book is a rich, skin soothing balsam for extremely dry skin. It’s made to help soothe and smooth cracked heels, gardeners hands, and even functions as a deeply moisturizing body and face product. You’ll also find tips on how to customize the formula to your needs.

Preparation and GMP Guidelines

So many of my students have asked me how they can implement good manufacturing practice (GMP) in a home setting. There’s a section on setting up your workspace, sanitizing tools, and loads of tips on how to create your GMP protocol.

Guides, Batch Calculation and More

Included in this book are calculation guides and tips on working with percentages and weight. You’ll learn how to calculate batches and find inspirational input on what to consider when choosing containers and packaging.

Features in An Introduction to Natural Cosmetic Emulsions - Hand-Stirred Lotions and Creams

• 178 pages

• Ingredients Overview Section

• 6 Emulsifiers

• Preservatives ’Toolkit’ with 5 preservatives

• 10 formulations with step by step instructions

• 3 essential oil blend formulas

• Fact sheets and ingredient profiles on all preservatives and emulsifiers

• Detailed descriptions of stirring techniques

• Section on proper GMP in a home setting

• Tips on batch calculation and working with percentage and weight

• Richly illustrated

• Notes & Tips pages with suggestions for substitutions for every formula

• Where to Source Ingredients section

• Glossary of Terms

Scroll down for the entire table of contents

Please note: This is a non-refundable digital product.

Formulator, Author and Teacher

Lise Andersen has been creating and developing plant-based skin and haircare products for many years – from special-order bespoke cosmetics to custom formulations for cosmetics companies. Her work also includes developing and teaching online courses about formulation at Tisserand Institute.

This book came about as an extension of my work on the Emulsion Essentials course - launched in 2020 at Tisserand Institute. While both the course and book complement each other, they are not interdependent. I hope you will enjoy making, personalizing, and using the products in this book as much as I have developing them.

Lise Andersen

Table of Contents

INTRODUCTION

• Cosmetics vs Cooking

• The Definition of Hand Stirred

WHAT MAKES AN EMULSION

• Getting Oil and Water to Mix

• Surface Active Agents

• Types of Emulsions

• The Phases of a Cosmetic Formula

INGREDIENTS OVERVIEW

• Emulsifiers

• Co-Emulsifiers, Thickeners & Stabilizers

• Waters Oils and Fats

• Preservatives

• Active Ingredients

PREPARATION

• Good Manufacturing Practice

• Creating Your Cosmetics Making Workspace

• Working With Percentage and Weight

• Containers and Packaging

• Equipment List

METHOD DESCRIPTIONS

• Heated Phase

• Cool Down Phase

• Stirring Methods

• Measuring and Adjusting pH

• Transferring to Containers

FORMULAS

• Almond & Rose Body Cream

• Coconut Body Milk

• Herbal Ocean Lotion

• Buttercream Eye Serum

• Hempseed & Lemon Balm Serum

• Rich Rose Foam Cream

• Herb-Infused Emulsion

• Chamomile Cleansing Milk

• Lavender Cleansing Cream

• Golden Skin Soothing Balsam

SOURCES

• Glossary

• Links to Ingredients

• Suppliers

• Links to more Information

• Find more by Lise Andersen