How to Make a Plant Saponin Cleansing Bar
Lise
Not long ago, I showed you how to make your own conkers powder. Today, we're going to use the powder to make a cleansing bar in 2 different versions.
For the purists, I've designed a 100% plant-based item that combines conkers with hops and shikakai to gently cleanse both hair and skin. That’s it pictured above.
Spoiler alert: do not expect any foam or lather from the purist version. It will cleanse effectively and gently, but expect to do a bit of rubbing to release the actives.
The following formula is for a single bar of 55 grams.
LisaLise's Purist Plant Saponin Cleansing Bar
| Phase | Ingredient | Grams |
|---|---|---|
| A | Hops Powder | 5.0 |
| A | Conkers Powder | 21.0 |
| A | Shikakai Powder | 5.0 |
| A | Multani Mitti Clay | 4.0 |
| A | Skimmed Milk Powder | 1.0 |
| B | Vinegar Tincture of Choice | 11.0 |
| C | Floral Wax of Choice | 1.0 |
| C | Cocoa Butter | 7.0 |
Method
Weigh up ingredients
Melt phase C ingredients over water bath, then remove from heat
Place phase A ingredients in bowl and stir to combine
Add phase B and stir together/work together by hand (wear protective gloves)
Drizzle in melted phase C ingredients and work together to form dough.
Press into mold or shape by hand
Chill until firm (30-60 minutes), then unmold and allow to set/dry thoroughly (2-3 days)
Ingredient Substitutions
The hops powder can be replaced with marshmallow, mallow, or purple hibiscus powder (red hibiscus powder will color the water and risks staining - purple/blue hibiscus does not stain).
If you don’t make or use vinegar tinctures, feel free to replace the tincture with distilled white vinegar, coconut vinegar, or apple cider vinegar.
The floral wax is mainly added for fragrance but does also add a bit of structure to the bar. It can be left out if you prefer. Simply replace the wax with 1 gram (extra) cocoa butter.
The multani mitti clay can be replaced with rhassoul clay.
Cocoa butter can be replaced with cupuacu butter if you prefer.
Usage Tip
Because this formula is preservative free, store the bar dry and allow it to air dry thoroughly after each use.
Cleansing Bar with Surfactants
Below is a comparative photo of the purist bar (after a several uses) and the (unused) bar with surfactants.
If you're a die-hard fan of bubbles and prefer easy application with minimal rubbing, you may want to make the version below.
Because this version contains concentrated (dry) surfactants, you may find this bar is more suitable as a shampoo bar than a facial cleanser. While some people are fine with soap on their face, not everyone does well with it, so you'll have to do your own trials and testing to see what you prefer.
The following formula is for a single bar of 55 grams.
LisaLise's Cleansing Bar with Surfactants
| Phase | Ingredient | Grams |
|---|---|---|
| A | SCI (powder or needles/prill) | 5.0 |
| A | Conkers Powder | 21.0 |
| A | Shikakai Powder | 5.0 |
| A | SCS (powder or needles/prill) | 4.0 |
| A | Skimmed Milk Powder | 1.0 |
| B | Vinegar Tincture of Choice | 11.0 |
| C | Floral Wax of Choice | 1.0 |
| C | Cocoa Butter | 7.0 |
Method
Weigh up ingredients (wear a protective dust mask when weighing up and handling dry surfactants!)
Melt phase C ingredients over water bath, then remove from heat
Place phase A ingredients in bowl and stir to combine
Add phase B and stir together/work together by hand (wear protective gloves and keep your protective dust mask on until the mixture is moistened)
Drizzle in melted phase C ingredients and work together to form dough.
Press into mold or shape by hand
Chill until firm (30-60 minutes), then unmold and allow to set/dry thoroughly (2-3 days)
Ingredient Substitutions
If you want to use an even gentler surfactant than the listed ones, try replacing the SCS with Surfalux/Iselux (INCI: Sodium lauroyl methyl isotheonate).
If you don’t make or use vinegar tinctures, feel free to replace the tincture with distilled white vinegar, coconut vinegar, or apple cider vinegar.
The floral wax is mainly added for fragrance but does also add a bit of structure to the bar. It can be left out if you prefer. Simply replace the wax with 1 gram (extra) butter.
The shikakai can be replaced with rhassoul clay.
Cocoa butter can be replaced with cupuacu butter if you prefer.
Usage Tip
Because this formula is preservative free, store the bar dry and allow it to air dry thoroughly after each use.
Do Tell
I’d love to hear form you if you make either or both of these versions. Please feel free to drop a comment below.
Want to make your own collection of naturally balanced shampoo bars? The book below shows you how and includes a section on making your own vinegar tinctures.
