The Versatility of Formulating Bi-Phase Products

I’ve gotten some great feedback as well as questions from folks since my latest e-book on Bi-Phase Cleansers came out. Thank you all for your input! A few people have asked if I had any additional bi-phase publications in mind (read on) but I’ve also gotten questions along the line of ‘what does bi-phase mean?’

That’s a perfectly relevant question, so let’s start with what bi-phase means.

In ‘formulator speak’, cosmetics are made with phases. Now, I suppose the term could have been steps, sections, or anything else, but as it happens, phases won.

How Phases Work

If you look at a formula for any cosmetic, each phase is described as a step to be followed as part of the process of making that product.

Some cosmetic products consist of only one phase. These are often products that are cold-mixed (mixed together at room temperature). Some examples: bath salts, (some) exfoliating scrubs, skin mists, body oils etc.

Some cosmetics are made with numerous phases.

A cream, lotion or any kind of emulsion consists of both a water phase (with water soluble ingredients) and an oil phase (with oil soluble ingredients). Each phase is dealt with separately until they are ready to be combined into the finished product.

And as we all know, oil and water don’t voluntarily mix, so every lotion or cream has an ingredient (or 2) to help the oily bits mix with the watery bits and stay mixed.

How Bi-Phase Works

Any bi-phase product (cleanser, eye-makeup remover, serum) consists of two visible phases: one with oily ingredients and one with watery ingredients.

What makes a bi-phase product stand out from most other oil-and-water containing cosmetics is there are purposefully no ingredients added to bind the oils with the waters, so the 2 phases will stay separated unless they are shaken together.

Bi-phase products are meant to be shaken together just before use, where the oils and waters will mix just enough to be dispensed from the bottle. As soon as the bottle is left to stand, on the oils and waters immediately separate.

And that’s where the formulating fun comes in.

Color Play

The visual experience is an important part of creating any bi-phase product. Apart from choosing ingredients for their efficacy, the formulator must also consider the way the 2 phases are going to look – both when they are separate as well as when they are shaken together.

If you have a red oil phase and a blue water phase, you’re going to get a cool shade of purple when you shake the product until it magically separates again when you put the bottle down.

Pictured above are a few of the bi-phase cleansers I created while writing the book. It was really hard not to get carried away with the color combinations! There are so many possibilities for both oils and waters that I ran out of containers long before I was finished playing working.

Easy to Make - Even Bi-Phase Serums

Bi-phase products have additional advantages: not only are they are easy to make, but there are endless ways of customising them. Depending on the ingredients you choose, a bi-phase product can be anything from an eye make up remover to a cleanser - and even a face serum.

Because the Bi-Phase Cleanser book is a formulation template, it already contains the information needed to create any bi-phase product - even a serum.

What separates a cleanser from a serum? The choice of ingredients! A serum will in all likelihood contain pricier and more luxurious oils and waters, but can also feature any actives you may choose to include.

So, although it could be tempting to publish more e-books about bi-phase formulating, I fear I would be repeating myself with a book on bi-phase serums, but perhaps a single formula of some type could be considered. Hmm, that’s not a bad idea.

Thanks for your questions and inspiration!

Do Tell

Have you ever made a bi-phase product? What did you make? Please share in a comment below.

Bi-Phase Cleansers

Make Your Own Botanical Tooth Powders - a New Publication

I’ve been working flat out on a different kind of publication concept and it’s all because of you. I wanted to be able to give you something you’ve been asking me about (repeatedly) for years: 100% customisable formulations.

(insert double take)

Yes, really.

It’s been a bit of a challenge and has taken me quite a few trials and tests (and a bit of tribulation), but I hope you’ll agree this new format makes it possible to jump straight in and get creating and making with locally available ingredients - regardless of where you are on the globe - and (almost) regardless of skill level!

After debating with myself what to call this concept and format, I finally decided on ‘Formulation Template’. (I know it may not seem like the most original name on the planet, but it describes the function pretty well, don’t you think?)

Pictured above is my very first.

What’s a LisaLise Formulation Template?

In order to offer you 100% customisable formulations, a set of ‘formulating rules’ needed to be created: a Formulation Template. Think of it as a specially designed framework that allows you total freedom with ingredients choices and enables you to make an endless variety of possibilities - as long as you stay within the framework.

This whole concept came about as a result of the many questions I have gotten over the years about ingredient substitutions.

• “I can’t get ingredient X where I live. What else can I use?”

• “Ingredient Y costs a packet where I live! Is there an alternative option?”

• “Can I substitute ingredient Z without messing up the stability?”

I’ve been there numerous times and think I can safely say I understand the frustration of not being able to source everything listed in a given formula.

Now, (Almost) Anything Goes

Having a Formulation Template in hand frees you of the frustration of having to substitute ingredients. Now you can start with ingredients you CAN source and build your formula from there.

Formulation Templates are created so you can customise to your hearts desire.

A Formulation Template consists of

• Main Formulation Template

• Detailed Guideline for Using the Template to Create Your Own Formulas

• Ingredients Information

• Formulating Notes & Tips

• Formulation Examples

• Bespoke Formulation(s)

Now, Put Your Formulating Power Where Your Mouth is

To kick off this new type of publication, I wanted to share some brand new subject matter – something I have never written about (publicly) before. It also happens to be one of my own personal care favorites because it allows for endless customisation possibilities: tooth powders.

You: Tooth powder, Lise? But is homemade tooth powder safe and effective enough?!

Me: Yes, and then some.

Botanical Oral Health

For generations, we have all been led to believe that commercially produced toothpaste (and other oral care products) are better, safer, and more effective than anything handcrafted.

That is, to put it diplomatically, a misunderstanding.

The world is full of powerful botanicals that can not only deliver superior function for overall oral health, but also target specific issues such as gingivitis, cavities, plaque formation, and bad breath.

Most of these herbs (and additional ingredients) boast a long history of traditional use that has been passed down through generations.

And here’s the best part: the majority of these botanicals and additional ingredients are readily available around the globe.

Happily, modern science has affirmed the efficacy of numerous natural ingredients for oral health with documented studies, many of which are listed in the (included) references section.

No Foam = No Function?

Here’s a little reveal from this publication. Foam is not required to cleanse teeth and gums properly. The detergents commonly added to commercial toothpastes are not there to clean the teeth, but are only present to help spread the paste in the mouth.

The ingredients section in Botanical Tooth Powders explains more.

Ready to Get Busy?

If you’re interested in learning a bit more about making your own botanical tooth powders, please visit this page.

LisaLise Newsletter

Sign up for the LisaLise Newsletter to stay in the loop about ingredients and processes. You’ll also get formulating tips & tricks, free formulas and how-to’s and loads of natural cosmetic inspiration.