Choosing Natural Preservatives - a Free E-book

The most frequent question I get from my students, readers and followers is “Which is the best natural preservative?”

I wish there was a short and simple way to answer this, but there isn’t.

Choosing a preservative is always formula specific and can even change if as little as one ingredient is substituted.

This free e-book is a compilation of manufacturer information on some preservatives that are generally accepted as natural. Some are COSMOS approved, some are ECOCERT approved, and some have no classification.

I have also included a few tips on what to consider when choosing a preservative.

I hope this will be useful as a starting point and help you in your research.

Click the picture above or the button below to download the book.

Happy reading!

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Parabens Come From Plants

That title is true, you know. Parabens are naturally occurring in many plants. Like the one pictured here: Japanese honeysuckle (INCI: Lonicera japonica).

Paraben preservatives have been around and used in food, cosmetics, and pharmaceuticals for almost 100 years.

In more recent years, many natural cosmetics companies have been advertising their products as paraben-free, yet listed Japanese Honeysuckle extract on the ingredients list.

Hmmm.

I'm not sure whether to be annoyed with them for lying about their products being paraben-free or to be annoyed about parabens being publicly vilified for so long they must be hidden behind a plant extract name.

The truth is, parabens are a part of nature and as such, we ingest and apply them regularly.

There’s More Than One Paraben

Note the S. Parabens aren't just one ingredient. There are several parabens.

These are the most commonly used parabens in cosmetics:

• Ethylparaben

• Methylparaben

• Propylparaben

• Butylparaben

But there are even more.

The following parabens were approved for cosmetics earlier, but have (since 2014) been banned from use in the EU:

• Isopropylparaben

• Isobutylparaben

• Phenylparaben

• Benzylparaben

• Pentylparaben

And (believe it or not) there are even more parabens, but we're sticking to the cosmetics and food related ones in this post.

Where the Paraben Name Comes From

The name paraben is a condensation of the name Para-hydroxybenzoic acid. Parabens are esters of para-hydroxybenzoic acid.

What this means: para-hydroxybenzoic acid is chemically changed (reacted) by adding different types of alcohol to it (also called esterified).

Parabens in Nature

In nature, you will find parabens in abundance. They are naturally present in carrots, cocoa, vanilla, strawberries, and grapes. Methylparaben is found in blueberries, where it acts as a natural antimicrobial agent. You'll also find parabens in olives, coconut, ylang ylang, black currants, and peaches.

There's even more, but I'm sure you get the drift.

Even though they are naturally occurring in many botanicals, paraben preservatives are not produced by extracting plants. That would be far too pricey a process to be viable. The paraben preservatives for cosmetics and foods are made in labs using manmade chemicals.

Is this Scary?

According to some, it gives cause for concern. According to others, it doesn't.

Science doesn't agree on every point and is continually studying and reassessing, so I'm going to give you a few of the different (and more current) statements I have been able to find.

Cosmeticsinfo.org writes:

"Para-hydroxybenzoic acid (PHBA) occurs naturally in many fruits and vegetables, such as cucumbers, cherries, carrots, blueberries, and onions, and is also formed naturally in your body by the breakdown of certain amino acids. The parabens used in cosmetics are identical to those found in nature, and are quickly eliminated by the body."

(LINK)

Robert Tisserand, author of Essential Oil Safety, wrote an article in 2009 entitled The Paraben Parable where he states

"The paraben “scare” was based on the fact that parabens were found in the breast tissue of women with breast cancer, even though no causal association was established. Presumably milk might be found in cancerous breast tissue too, but does that mean that milk causes breast cancer? No, the fundamental reason for banishing parabens was that the popular press decided that parabens very likely caused breast cancer."

Read the entire article here.

Dene Godfrey, author of Preservation and Preservatives is quoted in a 2009 article in Cosmetics Design saying that much of the bad press about parabens stems from a study published in 2004 that was "seriously flawed". (LINK)

The Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) confirmed (after yet another review of) the safety of parabens in cosmetics in 2013 that, dosed as recommended, parabens are still safe for use in cosmetics. (LINK)

Some of the more recent studies are more cautious. This 2021 paper 'Parabens as chemicals of emerging concern in the environment and humans: A review' states

"..recent research indicates that parabens may act as endocrine-disrupting chemicals (EDCs) and thus, are considered as chemicals of emerging concern that have adverse human health effects."

(LINK)

The most recent (2021) information from the (European) Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) (specifically on propylparaben) concludes that it comes down to a question of dose:

"The available data on propylparaben provide some indications for potential endocrine effects. However, the current level of evidence is not sufficient to regard it as an endocrine disrupting substance, or to derive a toxicological point of departure based on endocrine disrupting properties for use in human health risk assessment."

(LINK)

The Amended Safety Assessment of Parabens as Used in Cosmetics, 2020 states:

"The Panel concluded that 20 of the 21 parabens included in this report are safe in cosmetics in the present practices of use and concentration described in this safety assessment when the sum of the total parabens in any given formulation does not exceed 0.8%."

(LINK)

In contrast, the USA continues to use parabens that have been banned in the EU since 2014. This article from 2019 by Oliver Milman in the Guardian states:

“Generally, the EU has got it right. In the US, we have a strong favouritism towards companies and manufacturers, to the extent that public health and the environment is being harmed. The pendulum has swung in an extreme way and it’s really going to take a general awakening by the public.”

(LINK)

Conclusion: Too Much Confusion

It's no wonder many have steered clear of parabens over recent years. Some parabens are completely banned in some countries and allowed in others.

They continue to be 'lumped together' as a single thing which makes the question of 'paraben safety' confusing for everyone. Which paraben are we talking about, and at which usage rate? I can understand how some might find it easier to just say no to all of them as it takes a serious amount of research to stay up to date with the latest findings. And since paraben preservatives have been around for almost 100 years, there's enough information and studies to get stuck into!

I have worked with parabens for numerous years and would have to dig deep in both my notes and memory to find a single occasion where they have failed in a formulation. I don't recall that they ever have. There's no denying that consistently stable and able preservatives makes formulation work even more enjoyable - who doesn't love a stable workhorse preservation system?

That said, I have been so immersed in Hurdle Technology in recent years that I rarely use any 'added' preservatives in my formulations any more.

All Natural Please

In general, I am a fan of all natural everything, so please allow me to share the recipe for a refreshingly tasty all-natural paraben-rich concoction.

Paraben Smoothie

• 20 Strawberries

• 1 cup Coconut Milk

• 2 Peaches

• Handful of ice cubes

Whiz in a blender until smooth and enjoy topped with a dollop of strawberry ice cream.

Enjoy!

More About Parabens

Paraben's bad press are based on flawed science: Dene Godfrey cited in Cosmetics Design (LINK)

CosmeticInfo.org on parabens (LINK)

L. Cassiday, The preservative wars, AOCS Feb 2013 (LINK)

Y. Naseer, There is nothing wrong with parabens, Illumination 2021 (LINK)

D. Godfrey, Cosmetic Formulation, Chapter: Preservation and Preservatives, 2019 (LINK)

Chemical Safety Facts.org on Parabens (2022) (LINK)

Want to avoid preservatives altogether in your cosmetics?

The bundle offer below shows you how to get busy using Hurdle Technology in your own cosmetics.

Self Preserving BUNDLE

How to Make a Glycerite with Fresh Cucumber

Today we’re revisiting one of the first glycerites I shared on the blog and a kickstarter to my passion for making and using glycerites with fresh foods in my cosmetics. I’ve pepped up the original pictures and added a few extra tips, so let’s get started!

Why Glycerites?

Glycerine extracts (or glycerites) are useful alternatives for folks who may not want to use tinctures (alcohol extracts) in their products, but glycerites also have additional advantages. Glycerine (also spelled glycerin) is an excellent humectant that doubles as an ideal solvent for many botanical constituents.

In short: a glycerite is glycerine with 'added botanical power' – the perfect addition to your lotions, creams, skin tonics and mists, serums, cleansers, and more.

Let’s make a fresh cucumber glycerite!

Water to Glycerine - How Much?

If you follow classic herbalist glycerite making instructions, you’ll find a common ratio of water to glycerine is 50/50, so for this batch, we're going to take our inspiration from there.

Fresh cucumber is about 96% water, so the percentages for this batch are

• Glycerine 50.0 %

• Cucumber 49.4 %

• Preservative 0.6 %

Calculate the Batch

I am making a relatively small batch here (200 grams), so my batch amounts look like this.

• Glycerine: 100.0 grams

• Cucumber (organic): 98.8 grams

• Preservative (I used benzyl alcohol): 1.2 grams

Method

1. Sanitize your workspace, containers and equipment and pop on protective gloves

2. Peel and slice the cucumber (I peel even organic cucumbers - but that's just me. Feel free to include the peel if you like. Remember to thoroughly wash/rinse the cucumber before slicing if you include the peel)

3. Weigh cucumber

4. Weigh and add glycerine

5. Weigh and add preservative

6. Give the mixture a stir

7. Place lid on container

8. Keep container away from direct light in a not too warm area

9. Agitate daily for 5-10 days

Straining

If you used cucumber slices as I have here, you’ll notice that the slices start looking a bit shrivelled. That’s a good sign that your glycerite is ready for straining.

Before straining, be sure your equipment and containers are sanitised. (the funnel you are using is equipment too!)

1. Place a funnel into a container and line the funnel with a filter. Coffee filters are fine but you could also use a finely woven piece of muslin/cotton. In this picture. I am using a doubled-up piece of silk jersey.

2. Strain the mixture

3. Bottle

4. Label

Storage and Use

Store your glycerite cool and dark and use in your cosmetics within 6 months of making.

Glycerites can (and will) last much longer if made and stored properly, but I generally recommend using a handcrafted glycerite within 6 months of making.

Why?

Because when it is used as an ingredient in a cosmetic, that cosmetic is expected to have a certain shelf life.

Enjoy!

Want more glycerite making information? The book below might be just the thing you’re looking for.

The Art of Making Glycerites for Cosmetics

Natural Preservatives That Aren't

Today, we're going to take a look at an article I happened across a while back in a natural beauty e-zine. The description promised to 'reveal which natural ingredients could function as preservatives for homemade beauty products'.

This sounded interesting.

And it was.

I was impressed at how much misinformation could be packed into one article. There wasn't a fact in sight.

Everything was so incorrect, I started looking for information to contact the publisher. But there was no address, email or phone anywhere to be found. Then I noticed the author was listed only by first name: 'Sharon'.

This was enough to raise not just one, but a whole series of red flags.

Let's have a look at each of Sharons 'all natural, easily available preservatives', shall we?

Beeswax is Not a Preservative

Beeswax adds structure to products such as lip balms, and can also be used to thicken creams and lotions. In anhydrous products (where beeswax may be present), there is no need of preservative.

In the food industry, beeswax is sometimes be used to coat cheeses - effectively sealing out the air and thereby providing protection against ageing.

And all of this is great, but it doesn't make beeswax a preservative.

On its own, beeswax has a pretty long shelf life, but having a long shelf life doesn't make it a preservative either.

Sorry Sharon, beeswax does not belong on this list.

Vitamin E Oil is Not a Preservative

The very name of this ingredient is a bit misleading. I think the author meant vitamin E, and not vitamin E oil (which can be a carrier/fatty oil with added vitamin E).

Vitamin E (tocopherol) is an antioxidant, not a preservative.

Antioxidants help retard the rancidity of plant oils and fats.

Antioxidants do not stop bacterial growth or keep pathogens at bay.

Antioxidants are not preservatives.

Sharon my dear, neither Vitamin E nor Vitamin E oil can be classified as preservatives.

Rosemary Oil is Not a Preservative

I am in doubt as to whether the author meant Rosemary Essential Oil, Rosemary Oleoresin, Rosemary Leaf Extract, or Rosemary Antioxidant.

Regardless - none of these are preservatives.

Rosemary contains antioxidants – which is not the same as being a preservative.

Rosemary antioxidant is - as the name reveals - an antioxidant and can be used to help slow down the rancidity of oils (in the same way as vitamin E).

In food, rosemary has a history of use for helping meat stay fresh longer, but that still doesn't make it a preservative for use in DIY cosmetics - regardless of its form.

Sorry Sharon - rosemary 'oil' is not a preservative.

Essential Oils are Not Preservatives

The author listed all of the following essential oils as preservatives:

• Thyme

• Oregano

• Lavender

• Lemon

• Rosemary

• Benzoin

• Eucalyptus

• Clove

• Sage

• Tea tree

While it is correct that essential oils are unpreserved and have a relatively long shelf life (especially when stored optimally), that doesn't make them preservatives. This would be like claiming sunflower oil or clay can be used as preservatives.

Although some essential oils have antimicrobial properties, no essential oil can be used as an effective preservative without exceeding a safe level of use by up to several thousand percent. In short, trying to preserve a product using essential oils would make the product unsafe to use.

Oh dear Sharon, this claim is not only dead wrong, but also potentially dangerous.

Grapefruit Seed Extract is Not a Preservative

I can kind of forgive the author for this one as there are some suppliers selling grapefruit seed extract as a preservative. The problem is, they aren't being up front about what's actually in their product.

Grapefruit seed extract doesn't have any antimicrobial function on its own. It needs the addition of preservatives in order to function as a preservative.

Read that again: you have to add preservatives to grapefruit seed extract in order for it to preserve anything.

"The efficacy of grapefruit seed extract as a preservative has been shown to be due to the addition of preservatives such as benzalkonium chloride, triclosan and/or methylparaben." (REF)

Analysis of some commercially sold grapefruit seed extracts show that they are adulterated with the addition of preservatives (REF)

This product should be on a buyer beware list as it is necessary to thoroughly research what you are buying and whether or not you can legally claim your product is 'all natural' if you want to use grapefruit seed extract in your cosmetics.

The Time I Tried it as a Stand-alone Preservative

Years ago, one of my suppliers offered an 'all new natural preservative' (they had given it another name, but the label revealed it was grapefruit seed extract). I ordered some to test it out.

Within a month, my supplier issued a warning to all of their customers. It appeared that the new preservative was non-functional.

The week before, I had made a small test batch of cream that had been placed on my observation shelf. Directly after reading the warning, I opened and checked one of the jars. There was a thick green growth covering a third of the surface.

That was my first (and maybe last) experience with grapefruit seed extract as a 'preservative'.

Sorry, Sharon, but you totally struck out. Nothing you wrote was correct. I can only hope nobody read your article.

I debated with myself whether or not to add a link, but decided there was no reason to contribute to the spread of misinformation.

Have a safe day.

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PS: If you want to create your own self preserving cosmetics, this bundle offer might be just the thing.

Self Preserving BUNDLE