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Filtering by Category: Glycerites

How to Make a Strawberry Glycerite with Preservative

Lise

Today, we’re making strawberry glycerite.

You: Lise, it’s not summer, and there are no strawberries available.

Me: It’s summer in Australia right now, so somewhere on the planet, this is a timely post.

Important: Use the ripest, plumpest, freshest (organic) strawberries available to you for optimal results. If that means you have to wait for summer, then wait. Trust me when I say it will be worth it.

Because we are using fresh strawberries (which are about 92% water), there is no need to add any water.

Ingredients

  • Fresh strawberries

  • Glycerine

  • Preservative (I used benzyl alcohol)

Water to Glycerine Ratios

One of the most common ratios of water-to-glycerine for an extract with preservative is 50/50. It’s easy to work with too.

I generally start by seeing how much preservative is recommended, choose a dosage a little higher than middle, then calculate ‘backwards’ to find how much glycerine and strawberry to add. I used benzyl alcohol in this extract which has a recommended max dosage of 1%. But because glycerine is ‘aiding’ the preservative, I chose to use less than max: 0.6%. I made this pictured batch some years ago and it performed beautifully so if I were to repeat this today, I would use the same amounts.

Strawberry Glycerite with Preservative

Ingredient %
Preservative 0.6
Organic Strawberries 49.7
Glycerine 49.7

Method

  1. Sanitise the jar and equipment

  2. Place the jar on a scale and set to 0

  3. Slice or chop the strawberries

  4. Add strawberries to jar to desired weight

  5. Set scale to 0

  6. Weigh up glycerine to desired weight

  7. Weigh and add preservative

  8. Place lid on jar (TIP: If your lid isn’t in pristine condition, place a protective layer of food-safe paper or plastic between the lid and jar)

  9. Place jar out of direct sunlight at room temperature. I find putting a tea towel over the jar works well.

  10. Gently agitate the jar once a day for 7-10 days. The strawberries will start to look a little ‘spent’ and ‘tired’ when the mixture is ready for straining.

You Might be Wondering…

If we are using a preservative, can we add it after straining instead of before infusing?

Yes you can. To do so, weigh up the amount of strained liquid and then calculate how much preservative to add.

Why I don’t do it this way.

I prefer adding preservative at the beginning because the water to glycerine ratio is lower than when making a self-preserving glycerite (read: the preservative is working while the infusion is ongoing), and I just find it easier (and makes for less math) all around.

Straining

  1. Sanitise your equipment

  2. Place funnel in receptacle

  3. Place filter/ lining in funnel (1-2 layers of clean muslin, cheesecloth, or suitable paper filters)

  4. Pour mixture into funnel and allow to strain

  5. Decant into bottle

  6. Label and date the bottle

  7. Store the extract cool, and use within 6 months.

Do Tell

Are you a fan of strawberries in your skincare? Please share in a comment below.

Are you a member of LisaLise Club? If not, you may want to check out what it has to offer you by clicking the picture below.

Club Highlights

We’re welcoming the new year with all kinds of great new content! Click the picture below to check out what the club has to offer you!

Glycerine, Glycerites and Preservative Power

Lise

Several of you have asked me about the preservative power of glycerine.

Can glycerine really function as a stand-alone preservative in a glycerite?

This is an excellent question.

I do wish the answer was more straightforward though.

The answer is "yes, but it depends."

Depends on What?

The need for adding preservative to a glycerite not only depends on the raw materials, but also how much you use of each component.

You: (groan) Really, Lise? Seriously? Does this have to be so difficult from the get-go?! Surely there is a simple answer!

I feel your frustration.

But you have to remember that glycerites can be made with a gazillion (if not a trillion gazillion) different things:

  • dried herbs

  • fresh herbs

  • dried whole flowers or petals

  • fresh flowers or petals

  • dried fruits

  • fresh fruits

  • fresh veggies

So there's really not an easy answer to this question. I wish there was, but then life would just be far too simple, and life – apparently – doesn't like being simple when it comes to glycerites.

Why Life Isn't Simple When it Comes to Glycerites

During my research of glycerite-making methods, I have come across numerous different recommendations of how much glycerine to use to ensure proper preservation of the end product.

During all this time, I have never come across a single written (or online) source that could recommend percentages for a fresh food glycerite.

Not. A. Single. One.

I did keep notes of the recommendations I did find, which mostly focused on using reconstituted dried herbs. According to those, each of the following percentages is 'the norm' for how much glycerine to add to a glycerite to ensure proper preservation:

  • over 25%

  • 50%

  • minimum 50%

  • over 55%

  • 75%

  • 80%

Quite a span, there, don't you agree?

Many of these sources also recommend a 'use by' period which ranges from 6-24 months.

Every one of the above mentioned sources have struck me as serious, professional, and experienced (some links below). As glycerites have roots in herbalism, many were referring to extracts meant for consumption.

The Difference between Glycerites for Consumption and for Cosmetics

A glycerite for consumption is generally stored in one place at a steady temperature until it is added directly to food/drink and consumed.

On the other hand, a glycerite for cosmetic use may find itself in any kind of temperature and humidity (bathroom, handbag, pocket etc) in the end product. It is also opened and dipped into numerous times (with a possibility of contamination from the user) and still expected to have a shelf life that surpasses anything meant for consumption.

How Much Preservative?

My very first post on glycerites was a cucumber extract (link to updated post) which included the addition of 0.5% preservative.

That amount was inspired from a glycerite making guide on cosmetic supplier Aroma Zone's website which calls for 50% glycerine, reconstituted dried herbs and the addition of 0.6% broad spectrum preservative. (LINK)

For the cucumber glycerite, I chose to use 0.5% preservative and a glycerine percentage of 'just around 50%'.

'Just around 50%'? Is That Accurate Enough?

Nope.

'Just around 50%' is not accurate enough.

With fresh fruit and veg, the water-to-glycerine ratio gets tricky. To add to the 'fun', fruits (and many vegetables) contain sugars which can be an additional challenge.

If you don't know the exact water (and sugar) content, it's pretty much impossible to calculate exact percentages of anything.

How does one measure the exact water (and sugar) content of a fresh strawberry?

One cannot (if one also wishes to use it in a glycerite).

The only way to approach the water question is to find the average water content of said fruit (or veg), then work from there.

But average numbers are not exact numbers.

So.

To know for absolute sure how much – if any – preservative needs to be added to your glycerite, you need to do some calculating – followed by a bit of testing.

For Real?!!

You: (groaning and eye rolling) Math and then testing, Lise?! Seriously?! Could this get any worse? Why isn't there an easier way?

I totally feel your pain.

Really.

I've already spent quite a bit of time trying to find the answers. And if there was an easy, all-in-one, simple-dimple answer to this question, I would hand it to you on a silver platter.

But there isn't, so I can't.

But there's something I can (and will) do – provide you with a general guideline, and that is this:

Glycerine will greatly reduce the possibility for bacterial growth when it exceeds 50% percent of the solution.

You still have to do the calculating on the material you are using and go from there.

From what I have been able to find in the time I have been working with glycerites, the information on the preservation power of glycerine in glycerites for cosmetics is pretty much uncharted territory.

In my book The Art of Making Glycerites for Cosmetics, there are guidelines to help you do the calculation, but they are still guidelines. If I had tested every possible raw material on the planet, I could have given you a chart with set percentages, but that would probably take me longer to get through than anyone has the patience to wait for (even me).

I'll conclude with a few updated helpful tips to help you on your glycerite-making way.

LisaLise's Glycerite Making Tips

  • Measure every ingredient accurately – and only by weight

  • Work clean (keep your work space clean, sanitise equipment etc)

  • Use prime raw materials (discard anything that isn't fresh or perfect)

  • Keep copious notes

  • Label everything you make (date, ingredients, and everything else that will help you recreate – or be able to pinpoint why you don't want to recreate – your formula

  • Save a LABELLED, DATED portion of your formula for observation – even long past your 'use by' date. This is by far one of the most educational things you can do for yourself, and will require a bit of storage space as you continue to make glycerites.

Finally, don't forget to have fun with it – even the math part.

You can totally do this.

How do I know?

Cuz I just know.

Do Tell

How long do your glycerites last? Please share in a comment below!

References

John Kabara, Donald S Orth, Preservative free and self preserving cosmetics and drugs, Priciple and Practice, 1996, 45-69 (LINK)

Preserving Syrups, The Pharmaceutic and Compunding Laboratory, UNC Eshelman School of Pharmacy (LINK)

Cech, Richo, Making Plant Medicine, 2000 (LINK)

Gladstar, Rosemary, Medicinal Herbs: A beginners Guide, Lemon Balm Glycerite, 160 (LINK)

Gladstar, Rosemary, Family Herbal Guide to living life with energy, health and vitality, 2001 (LINK)

Green, James, The Herbal Medicine Maker's Handbook - A Home Manual, p 185-192 (LINK)

Wynn, Susan, Fougere, Barbara, Veterinary Herbal Medicine, p225 (LINK)

Fetro, Charles W, Avila, Juan R, The Complete Guide to Herbal Medicine, p8 (LINK)

Preservative for Biological Specimens , US Patent, 1978 (LINK)

How to Make a Glycerite with Fresh Cucumber

Lise

Today we’re revisiting one of the first glycerites I shared on the blog and a kickstarter to my passion for making and using glycerites with fresh foods in my cosmetics. I’ve pepped up the original pictures and added a few extra tips, so let’s get started!

Why Glycerites?

Glycerine extracts (or glycerites) are useful alternatives for folks who may not want to use tinctures (alcohol extracts) in their products, but glycerites also have additional advantages. Glycerine (also spelled glycerin) is an excellent humectant that doubles as an ideal solvent for many botanical constituents.

In short: a glycerite is glycerine with 'added botanical power' – the perfect addition to your lotions, creams, skin tonics and mists, serums, cleansers, and more.

Let’s make a fresh cucumber glycerite!

Water to Glycerine - How Much?

If you follow classic herbalist glycerite making instructions, you’ll find a common ratio of water to glycerine is 50/50, so for this batch, we're going to take our inspiration from there.

Fresh cucumber is about 96% water, so the percentages for this batch are

  • Glycerine 50.0 %

  • Cucumber 49.4 %

  • Preservative 0.6 %

Calculate the Batch

I am making a relatively small batch here (200 grams), so my batch amounts look like this.

  • Glycerine: 100.0 grams

  • Cucumber (organic): 98.8 grams

  • Preservative (I used benzyl alcohol): 1.2 grams

Method

  1. Sanitize your workspace, containers and equipment and pop on protective gloves

  2. Peel and slice the cucumber (I peel even organic cucumbers - but that's just me. Feel free to include the peel if you like. Remember to thoroughly wash/rinse the cucumber before slicing if you include the peel)

  3. Weigh cucumber

  4. Weigh and add glycerine

  5. Weigh and add preservative

  6. Give the mixture a stir

  7. Place lid on container

  8. Keep container away from direct light in a not too warm area

  9. Agitate daily for 5-10 days

Straining

If you used cucumber slices as I have here, you’ll notice that the slices start looking a bit shrivelled. That’s a good sign that your glycerite is ready for straining.

Before straining, be sure your equipment and containers are sanitised. (the funnel you are using is equipment too!)

  1. Place a funnel into a container and line the funnel with a filter. Coffee filters are fine but you could also use a finely woven piece of muslin/cotton. In this picture. I am using a doubled-up piece of silk jersey.

  2. Strain the mixture

  3. Bottle

  4. Label

Storage and Use

Store your glycerite cool and dark and use in your cosmetics within 6 months of making.

Glycerites can (and will) last much longer if made and stored properly, but I generally recommend using a handcrafted glycerite within 6 months of making.

Why?

Because when it is used as an ingredient in a cosmetic, that cosmetic is expected to have a certain shelf life.

Enjoy!

Want more glycerite making information? The book below might be just the thing you’re looking for.

How to Make a Fresh Blueberry Glycerite

Lise

This is an updated version of my original post from 2016.

Working with fresh fruits for cosmetic extracts (particularly blueberries) can be a bit tricky, but with careful attention to a few specific things (which I am going to share with you here), you'll be enjoying your own fabulous blueberry glycerite in under a week.

Let’s get busy!

LisaLise's Blueberry Glycerite Formula

Ingredient Percent
Glycerine 50.0
Fresh blueberries 49.4
Preservative 0.6

Calculate your batch size. I have made a relatively small portion here.

Prep Tips

Blueberries can be sneaky. Sometimes a berry getting ready to go wonky will hide in the bunch. Since we don't want to add any wonky or even semi-wonky berries to our lovely glycerite, every single berry should be carefully examined. This may seem a bit tedious, but it will help ensure a successful result.

Use only firm, plump, pristine berries that are bursting with blueberry deliciousness (and keep a few extra on the side for scientific taste testing purposes)

Cutting each berry in half will increase the surface area while allowing you to carefully examine every berry.

Method

  1. Prepare your workspace (sanitize the jar and your equipment)

  2. Wash berries thoroughly in demineralised water and allow to dry

  3. Inspect and slice berries

  4. Weigh berries

  5. Weigh and add glycerine

  6. Add preservative

  7. Place lid on jar

  8. Keep jar at room temperature away from direct sunlight (I usually pop a clean dishtowel over my brews so they are easy to check on)

  9. Agitate the jar once a day for 5-7 days

At the top of this post is a peek at the jar shortly after I put on the lid. One cannot help but fall in love with the color, can one?

Fast forward 6 days.

Straining the Glycerite

Straining any glycerite can be an exercise in patience if you do not have any special straining equipment, so here are a few tips to help ease the process. I call this the double manual filter process.

You'll need

  • Container

  • Funnel (or 2)

  • Filters (shown here are paper coffee filters but you can use layers of tightly woven cheesecloth or muslin cloth as well)

  • Protective gloves

  • Bottle

Be sure your funnels, container and equipment are all sanitised before you start. Don a pair of protective latex or nitrile gloves, place the funnel over the container and line it with a filter.

Prepare a second filter (so it can be slotted into place with one hand)

Pour the mixture into the funnel.

Scoop out and discard any excess floating berries.

The liquid dripping though the filter will slow down after a while.

When that happens, gently gather the edges of the filter and lift it up while placing a new filter (or second funnel with filter) into place. You now have a handful of filter number 1 - containing mostly berries and some glycerite.

Ever so gently, squeeze the filter you are holding to extract as much liquid as possible.

Discard the fruit-laden filter.

You now have a setup that looks like this: a filter full of mixture that is slowly straining.

Key word: slowly.

They say patience is a virtue.

Prepare to be virtuous.

Here's how:

  1. Place your filter/container setup in an undisturbed place.

  2. Cover it loosely with a 'foil tent' or other material that will keep dust, bugs, etc away from the mixture.

  3. Wait.

  4. Wait some more.

  5. Wait even longer.

  6. If your glycerite stops dripping altogether, repeat the filter replacement process.

  7. When the glycerite has finished straining, transfer it to your bottle.

  8. Date and label the bottle.

  9. Store your glycerite dark and cool.

Time Factor

This particular glycerite was strained using solely coffee filters and took a total of 5 and a half hours to filter through. It would in all likelihood have gone faster with some of the above mentioned cloth options.

TIP: If you use cloth filters, be sure the cloth is clean before use (wash new fabric before use as it is most often chemically treated)

How Long Does a Glycerite Last?

I have glycerites over 5 years old that are still good. That said, if you are using your glycerite in a cosmetic that is expected to have a reasonable shelf life, I recommend using it within 6 months of making.

Enjoy!

Blueberry fun facts

  • Blueberries have an average water content of around 84%

  • 100 grams of blueberries is about 57 calories

  • Blueberries have a natural content of methylparaben

Do Tell

Do you make glycerites? Which products do you use them in?

PS: The book below is a complete guide to making your own glycerites for cosmetics and even shows you how to drop the preservative and make your own self preserving glycerites.

Why Get Started Making Plant Extracts for Cosmetics

Lise

Learning how to make your own extracts for cosmetics is both super easy and at the same time not as easy as it might appear. The basics can quickly be outlined, but it takes dedicated practice to master.

I have been making all kinds of herbal extracts (specifically for cosmetics) for many years, but would still not call myself a master. Maybe I will in a few more years or so, but meantime, I am constantly learning and discovering new plant synergies, refining my methods and trying different raw materials.

In truth, learning how to make extracts of all kinds has proven to be as involved, multifaceted, and fascinating as learning how to formulate natural cosmetics.

All You Need is to Want To

While making extracts could be described as 'a journey with no end in sight', it really is easy to get started – it doesn't require much more than raw desire (and no special equipment is needed).

And it can't be dismissed that having the ability to compose and produce your own botanical extracts with confidence is truly empowering.

So where does one begin?

There are countless fabulous raw materials to work with - from botanicals to spices to fresh vegetables and fruits. There are numerous solvents to choose from: oil, vinegar, alcohol, glycerine, water – and it's even possible to combine solvents in different ways.

There is also an entire range of method options; from a simple infusion that is ready within an hour to an overnight slow-heat maceration to a several-step multi-medium process that takes weeks.

Which is best? Or most correct?

They might all be.

It depends entirely on what you want to achieve

  • an all natural colorant for your emulsion?

  • a powerful antioxidant for your face serum?

  • a natural fragrance for your balm?

  • a skin soothing addition to a shower gel?

All of these (and much much more) are possible with the right extract.

Can you see what I mean by a journey with no end in sight?

The Perfect Extract Starts in Your Mind (and Notebook)

Allow me to give you a tip about getting started: It's much easier to approach extract making if you know the intended end use before you start pulling out equipment and raw materials.

When you have a clear vision of what you expect your extract to do and (where you expect it to function), you will have laid the groundwork for which solvent, production method, and raw materials to focus on.

Example: a (water-soluble) glycerite is going to be a much better match for a skin mist than an anhydrous product that would require additional ingredients in order to be incorporated into the formulation.

Why Don’t You Tell me Everything?

One of the reasons I wrote the book Get Started Making Plant Extracts for your Cosmetics was to offer an overall introduction to the vast world of extract making - because it is truly an area where the possibilities are endless.

Not long ago, a customer wrote and asked me why there aren't there any specific amounts listed or detailed method instructions in the book.

It's a perfectly understandable question.

One would imagine it shouldn't be all that much effort to include an easy peasy guideline for each type of extract as the book includes a description of different solvents.

Here's what I replied:

"When it comes to making extracts (regardless of whether they are oil, water, vinegar, glycerine, alcohol or mixed medium), ingredient quantities are going to vary greatly and will always depend on which raw material (as well as the condition of the raw material), which solvent(s), and which extraction method or combination of methods is used. A 'general guideline' with listed amounts would have to include so many exceptions-to-the-rule that it would quite simply not be useful.

I am guessing it would take me a few years to write a comprehensive guide to extract making for cosmetics (and that probably wouldn't even cover everything)."

She wrote me back that she 'appreciated learning that there was more to this than meets the eye' and 'that's probably why so many of the things that you try on the internet turn out with mixed results'.

Explaining the complexities of extract making without making everything seem too arduous is a bit of a balancing act I still struggle with, because making extracts for cosmetics it is not difficult when you are confident about what you're doing. The best news? It doesn't take too terribly much effort to get to the point where you do feel confident.

Want to Get Started?

If you are an absolute beginner to extract making and want an overview, this e-book is for you.

If you want to get started with an overview as well as get busy making right away, this e-book bundle offer is for you.

Additionally, you will find specific listed amounts, calculation charts, and detailed information on the complete process of some different extract types in the books below.

I’d like to extend my kind gratitude to Lorena for inspiring me to write this article.

LisaLise Books With Specific Extract Formulations

The shampoo book has a section on making vinegar tinctures (that are used in the formulas in the book)

The book below has a section on making vinegar tinctures (used in the formulas in the book), and it’s also available in Spanish here

The bath book has a section on making aromatic powders (used in the formulas in the book)

The balm book has oil infusion and (some) glycerine infusion instruction for the formulas in the book

The glycerites book is a complete guideline to making glycerites

Glycerine Front and Center

Lise

For years, glycerine was a staple in my stockroom – functioning as a useful go-to but mainly a 'background’ type of ingredient.

But that all changed when I started getting serious about making my own glycerites.

While still a staple in my stockroom, glycerine has now made its way to a front and center position in many of my formulations.

Well, let's face it: one can't help being motivated to develop glycerite-rich formulations when ones stock refrigerator is packed to the hilt with an array of beautiful fresh choices.

New to Glycerites?

A glycerite is – quite simply – an extract made by infusing botanicals (flowers, fruits or even vegetables) into glycerine. You could also call a glycerite a glycerine extract (and some do).

That lemony mixture you see in the picture above is a glycerite in the process of being strained (and if we had sniff buttons on our devices I would invite you to click so you could smell the delicious lemony-fresh fragrance).

Today we're going to take a quick peek at glycerine and how making and using glycerites has became an ongoing passion that shows no sign of fading - even after all these years.

Glycerine = Glycerin = Glycerol

Glycerites are easy and fun to make and one of the best parts is you only need 2 ingredients!

The main medium for making a glycerite is known by several names: Glycerine and Glycerin (some people leave out the last letter - both spellings are correct). Glycerine is also called Glycerol.

This clear, syrup-like liquid (sweet to the taste and sticky to the touch) is categorised as non-toxic and has multiple uses in a range of industries. Glycerine used in foods, pharmaceuticals, cosmetics and more.

As a barely-scratch-the-surface kind of list, you'll find glycerine as a component of

  • Food syrups

  • E-cigarette liquid

  • Vaccines

  • Anti-freeze

  • Bio-diesel

  • Medicine

  • Candy

  • and this list could go on and on...

Glycerine for Sensitive Skin

Glycerine soap is often recommended for sensitive skin. And the naturally higher content of glycerine in artisan-made soap could be why people with very dry skin prefer using handcrafted soap.

Glycerine Fun Fact

Glycerine functions beautifully as a 'water-look-alike' in photography and film studios because it has the ability to stay where it is put until the perfect shot is 'in the can'. (Now you know how they can 'capture' that perfect moment of dewy-freshness under a million hot lights that would make real water evaporate in seconds).

Glycerine Front and Center

In cosmetics, glycerine is a great addition to tonics, lotions, creams, serums, gels and more. To date, it has generally been recommended to keep the total amount of glycerine at under 10% of a formula to avoid tackiness and an unpleasant feel.

The fabulous news is: if you replace glycerine with a (handcrafted) glycerite, this amount can be increased greatly.

Not only does a glycerite (generally) have a less tacky feel, it includes the water-soluble components of the infused botanical, so it's glycerine 'with an extra dimension'.

Check this post for a free formula that incorporates a whopping 30% glycerite and isn't the least bit tacky feeling.

Check more about glycerine in this post

Do Tell

How do you use glycerine in your products?

PS: The bundle offer below shows you how to make your own beautiful glycerites and then get busy with them as star ingredients in a series of natural cleansers.