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LisaLise offers online education of natural plant-based cosmetics via e-books and courses

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A look inside the LisaLise natural cosmetics lab with free formulas, DIY how-to's, ingredients tips, sneak peeks, and more.

Filtering by Category: Skincare

Breakfast Ingredients Face Mask

Lise

Let's do something a little roots today. I figured it's about time we revisited this face mask which consists of ingredients you probably already have in your kitchen. In fact, you may have even enjoyed some of them for breakfast.

Never ever considered making your own skincare? Well, guess what, I hereby pronounce this your day to get started.

Let's put breakfast on our faces!

(Just to set your mind at ease, no eggs or bacon are involved).

Breakfast Ingredients

This super moisture boosting face mask calls for

  1. Ripe banana

  2. Natural yoghurt

  3. Ground oats (see this post to make your own ground oats)

  4. Raw honey

I know what you're thinking:

  • Does it really boost moisture?

  • Can it make skin feel deliciously smooth?

  • Will it leave your face feeling like you've gotten an instant face lift?

I don't blame you a bit for thinking all that, because one wouldn't imagine ordinary breakfast foods could do anything of the sort.

But to answer your questions:

Yes to all of the above.

Here's why putting these particular foods on your face can be beneficial for your skin:

Yoghurt

has a natural content of lactic acid and offers gentle exfoliation (REF - this blog)

Oats

are all around fabulous for skin in more ways than you can count (seriously -- try counting them -- you'll be busy until next week)

Banana

adds both moisture and an instant glow. (Some banana fans claim there are skin lightening properties which can help hyperpigmentation, but I need to do some research on this before I can be sure if this particular claim has any substance to it)

Raw Honey

Honey has so much to offer skin that even science can't deny it. Truth: I'm a bit of a honey addict. (do a google search for 'LisaLise honey' and you'll see what I mean)

Ready to get busy putting breakfast on your face?

Excellent!

This is enough for a single portion for immediate use.

Step 1

Peel and mash about a third of the banana.

Step 2

Add a generous tablespoon of natural yoghurt and generous teaspoon of honey - stir thoroughly.

Step 3

Drizzle in ground oats while stirring to reach your desired texture. The texture should be soft and easily spreadable yet hold together enough so it doesn't drip off your face.

Step 4

Apply to face and neck (and include the backs of your hands if you have enough leftover). I used the flexible spatula you see in the pic to apply. You could also use the back of a teaspoon or a soft brush. Allow the mask to sit for 15-20 minutes.

This mask won't dry out, so in theory you could keep it on for a full hour if you like. Your skin will love you for it.

To Remove

  1. Using a spoon (or the flexible spatula), gently scrape off and discard the mask.

  2. Rinse face

  3. Finish with a spritz of hydrosol and a few drops of face oil.

  4. Rejoice in your instant glowing beauty!

Do Tell

Have you ever thought of putting breakfast on your face?

More Stuff You Might Find Interesting

Traditional and Medicinal Uses of Banana, Journal of Pharmacognosy and Phytochemistry (LINK)

Banana from peel to pulp, Ethnopharmacology, source of bioactive compounds and its relevance for human health (LINK)

PS: If you liked this mask, the book below (available in Spanish and English) is a beginner friendly guide to making your own cosmetics and includes a whole section with fresh food masks

Dandelions and Skincare - What Does Science Say?

Lise

When I started researching dandelion’s possible uses for skincare some years ago, I was pretty impressed at what this common plant has to offer.

Useless weed?

Ahem.

Think again.

Even science has declared dandelions 'warrant further study'.

(Science usually says this kind of thing when it finds evidence that traditional remedies aren’t all fairy tales and fantasy). I seem to be seeing that happening more and more these days.

And the truth is, there is a wealth of hidden treasure in this multifunctional and bountiful plant.

Shall we take a closer look at dandelions?

Dandelions Have Healing Properties

Science agrees the chemical composition of Taraxacum officinale (that's the botanical name for dandelion) makes it helpful and useful for numerous medical conditions and ailments.

Dandelions are

  • Antioxidative

  • Anti-inflammatory

  • Antimicrobial (to some degree)

  • Diuretic

  • Tonic

All this medicinal magic from a 'weed' most homeowners are busy trying to banish from their gardens.

Extraction Methods are Up for Discussion

The most up to date scientific articles I have found on dandelions seem to be focused on examining which plant part has the most to offer in the way of actives.

Some studies are focused on the root while others are studying plant parts and their constituents in correlation to what time of year they are harvested before extraction.

Extraction methods are also being studied to determine which is most efficient. Ethanol extraction seems to be getting the most attention in the scientific community, although there are a few scientific souls looking into oil extraction. Check the links below for more information.

LisaLise Soothing Dandelion Balm Experiment

Pictured here: side-by-side infusions in 2 different oils. On the left, dandelion blossoms in sunflower oil and on the right, leaves-and-stems in sweet almond oil.

I combined the 2 finished macerations with a few other other plant-based soothing ingredients in a test balm (pictured at the top of this post).

This is a bit typical of the way I work - a combination of research, trying out ideas, and experimentation.

What started me on this dandelion research was a comment about dandelions for pain relief. Admittedly, the commenter was taking dandelion internally (by the drop as a tincture), but the idea of trying it in topical application was the basis for the infusions and a foot balm for tired aching feet.

You know when you have been on your feet all day and your feet start yelling at you to sit down? That kind of tired and aching.

I got such a great response from my extensive test team (foot left and foot right) that I have done many batches since and have even handed out a samples to a few willing testers.

Dandelion TIP

If you want to get max bang for your buck, try doing oil extractions with the alcohol intermediary method using all plant parts. I split up the parts of the planet so I can also combine oils.

Do Tell

Do you use dandelions in any of your skincare products? Please share what your experiences are in a comment below!

More About Dandelions: Nerdy Stuff

Dandelion (taracum officinale and T Mongolicum), Erik Yarnell, Kathy Abascal (LINK)

Taraxacum Officiale herb as an Antiinflammatory Medicine, American Journal of Advanced Drug (LINK)

Taraxacum- a review on its phytochemical and pharmacological profile (LINK)

Anti inflammatory evaluation of the methanolic extract of taraxacum officinale in LPS stimulated human umbilical vein endolethial cells (not oil extracted, but still interesting) (LINK)

Topical herbal Therapies and Alternative and Complementary Choice to Combat Acne (LINK)

Taraxacum: an overview (Science Direct) (LINK)

Qualitative and Quantitative analysis of phytochemicals of Taraxacum Officinale (LINK)

If you want to make a few balms with me, please check out the ebook below.

Allantoin - the Extra Skin Shield

Lise

Today, we're going to take a closer look at an ingredient that that has been around for ages in both cosmetics and dermatological products and is useful for numerous things. That photo up there is a clue to one of its sources.

The ingredient is allantoin.

Happily, allantoin has the exact same INCI name as the common name (INCI: allantoin). Because it has been around for yonks (that means ages), science has also had ample time to study and document what herbalists have both known and demonstrated for many generations.

So, What is Allantoin?

Allantoin is a protective and skin conditioning agent that can be sourced from either the plant, animal, or laboratory-made world.

It is present in (among other things) sugar beets and chamomile, but the root of the humble comfrey plant is the most widely recognised source of allantoin from the plant world.

In the animal world, allantoin can be sourced from (are you ready?) snail secretion (LINK) as well as bovine urine.

For clarity: bovine urine is cow pee.

Yes, really.

Actually, I'm favouring the cows here as allantoin is present in the urine of most mammals. While researching allantoin, I found some interesting info about using cow pee in cosmetics, so the cows get a little spotlight (and links below if you’re curious to read more).

When you purchase allantoin from a cosmetic ingredients supplier, it is generally sold as a white powder.

Allantoin is Well Tolerated

Most people tolerate allantoin extremely well. It has several functions in skin care (which I'll get into in a minute), but one of the coolest is its unique ability to act like a protective 'shield' for the skin and scalp.

Examples:

  • In shampoo, allantoin helps protect a sensitive scalp from reacting to (the harshness of) the detergents.

  • Likewise, in a body wash allantoin helps counteract any reactions to detergents.

Allantoin does this without interfering with the function of the product, so it happily won't change texture, feel or performance.

Even a small amount will help protect the user from experiencing irritation from other ingredients that would otherwise irritate sensitive skin. You'll find it in many products that target eczema and psoriasis.

As you have probably already gathered, allantoin is super useful in products for extra sensitive skin.

Allantoin Promotes The Healing Process

Allantoin is a cell proliferant (read: it promotes skin cell regeneration and tissue growth). This study from 1979 (LINK) explains more.

It also helps sensitive skin become more resilient by helping counteract dryness and cracking.

Allantoin helps facilitate the healing of wounds (LINK) (LINK)

It is well recognised as a skin protective agent due to its ability to help the skin retain moisture.

Allantoin has made its way into all types of personal care products over the years. If you are an avid ingredients list reader, you'll spot it in shampoos, lipsticks, eye make-up, sun care, bath, and oral hygiene products. (LINK) (LINK)

In short, allantoin’s many beneficial functions are both proven and well-documented.

If you want to get busy with allantoin and can't source the powder but have access to dried comfrey root (the dark bits pictured above), consider making your own extract (and using that a higher percentage than allantoin). Allantoin is normally added at 0.5-2.0% - but do follow your suppliers recommended usage rates, (LINK)

A Few Properties of Allantoin (With Topical Use)

  • Skin protectant

  • Moisture binding

  • Soothing (well tolerated by people with rosacea)

  • Calming

  • Does not clog pores (therefore ideal for oily and acne'd skin)

  • Anti-irritant

Do Tell

Have you worked with allantoin? What was your experience with it? Have you ever done a comparative test of allantoin vs comfrey root extract? If so, please share your experiences in a comment below.

More About Allantoin (and cow pee as a cosmetic ingredient)

Tips on working with allantoin in cosmetics by Marie Rayma of Humblebee and Me (LINK)

2010 report on the safety assessment of allantoin (LINK)

Medical herbalist richard whelan on comfrey root (LINK)

Cow urine - a potential ayurvedic ingredient in cosmetics (LINK)

Cow urine cosmetics (LINK)

Join us in Formulators Kitchen! We're accepting new applications! Click the picture above or the button below to learn more.



How to Treat a Rash from DIY Baking Soda Deodorant

Lise

Having to deal with a sudden rash, redness, itchiness, pain, swelling or rough, leathery skin in the armpits is nobody's idea of a good time. Unfortunately, this has become an unexpected and painful reality for a heck of a lot of people who are simply trying to live a greener life.

Information (and misinformation) about some commonly used ingredients in deodorants continues to flourish, causing many to seek alternatives to commercially produced deodorants.

A great number of the 'greener’ (and DIY) deodorant solutions involve applying a chemical compound more commonly known as baking soda to the delicate skin of the armpits, which can causes a wide range of unfortunate and unpleasant reactions.

In Theory, it Sounds Like a Good Idea to Use Baking Soda as a Deodorant

The logic of reaching for baking soda is understandable: it is easily obtainable at any supermarket and great for many household uses: cleaning, spot removal, etc.

It’s also a great deodoriser (ever hear of placing an open box of baking soda in the refrigerator to remove odors? It works)

So how could it possibly be harmful?

What folks are overseeing in their otherwise admirable quest to go green is that baking soda (or sodium bicarbonate) is a chemical compound that can function as an irritant with prolonged skin contact.

Applying it to armpits is not only prolonged direct contact, but prolonged contact with a sensitive area.

What Happens With Prolonged Skin Contact to Baking Soda

There are a variety of common reactions to baking soda deodorant

  • Discoloration (reddish, brownish or general darkening) of the skin

  • Thickening, leathery skin

  • Slight rash

  • Heavy, itchy rash

  • Rash with painful pustules

Yikes!

Damage Done, Now What?

Because so many of you have asked, I've put together a few tips for dealing with the discomfort of ‘baking soda burn’ to help get your pits back on track as quickly as possible.

How to Treat Baking Soda Burn

Contrary to what you might have read or heard, the rash/itchiness/reaction you are experiencing is NOT due to ‘detoxing from commercial deodorant’. It is more likely a reaction to the baking soda in the deodorant you used.

First thing to do is put that deodorant away and refrain from using any deodorant until your pits are once again happy and healed.

Depending on how serious your discomfort is, consider seeing a doctor. This may sound like overkill, but some folks have had quite serious reactions that needed immediate medical attention. If you are in even the teensiest bit of doubt – get your doctor to check your pits.

If your skin has become thick, leathery and/or discolored but is otherwise pain-free, you can probably self treat with one or more of these methods

  • Apply cool compress (wet a clean soft cloth with cold water, wring out and place on armpits)

  • Apply pure aloe vera to the affected area (if you can source aloe vera juice, try misting it on the pits. If you can source aloe vera gel, apply a thin layer to pits)

  • Mist the affected area with a hydrosol (rose, lemon balm, chamomile and lavender are quite calming)

  • Cucumber cooler. Line a small bowl with a soft cloth. Grate cucumber into the cloth. Gather up edges of cloth to form a little ‘bag’ (like pictured above) and gently dab the pits with the bag.

  • Make a colloidal oat solution and use to gently ‘wash’ the pits. This can also be made using regular rolled oats and water (drop a teaspoon of oats into a bowl of water and stir — the liquid should be runny but slightly ‘gloopy’). To use, dip a clean soft cloth in the liquid, wring out lightly, and gently dab the armpits.

  • After washing/rinsing, help soothe the area with a small application of pure coconut oil. Be gentle!

  • While your pits are healing, an acidic mixture such as fresh lemon juice or apple cider vinegar diluted in water (about 1:10) can be carefully dabbed on unbroken skin

I wish you a speedy recovery and happy pits!

Make Your Own Botanical Deodorants

If you are interested in learning how to make your own effective botanical deodorants (and other personal care products) with simple, easy-to-source ingredients, check the e-book below (available in both English and Spanish). The 3 bottles on the right of the picture below are deodorants.

Pine Tar Soap

Lise

Pictured above is not a fudge brownie (although I can see how people could mistake this for something edible). What you are looking at is pine tar soap.

This particular soap has a very long history of use (over hundreds of years).

Pine tar is made by burning pine wood. It is a dark, sticky mass that has a decidedly smoky smell - similar to smelling concentrated campfire.

Pine tar was originally used to protect and preserve wood and has its roots in Scandinavia. Throughout history, it has made its way into - of all things - soap. Despite the rather 'medicinal' and pungent smell pine tar soap has, it is loved by many - especially those with sensitive skin.

Today, we're going to learn a bit about this soap from a maker of it.

Sharon O’Reilly is the owner of Two Sheep Soapery located in Ireland. A post by Sharon on social media about pine tar soap stirred memories from years gone by, so I asked if she would be willing to share a bit about how she makes her pine tar soap and help dispel a few myths about pine tar.

Please join me in welcoming Sharon to the blog!

Thank you for joining us today Sharon. You have been making handcrafted soaps and cosmetics for over 2 decades, but your pine tar soap is special. Could you share a bit about how you got started making it?

Thank you for inviting me. This is very exciting & I'm honoured you have asked me to join you today.

I have been making handcrafted soap & cosmetics since 2011. I've made my own Balms & oil blends since I qualified in aromatherapy in 1996.

I found out about cold process pine tar soap around 2012. It was in an online American soap group & it was being talked about for skin problems. Since having chemotherapy for breast cancer, my skin has become quite sensitive, even my sense of smell/taste changed, prone to dryness & I've become very allergic to insect bites which scar horribly. This was one of many reasons why I started to make my own products after my diagnosis.

Pine tar soap is really good for skin problems. Historically in European pharmaceutical products, pine tar has been used for eczema, dry skin conditions, psoriasis, dandruff, in veterinary preparations to aid healing & as a fly deterrent on any shearing abrasions in the sheep. I use it a lot on my farm here in Ireland & find it really useful.

It's very healing.

Is pine tar a difficult ingredient to work with?

When I make my pine tar soap, I just follow my usual cold process formula (you can hot process it too which I've done) & add pine tar to my warm oils including any FO/EO (fragrance oils/essential oils).

Pine Tar is like thick, sticky brown syrup. I measure mine out separately & keep to one side until needed. I am assessed to use 10% but some soapers use as much as 20%, others only 5%. Then I add the lye solution as last thing. I never stick blend, just stir with a spoon until emulsified because it only takes a few minutes to get really thick & you have to work really fast getting it in the mould! Please don't use a stick blender or it's instant soap on a stick! Lol.

The soaps look like beautiful chocolate brownies (so I get told all the time by people), but you really don't want to eat it....Yuck!

There are some studies that conclude wood tar preparations (including pine tar) contain carcinogenic constituents that may induce skin cancer, yet ironically, pine tar soap has a long history of use specifically for skin conditions. What has been your experience with this soap and how it works?

There have been various discussions regarding the safety of various tars etc. I think where people are getting confused is between the different tars.

Coal Tar is prohibited & can have carcinogenic substances in it.

Pine tar is perfectly safe which is the one I am assessed to use. I work with an amazing cosmetic chemist.

Are there any precautions people should take before making their own pine tar soap?

Do have a go at making this wonderful soap! Initially, the smell is very strong. Perhaps put it in a shed to cure or dry out. It has a very woody, smoky, little burnt smell.

After a few weeks of curing/drying, I think it smells like like the old fashioned medicated vosene herbal shampoo! I've had both men & women say that they like the smell & I think it's suitable for all skin types. It is a very gentle soap. I make mine with a tallow base.

Good luck to everyone who has a go making the soap & I hope you enjoy the skin loving qualities it brings you.

Thank you so much for sharing these tips and insights to pine tar soap Sharon!

Find Sharon and Two Sheep Soapery here.

More About Pine Tar Soap

Pine Tar; History and Uses (LINK)

Effect of Pine Tar on Disease severity in moderate-to-severe childhood eczema (LINK)

Topical Pine Tar: History, properties and use as treatment for common skin conditions (LINK)

Opinion of the Scientific Committee on Cosmetic Products and Non-Food Products intended for Consumers concerning Wood tar and Wood Tar Products (LINK TO PDF DOCUMENT)

Dr Squatch - Benefits of Pine Tar Soap (LINK)

Parabens Come From Plants

Lise

That title is true, you know. Parabens are naturally occurring in many plants. Like the one pictured here: Japanese honeysuckle (INCI: Lonicera japonica).

Paraben preservatives have been around and used in food, cosmetics, and pharmaceuticals for almost 100 years.

In more recent years, many natural cosmetics companies have been advertising their products as paraben-free, yet listed Japanese Honeysuckle extract on the ingredients list.

Hmmm.

I'm not sure whether to be annoyed with them for lying about their products being paraben-free or to be annoyed about parabens being publicly vilified for so long they must be hidden behind a plant extract name.

The truth is, parabens are a part of nature and as such, we ingest and apply them regularly.

There’s More Than One Paraben

Note the S. Parabens aren't just one ingredient. There are several parabens.

These are the most commonly used parabens in cosmetics:

  • Ethylparaben

  • Methylparaben

  • Propylparaben

  • Butylparaben

But there are even more.

The following parabens were approved for cosmetics earlier, but have (since 2014) been banned from use in the EU:

  • Isopropylparaben

  • Isobutylparaben

  • Phenylparaben

  • Benzylparaben

  • Pentylparaben

And (believe it or not) there are even more parabens, but we're sticking to the cosmetics and food related ones in this post.

Where the Paraben Name Comes From

The name paraben is a condensation of the name Para-hydroxybenzoic acid. Parabens are esters of para-hydroxybenzoic acid.

What this means: para-hydroxybenzoic acid is chemically changed (reacted) by adding different types of alcohol to it (also called esterified).

Parabens in Nature

In nature, you will find parabens in abundance. They are naturally present in carrots, cocoa, vanilla, strawberries, and grapes. Methylparaben is found in blueberries, where it acts as a natural antimicrobial agent. You'll also find parabens in olives, coconut, ylang ylang, black currants, and peaches.

There's even more, but I'm sure you get the drift.

Even though they are naturally occurring in many botanicals, paraben preservatives are not produced by extracting plants. That would be far too pricey a process to be viable. The paraben preservatives for cosmetics and foods are made in labs using manmade chemicals.

Is this Scary?

According to some, it gives cause for concern. According to others, it doesn't.

Science doesn't agree on every point and is continually studying and reassessing, so I'm going to give you a few of the different (and more current) statements I have been able to find.

Cosmeticsinfo.org writes:

"Para-hydroxybenzoic acid (PHBA) occurs naturally in many fruits and vegetables, such as cucumbers, cherries, carrots, blueberries, and onions, and is also formed naturally in your body by the breakdown of certain amino acids. The parabens used in cosmetics are identical to those found in nature, and are quickly eliminated by the body."

(LINK)

Robert Tisserand, author of Essential Oil Safety, wrote an article in 2009 entitled The Paraben Parable where he states

"The paraben “scare” was based on the fact that parabens were found in the breast tissue of women with breast cancer, even though no causal association was established. Presumably milk might be found in cancerous breast tissue too, but does that mean that milk causes breast cancer? No, the fundamental reason for banishing parabens was that the popular press decided that parabens very likely caused breast cancer."

Read the entire article here.

Dene Godfrey, author of Preservation and Preservatives is quoted in a 2009 article in Cosmetics Design saying that much of the bad press about parabens stems from a study published in 2004 that was "seriously flawed". (LINK)

The Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) confirmed (after yet another review of) the safety of parabens in cosmetics in 2013 that, dosed as recommended, parabens are still safe for use in cosmetics. (LINK)

Some of the more recent studies are more cautious. This 2021 paper 'Parabens as chemicals of emerging concern in the environment and humans: A review' states

"..recent research indicates that parabens may act as endocrine-disrupting chemicals (EDCs) and thus, are considered as chemicals of emerging concern that have adverse human health effects."

(LINK)

The most recent (2021) information from the (European) Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) (specifically on propylparaben) concludes that it comes down to a question of dose:

"The available data on propylparaben provide some indications for potential endocrine effects. However, the current level of evidence is not sufficient to regard it as an endocrine disrupting substance, or to derive a toxicological point of departure based on endocrine disrupting properties for use in human health risk assessment."

(LINK)

The Amended Safety Assessment of Parabens as Used in Cosmetics, 2020 states:

"The Panel concluded that 20 of the 21 parabens included in this report are safe in cosmetics in the present practices of use and concentration described in this safety assessment when the sum of the total parabens in any given formulation does not exceed 0.8%."

(LINK)

In contrast, the USA continues to use parabens that have been banned in the EU since 2014. This article from 2019 by Oliver Milman in the Guardian states:

“Generally, the EU has got it right. In the US, we have a strong favouritism towards companies and manufacturers, to the extent that public health and the environment is being harmed. The pendulum has swung in an extreme way and it’s really going to take a general awakening by the public.”

(LINK)

Conclusion: Too Much Confusion

It's no wonder many have steered clear of parabens over recent years. Some parabens are completely banned in some countries and allowed in others.

They continue to be 'lumped together' as a single thing which makes the question of 'paraben safety' confusing for everyone. Which paraben are we talking about, and at which usage rate? I can understand how some might find it easier to just say no to all of them as it takes a serious amount of research to stay up to date with the latest findings. And since paraben preservatives have been around for almost 100 years, there's enough information and studies to get stuck into!

I have worked with parabens for numerous years and would have to dig deep in both my notes and memory to find a single occasion where they have failed in a formulation. I don't recall that they ever have. There's no denying that consistently stable and able preservatives makes formulation work even more enjoyable - who doesn't love a stable workhorse preservation system?

That said, I have been so immersed in Hurdle Technology in recent years that I rarely use any 'added' preservatives in my formulations any more.

All Natural Please

In general, I am a fan of all natural everything, so please allow me to share the recipe for a refreshingly tasty all-natural paraben-rich concoction.

Paraben Smoothie

  • 20 Strawberries

  • 1 cup Coconut Milk

  • 2 Peaches

  • Handful of ice cubes

Whiz in a blender until smooth and enjoy topped with a dollop of strawberry ice cream.

Enjoy!

More About Parabens

Paraben's bad press are based on flawed science: Dene Godfrey cited in Cosmetics Design (LINK)

CosmeticInfo.org on parabens (LINK)

L. Cassiday, The preservative wars, AOCS Feb 2013 (LINK)

Y. Naseer, There is nothing wrong with parabens, Illumination 2021 (LINK)

D. Godfrey, Cosmetic Formulation, Chapter: Preservation and Preservatives, 2019 (LINK)

Chemical Safety Facts.org on Parabens (2022) (LINK)

Want to avoid preservatives altogether in your cosmetics?

The bundle offer below shows you how to get busy using Hurdle Technology in your own cosmetics.