How to Make Your Own Make-Up Base for Pencils

Today, I'm going to show you how to make a base mixture that can be used to make your own color cosmetics such as lip pencils, eye pencils, eyebrow pencils, and even blush sticks.

You're probably wondering how it is possible to create a texture that is equally good for all these uses. A lip pencil needs to go on smoothly yet be firm enough to where the tip doesn't break off at application. An eye pencil needs to be softer, smoother, and not even come close to feeling draggy on the skin. For cheek application, a firmer texture is ideal.

How is it possible to tick ALL these boxes?

Because I say so.

(insert wink and smile here)

I've been experimenting, testing, tweaking, and meticulously logging my results for a few years now and finally succeeded in creating an exquisitely sublime texture that is great for all of these uses. It holds pigment well, has great slip and staying power without feeling the least bit tacky or sticky - on MY skin.

So, if you have skin similar to mine, this base is perfection.

Skin type plays a major role in which texture/stiffness/glide-factor feels and performs best. But even if this base doesn't turn out to be 100% perfection for your skin, feel free to use it as a starting point and tweak to your heart's content until you have your own version of awesomeness.

Let's Make a Make-Up Pencil Base

This is enough for a 50 gram batch. Is 50g a lot or a little?

For reference:

• Eyebrow and lipliner pencils generally contain 2-3 grams

• Lipstick is generally between 6-10 grams (depending on the container)

So this batch is enough for about 4 lipsticks and 10 eyebrow pencils.

LisaLise's Make-up Pencil Base

Ingredient	Grams
Cetearyl Alcohol	20.5
Jojoba (oil)	19.5
Beeswax	9.5
Vitamin E Antioxidant	0.5

Method

1. Weigh ingredients

2. Transfer wax, jojoba and cetearyl alcohol to a heatproof glass container

3. Melt slowly over low heat until thoroughly melted

4. Remove from heat

5. Add E-vitamin and stir thoroughly

6. Pour mixture into container

7. Allow to cool completely (without lid)

8. When set, store cool and dark until use.

TIP

Do not place the base into the refrigerator until it is fully cool or you risk condensation droplets (which are bad news for this preservative-free product).

TIP

A wine refrigerator has the perfect storage temperature (or, if you have a dedicated ingredients refrigerator, set the temp to the warmest possible temperature - that's about the same as a wine refrigerator)

Substitutions

Feel free to make all the substitutions and changes you like, but expect the texture, feel, and glide to change with EACH and ANY alteration. May I politely refer you to the bit above where I wrote about tweaking and testing for years. I've probably done as many different versions and tried as many different ingredient combinations as can be imagined.

That said, there are LOADS of different ways to do a base like this and get it right, so don't be afraid of making changes to achieve what YOU prefer.

How to Make a Make-Up Pencil with the Base

1. Weigh out the amount you need and place in a heatproof container

2. Melt slowly until thoroughly melted

3. Add desired pigment mixture

4. Test color on skin (BEFORE transferring to your container!)

5. Add more pigment (or base) and test again until happy with the coverage and look

6. Stir thoroughly and transfer to your final (containers)

7. Allow to set

8. Pat self on back for making your own awesome stuff!

Do Tell

If you decide to give this a try, I'd love hear how it turns out for you and if you made any changes. Please feel free to share in a comment below.

Interested in making your own water-based lip tint? The book below shows you how to make your own glycerine extracts and includes a formula for lip tint.

The Art of Making Glycerites for Cosmetics

Breakfast Ingredients Face Mask

Let's do something a little roots today. I figured it's about time we revisited this face mask which consists of ingredients you probably already have in your kitchen. In fact, you may have even enjoyed some of them for breakfast.

Never ever considered making your own skincare? Well, guess what, I hereby pronounce this your day to get started.

Let's put breakfast on our faces!

(Just to set your mind at ease, no eggs or bacon are involved).

Breakfast Ingredients

This super moisture boosting face mask calls for

1. Ripe banana

2. Natural yoghurt

3. Ground oats (see this post to make your own ground oats)

4. Raw honey

I know what you're thinking:

• Does it really boost moisture?

• Can it make skin feel deliciously smooth?

• Will it leave your face feeling like you've gotten an instant face lift?

I don't blame you a bit for thinking all that, because one wouldn't imagine ordinary breakfast foods could do anything of the sort.

But to answer your questions:

Yes to all of the above.

Here's why putting these particular foods on your face can be beneficial for your skin:

Yoghurt

has a natural content of lactic acid and offers gentle exfoliation (REF - this blog)

Oats

are all around fabulous for skin in more ways than you can count (seriously -- try counting them -- you'll be busy until next week)

Banana

adds both moisture and an instant glow. (Some banana fans claim there are skin lightening properties which can help hyperpigmentation, but I need to do some research on this before I can be sure if this particular claim has any substance to it)

Raw Honey

Honey has so much to offer skin that even science can't deny it. Truth: I'm a bit of a honey addict. (do a google search for 'LisaLise honey' and you'll see what I mean)

Ready to get busy putting breakfast on your face?

Excellent!

This is enough for a single portion for immediate use.

Step 1

Peel and mash about a third of the banana.

Step 2

Add a generous tablespoon of natural yoghurt and generous teaspoon of honey - stir thoroughly.

Step 3

Drizzle in ground oats while stirring to reach your desired texture. The texture should be soft and easily spreadable yet hold together enough so it doesn't drip off your face.

Step 4

Apply to face and neck (and include the backs of your hands if you have enough leftover). I used the flexible spatula you see in the pic to apply. You could also use the back of a teaspoon or a soft brush. Allow the mask to sit for 15-20 minutes.

This mask won't dry out, so in theory you could keep it on for a full hour if you like. Your skin will love you for it.

To Remove

1. Using a spoon (or the flexible spatula), gently scrape off and discard the mask.

2. Rinse face

3. Finish with a spritz of hydrosol and a few drops of face oil.

4. Rejoice in your instant glowing beauty!

Do Tell

Have you ever thought of putting breakfast on your face?

More Stuff You Might Find Interesting

Traditional and Medicinal Uses of Banana, Journal of Pharmacognosy and Phytochemistry (LINK)

Banana from peel to pulp, Ethnopharmacology, source of bioactive compounds and its relevance for human health (LINK)

PS: If you liked this mask, the book below (available in Spanish and English) is a beginner friendly guide to making your own cosmetics and includes a whole section with fresh food masks

Make Your Own Preservative Free Natural Cosmetics With 21 Ingredients

Haz tus propios productos cosméticos naturales sin conservantes con 21 ingredientes

How to Make a Glycerite with Fresh Cucumber

Today we’re revisiting one of the first glycerites I shared on the blog and a kickstarter to my passion for making and using glycerites with fresh foods in my cosmetics. I’ve pepped up the original pictures and added a few extra tips, so let’s get started!

Why Glycerites?

Glycerine extracts (or glycerites) are useful alternatives for folks who may not want to use tinctures (alcohol extracts) in their products, but glycerites also have additional advantages. Glycerine (also spelled glycerin) is an excellent humectant that doubles as an ideal solvent for many botanical constituents.

In short: a glycerite is glycerine with 'added botanical power' – the perfect addition to your lotions, creams, skin tonics and mists, serums, cleansers, and more.

Let’s make a fresh cucumber glycerite!

Water to Glycerine - How Much?

If you follow classic herbalist glycerite making instructions, you’ll find a common ratio of water to glycerine is 50/50, so for this batch, we're going to take our inspiration from there.

Fresh cucumber is about 96% water, so the percentages for this batch are

• Glycerine 50.0 %

• Cucumber 49.4 %

• Preservative 0.6 %

Calculate the Batch

I am making a relatively small batch here (200 grams), so my batch amounts look like this.

• Glycerine: 100.0 grams

• Cucumber (organic): 98.8 grams

• Preservative (I used benzyl alcohol): 1.2 grams

Method

1. Sanitize your workspace, containers and equipment and pop on protective gloves

2. Peel and slice the cucumber (I peel even organic cucumbers - but that's just me. Feel free to include the peel if you like. Remember to thoroughly wash/rinse the cucumber before slicing if you include the peel)

3. Weigh cucumber

4. Weigh and add glycerine

5. Weigh and add preservative

6. Give the mixture a stir

7. Place lid on container

8. Keep container away from direct light in a not too warm area

9. Agitate daily for 5-10 days

Straining

If you used cucumber slices as I have here, you’ll notice that the slices start looking a bit shrivelled. That’s a good sign that your glycerite is ready for straining.

Before straining, be sure your equipment and containers are sanitised. (the funnel you are using is equipment too!)

1. Place a funnel into a container and line the funnel with a filter. Coffee filters are fine but you could also use a finely woven piece of muslin/cotton. In this picture. I am using a doubled-up piece of silk jersey.

2. Strain the mixture

3. Bottle

4. Label

Storage and Use

Store your glycerite cool and dark and use in your cosmetics within 6 months of making.

Glycerites can (and will) last much longer if made and stored properly, but I generally recommend using a handcrafted glycerite within 6 months of making.

Why?

Because when it is used as an ingredient in a cosmetic, that cosmetic is expected to have a certain shelf life.

Enjoy!

Want more glycerite making information? The book below might be just the thing you’re looking for.

The Art of Making Glycerites for Cosmetics

How to Make a Botanical Face Tea

How about a nice cuppa for your face? In truth, this is simply a different name for a traditional facial steam (except with added herbs and botanicals). But since it's herbs infused into hot water, I quite like the idea of calling it face tea.

Not only is this product easy to make, but it's a real skin pampering treat.

Let's make Face Tea!

Choosing Botanicals

Combine dried herbs and plants to your hearts content, but do keep in mind that you (or whoever you gift this to) will be enjoying the steam of your blend at a close distance.

I generally like to keep my dry herb blends at around 5-6, but there are no hard or set rules on this. Concentrate on combining plants that work well together and will create a good synergy.

Method

Gather your desired dried herbs.

For this face tea, I went for a calming theme and ended up with a sunny golden combination of chamomile, elderblossom, rose, orange blossom and calendula.

I find the task of choosing botanicals to be quite therapeutic. Apart from being possessors of magical properties, botanicals are a bit of eye candy in any form. I mean, who could look at these beauties and not smile?

But I digress.

Mix the herbs together thoroughly, then package.

How to Use a Face Tea

1. Remove make-up and wash face

2. In a large bowl, pour boiling water over 1-2 tablespoons of tea blend

3. Hold face over bowl for 5-10 minutes at a comfortable distance

4. If desired, place a towel over head to keep in steam. The steam will open pores and refresh.

5. Rinse face with lukewarm, then cool water.

6. Finish with a spritz of hydrosol or light skin tonic and a few drops of face oil

TIP: If you are a bit creative with packaging, these facial teas make lovely personal gifts for the special people in your life.

Who Face Tea is Not Ideal For

Anyone with a tendency to rosacea or with ultra sensitive skin, may not do well with a face tea. Hot steam can exacerbate some sensitive skin conditions, so be mindful if gifting your face tea to someone with sensitive skin.

My own 'ridiculously sensitive' skin is OK with most face teas, but I don't use them more often than every other month.

Do Tell

Have you ever made a face tea? Which herbs did you use?

The book below includes a section on herbs and their uses and there’s a bundle offer in the shop too!

Bundle Offer! Get Started Making Plant Extracts & Three Extracts Guide

LisaLise Newsletter

Sign up for the LisaLise Newsletter to stay in the loop about ingredients and processes. You’ll also get formulating tips & tricks, free formulas and how-to’s and loads of natural cosmetic inspiration.

How to Make an Ivy Leaf Hair Cleanser

Pictured above: an all natural sudsy liquid that will cleanse your hair and scalp beautifully.

You've probably seen this plant many times and in many places: parks, gardens, fields, forests, and urban areas.

I seem to remember hearing it referred to as 'the architects comfort' somewhere. Perhaps this is because it seems to grow just about anywhere (like, up brick walls) and adds a touch of green and a cozy atmosphere wherever it grows.

While it is both decorative and hardy, Hedera helix - otherwise known as Common ivy – is also a very useful plant for cleansing due to its natural content of saponins. (The word saponin comes from Latin: sapo means soap).

Ivy leaves can be transformed into an all natural cleanser for numerous things: dishes, laundry, and even your scalp and hair.

There is a slight difference in the method for making laundry and dishwashing liquid (which is more concentrated) as compared to a scalp and hair cleanser.

Today, I'm going to show you how to make your own hair and scalp cleanser with nothing more than a few freshly picked ivy leaves and some water.

Did someone say sustainable, planet-friendly effective hair and scalp magic?

Ivy Leaf Picking Tips

• Select leaves that are growing up (and not along the ground)

• Select healthy looking leaves

• If you are picking leaves from someone’s garden, remember to ask first

• Bring a small scissors to cut the leaves instead of tearing them off

Batch Size

I usually make a liter at a time (to last about a week), but feel free to make a smaller batch (which will also allow you to leave out the preservative and use regular tap water instead of distilled water)

For a 1 liter batch, you'll need:

1. Handful of fresh-picked ivy leaves (enough to fill about a third of a container that holds 1 liter)

2. Demineralised water

3. Broad spectrum preservative

For a use-the-same-day batch, you'll need

1. Small handful of ivy leaves (enough to fill about half of a container that holds 200 ml / 16,7 fl oz)

2. Tap water

Method

1. Inspect leaves and discard any unhealthy looking specimens.

2. Place leaves in container (do not pack them tightly, just drop the whole leaves into the container)

3. Boil water

4. Pour freshly boiled water over leaves

5. Cover container and allow to steep until the liquid reaches room temperature

6. Strain (and use same day if you made a single use portion). Otherwise continue with the next 6 steps below.

If you are making 1 liter:

1. Weigh the strained liquid

2. Weigh out appropriate amount of preservative and add to liquid.

3. Stir to thoroughly incorporate

4. Check pH (this infusion measured pH 6.0)

5. Adjust pH if necessary (I generally add a splash of herb-infused vinegar to function both as pH adjuster and hair-shine booster)

6. Bottle

I used phenonip as the preservative for this 1 liter batch.

How To Use the Ivy Leaf Hair Cleanser

1. Enter shower

2. Wet hair

3. Apply about 100 ml of liquid (for short fine hair -- you may need more if your hair is longer/thicker)

4. Massage scalp and hair lightly (as you would if you were using a shampoo).

5. Allow the liquid to sit in hair for about 4-5 minutes (while you finish showering)

6. Rinse hair

7. Do a 'squeak test' on your hair. If it doesn't feel clean enough, repeat steps 2 and 3.

8. Dry and set as usual

No Lather I Gather?

We’ve been taught for generations to equate lather with cleansing, but it is possible to cleanse thoroughly and completely without any lather or sudsing action.

This cleanser may foam up beautifully when you shake the bottle, but it goes on like water and rinses off like water.

Doing a squeak test will reveal that it really cleanses your hair. I’ve experimented a bit with how much it can handle, and can attest that this latherless cleanser even removes my pre-poo hair oil treatment with a mere 2 applications. The secret to optimal cleansing action is letting the liquid sit on the scalp for about 4-5 minutes after massaging and before rinsing off.

Enjoy!

Do Tell

If you decide to give this cleanser a try, I’d love to hear your feedback!

Find More Information

About Saponin Synthesis and Function (LINK)

Saponins and flavonoids in Ivy Leaf extracts (LINK)

Saponin content of ivy leaves (LINK)

Triterpenoid biosynthesis and engineering in plants (LINK)

---

If you prefer lather in your hair cleanser, then maybe the book below is for you.

Make Your Own Naturally Balanced Shampoo Bars

How to: Green Beauty Soap-Free Facial Cleanser

We're going to be making a soap-free facial cleanser today. Even if you've never tried making your own skincare products before, this cleanser might be the perfect project to start with. And if you are a practiced artisan, you may still want to give it a whirl because it's such an effective and skin-pampering cleanser.

The green beauty cleanser features green clay, spirulina, green tea, and chamomile and is great for normal to dry skin types. I'm betting it also may perform well with combination skin.

Here's how to make 100g.

LisaLise's Green Beauty Soap Free Cleanser

Phase	Ingredient	% / Grams
A	Cocoa Butter	8.0
A	Refined Palm Oil	24.0
A	Castor Oil	31.0
B	Green Clay	12.0
B	Chamomile Powder	8.0
B	Green Tea Powder	8.2
B	Spirulina	8.0
C	Broad Spectrum Preservative*	0.8

*I used phenonip, but preservative can be optional - read more below

Method

1. Slowly melt phase A ingredients over a water bath until they are thoroughly melted

2. Remove from heat

3. Add Phase B (dry ingredients), stir to combine thoroughly

4. Add phase C (this can be optional - read more below)

5. Pour into container

6. Chill for 15-30 minutes until set

7. Add a label (remember the date)

8. Store at room temperature

9. Use with unabandoned joy

About the Ingredients

This combo of fats and oils works beautifully on my (mature) skin, and also usually makes the perfect texture (not too runny and not too stiff), but you can replace these with your preferred combination of fats and butters. If you do make substitutions, expect to do a bit of tweaking to get the texture and spreadability to what you like.

The same goes for any clays and dry ingredients you want to replace. In cleansers of this nature, the dry ingredients are going to behave differently depending on what you are using, and the texture of the final product can change dramatically.

You'll have to experiment with what works best for you, but if you're brand new to making this kind of cleanser, I recommend trying the original formula first and then making any desired adjustments or changes in the second batch.

If you have no other options but to substitute one ingredient with another, replace with ingredients that have similar density and/or weight. Example: the refined palm oil might be substituted with illipe, sal or shea butter.

TIP: Be prepared that almost ANY replacement can affect the final texture.

Here’s the cleanser right after pouring up.

Preservative in a Water-Free Product?

Even though this is an anhydrous formula, I chose to add a preservative because of the intended use of this product: moisture does have a chance of being introduced to the mixture during use - most especially if you dip wet fingers into the jar.

If you are willing to be meticulous about using and storing the face cleanser so that no moisture gets in the jar, feel free to leave out the preservative.

I wrote a post about how to know when to use a preservative right here if you want to read more about this.

Using the Cleanser

For a single application, use approximately 1 teaspoon of cleanser

1. Apply to moistened skin

2. Massage gently using circular motions

3. Wipe away with a moistened cloth or cotton rounds

Because there is no emulsifier in this formula, trying to rinse the cleanser away with nothing but water is going to be a bit of a chore (and won't do your water pipes any favours either). For best results, gently wipe off, then finish with a spritz of skin mist.

In my experience, using non-emulsified cleansers allows for a few extra (precious) moments of self pampering, and that just makes the whole cleansing process an enjoyable ritual.

Do Tell

Have you ever made and used a soap free cleanser? What did you think of it? PLease feel free to share in a comment below.

If you’re interested in making self-preserving cleansers and your own self-preserving glycerine extracts, you might be interested in the bundle offer below.

Course Enrolment for Emulsions Essentials at Tisserand Institute now open!

Classes start August 30th, so be quick as a bunny and click the button below to sign up and join me for this 4-week course on hand-stirred emulsions!

Self Preserving BUNDLE