Make Your own Bi-Phase Cleansers - a New Publication

I’m very excited to share the latest LisaLise publication with you! We’re playing with plant colorants and making a bit of fun-loving, colorful cleansing magic in the form of bi-phase cleansers.

I had a blast putting this one together with all of the different colorful options there are to try.

And guess what? This is all about being able to customise!

It’s a Formulation Template

The astute observer may notice that the cover design features a band of color along the left side (which isn’t very common in my publications). That’s a visual indication that this e-book is (what I have decided to call) a Formulation Template.

This is something I have been wracking my brains about for quite a while: how to create a formula that is fully customisable yet contains enough information to ensure as successful a result as humanly possible.

This self-appointed challenge came about because of the many questions I get on ingredient substitutions. And because not everyone can get every ingredient all over the planet (well, duh), I wanted to try and accommodate that situation by creating a kind of ‘ open formula with a set of guidelines for a successful outcome’.

So it became a Formulation Template.

What does all this mean? It means you get a ‘toolkit’ of ingredient information and additional useful stuff, a formulation template with instructions on how to use it, and some example formulas to show you a few possible variations and get you comfortable with the whole process.

The first formulation template was the tooth powder e-book and I’ve gotten so much positive feedback on it that I just had to do another one. (And if you have suggestions for additional e-books you’d like to see of this type, please feel free to drop a comment below - I’m all ears!)

3 Bespoke Formulas Included

While developing an e-book of this type, I make and test a lot of formulas in several different versions. I decided to include 3 of the formulas in this book. So apart from the template (which shows you how to create your own formulas), you can also dive right in and get busy making one of my formulas if you like.

Bi-Phase Cleansers are Both Versatile and Easy to Make

What I love most about this type of product is the absolute versatility it offers. You can use these as eye makeup removers or cleansers, dress them up with fancy ingredients or dress them down to the bare basics. You can create specifically for certain skin types or just have fun with color mixing for the sheer playfulness of it.

The book is illustrated with several of the versions I made and I better warn you right now. If you like playing around with colors, you might get little addicted to making and using these.

Click the picture below to learn more about this publication.

Bi-Phase Cleansers

Do Tell

Which kinds of products would you like to see available as Formulation Templates?? Please feel free to pop in a comment below!

Below is the first Formulation Template.

Botanical Tooth Powders

Dandelions and Skincare - What Does Science Say?

When I started researching dandelion’s possible uses for skincare some years ago, I was pretty impressed at what this common plant has to offer.

Useless weed?

Ahem.

Think again.

Even science has declared dandelions 'warrant further study'.

(Science usually says this kind of thing when it finds evidence that traditional remedies aren’t all fairy tales and fantasy). I seem to be seeing that happening more and more these days.

And the truth is, there is a wealth of hidden treasure in this multifunctional and bountiful plant.

Shall we take a closer look at dandelions?

Dandelions Have Healing Properties

Science agrees the chemical composition of Taraxacum officinale (that's the botanical name for dandelion) makes it helpful and useful for numerous medical conditions and ailments.

Dandelions are

• Antioxidative

• Anti-inflammatory

• Antimicrobial (to some degree)

• Diuretic

• Tonic

All this medicinal magic from a 'weed' most homeowners are busy trying to banish from their gardens.

Extraction Methods are Up for Discussion

The most up to date scientific articles I have found on dandelions seem to be focused on examining which plant part has the most to offer in the way of actives.

Some studies are focused on the root while others are studying plant parts and their constituents in correlation to what time of year they are harvested before extraction.

Extraction methods are also being studied to determine which is most efficient. Ethanol extraction seems to be getting the most attention in the scientific community, although there are a few scientific souls looking into oil extraction. Check the links below for more information.

LisaLise Soothing Dandelion Balm Experiment

Pictured here: side-by-side infusions in 2 different oils. On the left, dandelion blossoms in sunflower oil and on the right, leaves-and-stems in sweet almond oil.

I combined the 2 finished macerations with a few other other plant-based soothing ingredients in a test balm (pictured at the top of this post).

This is a bit typical of the way I work - a combination of research, trying out ideas, and experimentation.

What started me on this dandelion research was a comment about dandelions for pain relief. Admittedly, the commenter was taking dandelion internally (by the drop as a tincture), but the idea of trying it in topical application was the basis for the infusions and a foot balm for tired aching feet.

You know when you have been on your feet all day and your feet start yelling at you to sit down? That kind of tired and aching.

I got such a great response from my extensive test team (foot left and foot right) that I have done many batches since and have even handed out a samples to a few willing testers.

Dandelion TIP

If you want to get max bang for your buck, try doing oil extractions with the alcohol intermediary method using all plant parts. I split up the parts of the planet so I can also combine oils.

Do Tell

Do you use dandelions in any of your skincare products? Please share what your experiences are in a comment below!

More About Dandelions: Nerdy Stuff

Dandelion (taracum officinale and T Mongolicum), Erik Yarnell, Kathy Abascal (LINK)

Taraxacum Officiale herb as an Antiinflammatory Medicine, American Journal of Advanced Drug (LINK)

Taraxacum- a review on its phytochemical and pharmacological profile (LINK)

Anti inflammatory evaluation of the methanolic extract of taraxacum officinale in LPS stimulated human umbilical vein endolethial cells (not oil extracted, but still interesting) (LINK)

Topical herbal Therapies and Alternative and Complementary Choice to Combat Acne (LINK)

Taraxacum: an overview (Science Direct) (LINK)

Qualitative and Quantitative analysis of phytochemicals of Taraxacum Officinale (LINK)

If you want to make a few balms with me, please check out the ebook below.

Book of Natural Balms - Volume 1

Glycerine, Glycerites and Preservative Power

Several of you have asked me about the preservative power of glycerine.

Can glycerine really function as a stand-alone preservative in a glycerite?

This is an excellent question.

I do wish the answer was more straightforward though.

The answer is "yes, but it depends."

Depends on What?

The need for adding preservative to a glycerite not only depends on the raw materials, but also how much you use of each component.

You: (groan) Really, Lise? Seriously? Does this have to be so difficult from the get-go?! Surely there is a simple answer!

I feel your frustration.

But you have to remember that glycerites can be made with a gazillion (if not a trillion gazillion) different things:

• dried herbs

• fresh herbs

• dried whole flowers or petals

• fresh flowers or petals

• dried fruits

• fresh fruits

• fresh veggies

So there's really not an easy answer to this question. I wish there was, but then life would just be far too simple, and life – apparently – doesn't like being simple when it comes to glycerites.

Why Life Isn't Simple When it Comes to Glycerites

During my research of glycerite-making methods, I have come across numerous different recommendations of how much glycerine to use to ensure proper preservation of the end product.

During all this time, I have never come across a single written (or online) source that could recommend percentages for a fresh food glycerite.

Not. A. Single. One.

I did keep notes of the recommendations I did find, which mostly focused on using reconstituted dried herbs. According to those, each of the following percentages is 'the norm' for how much glycerine to add to a glycerite to ensure proper preservation:

• over 25%

• 50%

• minimum 50%

• over 55%

• 75%

• 80%

Quite a span, there, don't you agree?

Many of these sources also recommend a 'use by' period which ranges from 6-24 months.

Every one of the above mentioned sources have struck me as serious, professional, and experienced (some links below). As glycerites have roots in herbalism, many were referring to extracts meant for consumption.

The Difference between Glycerites for Consumption and for Cosmetics

A glycerite for consumption is generally stored in one place at a steady temperature until it is added directly to food/drink and consumed.

On the other hand, a glycerite for cosmetic use may find itself in any kind of temperature and humidity (bathroom, handbag, pocket etc) in the end product. It is also opened and dipped into numerous times (with a possibility of contamination from the user) and still expected to have a shelf life that surpasses anything meant for consumption.

How Much Preservative?

My very first post on glycerites was a cucumber extract (link to updated post) which included the addition of 0.5% preservative.

That amount was inspired from a glycerite making guide on cosmetic supplier Aroma Zone's website which calls for 50% glycerine, reconstituted dried herbs and the addition of 0.6% broad spectrum preservative. (LINK)

For the cucumber glycerite, I chose to use 0.5% preservative and a glycerine percentage of 'just around 50%'.

'Just around 50%'? Is That Accurate Enough?

Nope.

'Just around 50%' is not accurate enough.

With fresh fruit and veg, the water-to-glycerine ratio gets tricky. To add to the 'fun', fruits (and many vegetables) contain sugars which can be an additional challenge.

If you don't know the exact water (and sugar) content, it's pretty much impossible to calculate exact percentages of anything.

How does one measure the exact water (and sugar) content of a fresh strawberry?

One cannot (if one also wishes to use it in a glycerite).

The only way to approach the water question is to find the average water content of said fruit (or veg), then work from there.

But average numbers are not exact numbers.

So.

To know for absolute sure how much – if any – preservative needs to be added to your glycerite, you need to do some calculating – followed by a bit of testing.

For Real?!!

You: (groaning and eye rolling) Math and then testing, Lise?! Seriously?! Could this get any worse? Why isn't there an easier way?

I totally feel your pain.

Really.

I've already spent quite a bit of time trying to find the answers. And if there was an easy, all-in-one, simple-dimple answer to this question, I would hand it to you on a silver platter.

But there isn't, so I can't.

But there's something I can (and will) do – provide you with a general guideline, and that is this:

Glycerine will greatly reduce the possibility for bacterial growth when it exceeds 50% percent of the solution.

You still have to do the calculating on the material you are using and go from there.

From what I have been able to find in the time I have been working with glycerites, the information on the preservation power of glycerine in glycerites for cosmetics is pretty much uncharted territory.

In my book The Art of Making Glycerites for Cosmetics, there are guidelines to help you do the calculation, but they are still guidelines. If I had tested every possible raw material on the planet, I could have given you a chart with set percentages, but that would probably take me longer to get through than anyone has the patience to wait for (even me).

I'll conclude with a few updated helpful tips to help you on your glycerite-making way.

LisaLise's Glycerite Making Tips

• Measure every ingredient accurately – and only by weight

• Work clean (keep your work space clean, sanitise equipment etc)

• Use prime raw materials (discard anything that isn't fresh or perfect)

• Keep copious notes

• Label everything you make (date, ingredients, and everything else that will help you recreate – or be able to pinpoint why you don't want to recreate – your formula

• Save a LABELLED, DATED portion of your formula for observation – even long past your 'use by' date. This is by far one of the most educational things you can do for yourself, and will require a bit of storage space as you continue to make glycerites.

Finally, don't forget to have fun with it – even the math part.

You can totally do this.

How do I know?

Cuz I just know.

Do Tell

How long do your glycerites last? Please share in a comment below!

References

John Kabara, Donald S Orth, Preservative free and self preserving cosmetics and drugs, Priciple and Practice, 1996, 45-69 (LINK)

Preserving Syrups, The Pharmaceutic and Compunding Laboratory, UNC Eshelman School of Pharmacy (LINK)

Cech, Richo, Making Plant Medicine, 2000 (LINK)

Gladstar, Rosemary, Medicinal Herbs: A beginners Guide, Lemon Balm Glycerite, 160 (LINK)

Gladstar, Rosemary, Family Herbal Guide to living life with energy, health and vitality, 2001 (LINK)

Green, James, The Herbal Medicine Maker's Handbook - A Home Manual, p 185-192 (LINK)

Wynn, Susan, Fougere, Barbara, Veterinary Herbal Medicine, p225 (LINK)

Fetro, Charles W, Avila, Juan R, The Complete Guide to Herbal Medicine, p8 (LINK)

Preservative for Biological Specimens , US Patent, 1978 (LINK)

The Art of Making Glycerites for Cosmetics

Calm Steam Face Tea

This is simple, fun, inexpensive, and ridiculously easy to make.

Extra bonus: it's beneficial for the skin.

Not only is a face tea a perfect gift or giveaway, if you package it up a little fancy (check the glass tube up there), it's also a bit of eye candy.

That's just got to be a win win win.

Combine Herbs to Your Hearts Content

Face tea is made by combining a selection of dried herbs and plants. You can create a blend to soothe, calm, energise, cleanse, relax - the possibilities are pretty limitless.

Today, I'm going to show you how I put together a blend I labelled 'Calm Steam'. This particular combination is soothing, relaxing and cleansing.

There's no added scent, no extras of any kind - just a few simple ingredients.

Method

For this calming face tea, I have combined 5 elements:

• Witch hazel

• Rosebuds

• Lavender

• Cornflower

• Mallow

You can, of course, create any combination you like. Choose herbs that will work in synergy and provide a lovely scent during use.

1. Place your dried herbs in a bowl.

2. Mix

3. Package

4. Rejoice!

Do Tell

Have you ever made or used a face tea? I'd love to hear about your favorite combination of herbs in a comment below.

Psst: The books below (both in English and Spanish) have additional great ideas that are easy to make and make thoughtful personalized gifts.

Make Your Own Preservative Free Natural Cosmetics With 21 Ingredients

Haz tus propios productos cosméticos naturales sin conservantes con 21 ingredientes

How to Make a Glycerite with Fresh Cucumber

Today we’re revisiting one of the first glycerites I shared on the blog and a kickstarter to my passion for making and using glycerites with fresh foods in my cosmetics. I’ve pepped up the original pictures and added a few extra tips, so let’s get started!

Why Glycerites?

Glycerine extracts (or glycerites) are useful alternatives for folks who may not want to use tinctures (alcohol extracts) in their products, but glycerites also have additional advantages. Glycerine (also spelled glycerin) is an excellent humectant that doubles as an ideal solvent for many botanical constituents.

In short: a glycerite is glycerine with 'added botanical power' – the perfect addition to your lotions, creams, skin tonics and mists, serums, cleansers, and more.

Let’s make a fresh cucumber glycerite!

Water to Glycerine - How Much?

If you follow classic herbalist glycerite making instructions, you’ll find a common ratio of water to glycerine is 50/50, so for this batch, we're going to take our inspiration from there.

Fresh cucumber is about 96% water, so the percentages for this batch are

• Glycerine 50.0 %

• Cucumber 49.4 %

• Preservative 0.6 %

Calculate the Batch

I am making a relatively small batch here (200 grams), so my batch amounts look like this.

• Glycerine: 100.0 grams

• Cucumber (organic): 98.8 grams

• Preservative (I used benzyl alcohol): 1.2 grams

Method

1. Sanitize your workspace, containers and equipment and pop on protective gloves

2. Peel and slice the cucumber (I peel even organic cucumbers - but that's just me. Feel free to include the peel if you like. Remember to thoroughly wash/rinse the cucumber before slicing if you include the peel)

3. Weigh cucumber

4. Weigh and add glycerine

5. Weigh and add preservative

6. Give the mixture a stir

7. Place lid on container

8. Keep container away from direct light in a not too warm area

9. Agitate daily for 5-10 days

Straining

If you used cucumber slices as I have here, you’ll notice that the slices start looking a bit shrivelled. That’s a good sign that your glycerite is ready for straining.

Before straining, be sure your equipment and containers are sanitised. (the funnel you are using is equipment too!)

1. Place a funnel into a container and line the funnel with a filter. Coffee filters are fine but you could also use a finely woven piece of muslin/cotton. In this picture. I am using a doubled-up piece of silk jersey.

2. Strain the mixture

3. Bottle

4. Label

Storage and Use

Store your glycerite cool and dark and use in your cosmetics within 6 months of making.

Glycerites can (and will) last much longer if made and stored properly, but I generally recommend using a handcrafted glycerite within 6 months of making.

Why?

Because when it is used as an ingredient in a cosmetic, that cosmetic is expected to have a certain shelf life.

Enjoy!

Want more glycerite making information? The book below might be just the thing you’re looking for.

The Art of Making Glycerites for Cosmetics

How to Make a Botanical Face Tea

How about a nice cuppa for your face? In truth, this is simply a different name for a traditional facial steam (except with added herbs and botanicals). But since it's herbs infused into hot water, I quite like the idea of calling it face tea.

Not only is this product easy to make, but it's a real skin pampering treat.

Let's make Face Tea!

Choosing Botanicals

Combine dried herbs and plants to your hearts content, but do keep in mind that you (or whoever you gift this to) will be enjoying the steam of your blend at a close distance.

I generally like to keep my dry herb blends at around 5-6, but there are no hard or set rules on this. Concentrate on combining plants that work well together and will create a good synergy.

Method

Gather your desired dried herbs.

For this face tea, I went for a calming theme and ended up with a sunny golden combination of chamomile, elderblossom, rose, orange blossom and calendula.

I find the task of choosing botanicals to be quite therapeutic. Apart from being possessors of magical properties, botanicals are a bit of eye candy in any form. I mean, who could look at these beauties and not smile?

But I digress.

Mix the herbs together thoroughly, then package.

How to Use a Face Tea

1. Remove make-up and wash face

2. In a large bowl, pour boiling water over 1-2 tablespoons of tea blend

3. Hold face over bowl for 5-10 minutes at a comfortable distance

4. If desired, place a towel over head to keep in steam. The steam will open pores and refresh.

5. Rinse face with lukewarm, then cool water.

6. Finish with a spritz of hydrosol or light skin tonic and a few drops of face oil

TIP: If you are a bit creative with packaging, these facial teas make lovely personal gifts for the special people in your life.

Who Face Tea is Not Ideal For

Anyone with a tendency to rosacea or with ultra sensitive skin, may not do well with a face tea. Hot steam can exacerbate some sensitive skin conditions, so be mindful if gifting your face tea to someone with sensitive skin.

My own 'ridiculously sensitive' skin is OK with most face teas, but I don't use them more often than every other month.

Do Tell

Have you ever made a face tea? Which herbs did you use?

The book below includes a section on herbs and their uses and there’s a bundle offer in the shop too!

Bundle Offer! Get Started Making Plant Extracts & Three Extracts Guide

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