How to : Shower Shaker Body Scrub

This came about during a spell of making loads of bath products – partly for Module 1 of the Formulation Course at Tisserand Institute and partly for this book.

Today, I'm going to show you how to make a Salt & Pepper Shower Shaker.

A Shower Shaker is a Dry Scrub for the Shower

We all know exfoliating scrubs, emulsified scrubs and other scrubby things, but have you ever made and used a dry scrub in the shower?

I hadn't either until this idea popped up. In many ways, it sounds a little bonkers to bring a dry scrub into a shower. But I experimented with a few ways to make it work, and this version turned out quite well so I had to share it.

Spoiler alert: despite what it looks like, there's no pepper in this product.

Packaging is an Integral Part of the Formula

Part of getting this product to work is finding/making appropriate packaging. There are loads of possiblities. For this batch, I used a small take-away cardboard coffee cup with a plastic lid that I punched holes in to create the 'shaker' bit. It works like a charm.

These cups hold 100 dl / 3.38 fl oz and are the perfect size for a single use. Even though they are sold as single use, I reuse them a few times. The plastic lid can be reused over and over again.

Shower Shaker Ingredients

There are only 4 ingredients to these shakers and you can pretty much put them together any way you like.

Choose salts or sugars that function well as exfoliants (no flaked salt or anything with sharp edges that might scratch the skin). In the pictured batch I am using fine Himalayan Pink Salt.

The 'pepper' in this shaker is actually coarsely ground hempseed flour bought at a local supermarket. You could also use ground hempseeds, or you could replace it with another herb that gives the mixture a peppery look.

Milk powder is added for a little luxurious extra. I use powdered skimmed milk (from a local supermarket). You can omit this ingredient if you like, or replace it with coconut milk powder for a vegan version.

Grated cocoa butter is a little bit of skin-loving magic that gives this mix a fabulous moisturising boost and leaves skin glowing. There's just enough added to moisturise the skin yet not enough to create cocoa butter build-up in your pipes (you're welcome, plumbers).

I've made numerous shaker mixes (both with and without cocoa butter), and every time I've left out the cocoa butter, it exfoliates just fine but just doesn't have that 'fabulous factor'. If you try it yourself, I'm guessing you'll agree.

The cocoa butter should be grated quite finely and distributed as evenly as possible throughout the mixture for optimal results. I know it's a bit fiddly to make grated cocoa butter, but it's worth the trouble.

TIP: Chill the cocoa butter before grating it and immediately store your grated cocoa butter chilled if you want it to remain finely grated and not turn into a lump that needs to be re-grated.

So, are you ready to give this a try? The following is enough for about 5-6 scrubs.

LisaLise’s Salt and Pepper Exfoliating Shower Shaker

Ingredient	Grams	Ounces
Salts of Choice	255	9
Coarse Hempseed Flour	15	0.53
Powdered Skimmed Milk	15	0.53
Grated Cocoa Butter	15	0.53

Method

1. Weigh out all ingredients

2. Place in bowl and stir to incorporate thoroughly

3. Transfer to air-tight container for storage

Now all you need to do is find/make your ideal shaker container to use when it's time to exfoliate. If you use cups like the one pictured above, it's easy to measure out a few portions by filling a few cups and storing them dry until use. I’ve played around with numerous different types of containers and found most of the work. I’ll be posting more ideas in upcoming posts.

How to use a Shower Shaker

1. Start by running the water and stepping under the shower to get thoroughly wet.

2. Now, turn off the water and grab your shaker. Sprinkle enough mixture into a hand for one limb and scrub to your hearts desire.

3. Repeat until you have exfoliated everywhere and the shaker is empty.

4. Run the water again to rinse off.

5. Dry off as usual.

Not only are you exfoliating and moisturising in one go, you are also saving water and sharing a bit of sustainable love for the planet (as well as your utilities bill).

How can that be anything but win-win?

Do Tell

Are you curious enough to give this a try? Please drop a comment and share your thoughts.

PS. The book below is what I was working on when the shower shaker idea came to me.

Create Your Own Bath Products With Essential Oils

Dandelions and Skincare - What Does Science Say?

When I started researching dandelion’s possible uses for skincare some years ago, I was pretty impressed at what this common plant has to offer.

Useless weed?

Ahem.

Think again.

Even science has declared dandelions 'warrant further study'.

(Science usually says this kind of thing when it finds evidence that traditional remedies aren’t all fairy tales and fantasy). I seem to be seeing that happening more and more these days.

And the truth is, there is a wealth of hidden treasure in this multifunctional and bountiful plant.

Shall we take a closer look at dandelions?

Dandelions Have Healing Properties

Science agrees the chemical composition of Taraxacum officinale (that's the botanical name for dandelion) makes it helpful and useful for numerous medical conditions and ailments.

Dandelions are

• Antioxidative

• Anti-inflammatory

• Antimicrobial (to some degree)

• Diuretic

• Tonic

All this medicinal magic from a 'weed' most homeowners are busy trying to banish from their gardens.

Extraction Methods are Up for Discussion

The most up to date scientific articles I have found on dandelions seem to be focused on examining which plant part has the most to offer in the way of actives.

Some studies are focused on the root while others are studying plant parts and their constituents in correlation to what time of year they are harvested before extraction.

Extraction methods are also being studied to determine which is most efficient. Ethanol extraction seems to be getting the most attention in the scientific community, although there are a few scientific souls looking into oil extraction. Check the links below for more information.

LisaLise Soothing Dandelion Balm Experiment

Pictured here: side-by-side infusions in 2 different oils. On the left, dandelion blossoms in sunflower oil and on the right, leaves-and-stems in sweet almond oil.

I combined the 2 finished macerations with a few other other plant-based soothing ingredients in a test balm (pictured at the top of this post).

This is a bit typical of the way I work - a combination of research, trying out ideas, and experimentation.

What started me on this dandelion research was a comment about dandelions for pain relief. Admittedly, the commenter was taking dandelion internally (by the drop as a tincture), but the idea of trying it in topical application was the basis for the infusions and a foot balm for tired aching feet.

You know when you have been on your feet all day and your feet start yelling at you to sit down? That kind of tired and aching.

I got such a great response from my extensive test team (foot left and foot right) that I have done many batches since and have even handed out a samples to a few willing testers.

Dandelion TIP

If you want to get max bang for your buck, try doing oil extractions with the alcohol intermediary method using all plant parts. I split up the parts of the planet so I can also combine oils.

Do Tell

Do you use dandelions in any of your skincare products? Please share what your experiences are in a comment below!

More About Dandelions: Nerdy Stuff

Dandelion (taracum officinale and T Mongolicum), Erik Yarnell, Kathy Abascal (LINK)

Taraxacum Officiale herb as an Antiinflammatory Medicine, American Journal of Advanced Drug (LINK)

Taraxacum- a review on its phytochemical and pharmacological profile (LINK)

Anti inflammatory evaluation of the methanolic extract of taraxacum officinale in LPS stimulated human umbilical vein endolethial cells (not oil extracted, but still interesting) (LINK)

Topical herbal Therapies and Alternative and Complementary Choice to Combat Acne (LINK)

Taraxacum: an overview (Science Direct) (LINK)

Qualitative and Quantitative analysis of phytochemicals of Taraxacum Officinale (LINK)

If you want to make a few balms with me, please check out the ebook below.

Book of Natural Balms - Volume 1

Make Your Own Botanical Tooth Powders - a New Publication

I’ve been working flat out on a different kind of publication concept and it’s all because of you. I wanted to be able to give you something you’ve been asking me about (repeatedly) for years: 100% customisable formulations.

(insert double take)

Yes, really.

It’s been a bit of a challenge and has taken me quite a few trials and tests (and a bit of tribulation), but I hope you’ll agree this new format makes it possible to jump straight in and get creating and making with locally available ingredients - regardless of where you are on the globe - and (almost) regardless of skill level!

After debating with myself what to call this concept and format, I finally decided on ‘Formulation Template’. (I know it may not seem like the most original name on the planet, but it describes the function pretty well, don’t you think?)

Pictured above is my very first.

What’s a LisaLise Formulation Template?

In order to offer you 100% customisable formulations, a set of ‘formulating rules’ needed to be created: a Formulation Template. Think of it as a specially designed framework that allows you total freedom with ingredients choices and enables you to make an endless variety of possibilities - as long as you stay within the framework.

This whole concept came about as a result of the many questions I have gotten over the years about ingredient substitutions.

• “I can’t get ingredient X where I live. What else can I use?”

• “Ingredient Y costs a packet where I live! Is there an alternative option?”

• “Can I substitute ingredient Z without messing up the stability?”

I’ve been there numerous times and think I can safely say I understand the frustration of not being able to source everything listed in a given formula.

Now, (Almost) Anything Goes

Having a Formulation Template in hand frees you of the frustration of having to substitute ingredients. Now you can start with ingredients you CAN source and build your formula from there.

Formulation Templates are created so you can customise to your hearts desire.

A Formulation Template consists of

• Main Formulation Template

• Detailed Guideline for Using the Template to Create Your Own Formulas

• Ingredients Information

• Formulating Notes & Tips

• Formulation Examples

• Bespoke Formulation(s)

Now, Put Your Formulating Power Where Your Mouth is

To kick off this new type of publication, I wanted to share some brand new subject matter – something I have never written about (publicly) before. It also happens to be one of my own personal care favorites because it allows for endless customisation possibilities: tooth powders.

You: Tooth powder, Lise? But is homemade tooth powder safe and effective enough?!

Me: Yes, and then some.

Botanical Oral Health

For generations, we have all been led to believe that commercially produced toothpaste (and other oral care products) are better, safer, and more effective than anything handcrafted.

That is, to put it diplomatically, a misunderstanding.

The world is full of powerful botanicals that can not only deliver superior function for overall oral health, but also target specific issues such as gingivitis, cavities, plaque formation, and bad breath.

Most of these herbs (and additional ingredients) boast a long history of traditional use that has been passed down through generations.

And here’s the best part: the majority of these botanicals and additional ingredients are readily available around the globe.

Happily, modern science has affirmed the efficacy of numerous natural ingredients for oral health with documented studies, many of which are listed in the (included) references section.

No Foam = No Function?

Here’s a little reveal from this publication. Foam is not required to cleanse teeth and gums properly. The detergents commonly added to commercial toothpastes are not there to clean the teeth, but are only present to help spread the paste in the mouth.

The ingredients section in Botanical Tooth Powders explains more.

Ready to Get Busy?

If you’re interested in learning a bit more about making your own botanical tooth powders, please visit this page.

LisaLise Newsletter

Sign up for the LisaLise Newsletter to stay in the loop about ingredients and processes. You’ll also get formulating tips & tricks, free formulas and how-to’s and loads of natural cosmetic inspiration.

Parabens Come From Plants

That title is true, you know. Parabens are naturally occurring in many plants. Like the one pictured here: Japanese honeysuckle (INCI: Lonicera japonica).

Paraben preservatives have been around and used in food, cosmetics, and pharmaceuticals for almost 100 years.

In more recent years, many natural cosmetics companies have been advertising their products as paraben-free, yet listed Japanese Honeysuckle extract on the ingredients list.

Hmmm.

I'm not sure whether to be annoyed with them for lying about their products being paraben-free or to be annoyed about parabens being publicly vilified for so long they must be hidden behind a plant extract name.

The truth is, parabens are a part of nature and as such, we ingest and apply them regularly.

There’s More Than One Paraben

Note the S. Parabens aren't just one ingredient. There are several parabens.

These are the most commonly used parabens in cosmetics:

• Ethylparaben

• Methylparaben

• Propylparaben

• Butylparaben

But there are even more.

The following parabens were approved for cosmetics earlier, but have (since 2014) been banned from use in the EU:

• Isopropylparaben

• Isobutylparaben

• Phenylparaben

• Benzylparaben

• Pentylparaben

And (believe it or not) there are even more parabens, but we're sticking to the cosmetics and food related ones in this post.

Where the Paraben Name Comes From

The name paraben is a condensation of the name Para-hydroxybenzoic acid. Parabens are esters of para-hydroxybenzoic acid.

What this means: para-hydroxybenzoic acid is chemically changed (reacted) by adding different types of alcohol to it (also called esterified).

Parabens in Nature

In nature, you will find parabens in abundance. They are naturally present in carrots, cocoa, vanilla, strawberries, and grapes. Methylparaben is found in blueberries, where it acts as a natural antimicrobial agent. You'll also find parabens in olives, coconut, ylang ylang, black currants, and peaches.

There's even more, but I'm sure you get the drift.

Even though they are naturally occurring in many botanicals, paraben preservatives are not produced by extracting plants. That would be far too pricey a process to be viable. The paraben preservatives for cosmetics and foods are made in labs using manmade chemicals.

Is this Scary?

According to some, it gives cause for concern. According to others, it doesn't.

Science doesn't agree on every point and is continually studying and reassessing, so I'm going to give you a few of the different (and more current) statements I have been able to find.

Cosmeticsinfo.org writes:

"Para-hydroxybenzoic acid (PHBA) occurs naturally in many fruits and vegetables, such as cucumbers, cherries, carrots, blueberries, and onions, and is also formed naturally in your body by the breakdown of certain amino acids. The parabens used in cosmetics are identical to those found in nature, and are quickly eliminated by the body."

(LINK)

Robert Tisserand, author of Essential Oil Safety, wrote an article in 2009 entitled The Paraben Parable where he states

"The paraben “scare” was based on the fact that parabens were found in the breast tissue of women with breast cancer, even though no causal association was established. Presumably milk might be found in cancerous breast tissue too, but does that mean that milk causes breast cancer? No, the fundamental reason for banishing parabens was that the popular press decided that parabens very likely caused breast cancer."

Read the entire article here.

Dene Godfrey, author of Preservation and Preservatives is quoted in a 2009 article in Cosmetics Design saying that much of the bad press about parabens stems from a study published in 2004 that was "seriously flawed". (LINK)

The Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) confirmed (after yet another review of) the safety of parabens in cosmetics in 2013 that, dosed as recommended, parabens are still safe for use in cosmetics. (LINK)

Some of the more recent studies are more cautious. This 2021 paper 'Parabens as chemicals of emerging concern in the environment and humans: A review' states

"..recent research indicates that parabens may act as endocrine-disrupting chemicals (EDCs) and thus, are considered as chemicals of emerging concern that have adverse human health effects."

(LINK)

The most recent (2021) information from the (European) Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) (specifically on propylparaben) concludes that it comes down to a question of dose:

"The available data on propylparaben provide some indications for potential endocrine effects. However, the current level of evidence is not sufficient to regard it as an endocrine disrupting substance, or to derive a toxicological point of departure based on endocrine disrupting properties for use in human health risk assessment."

(LINK)

The Amended Safety Assessment of Parabens as Used in Cosmetics, 2020 states:

"The Panel concluded that 20 of the 21 parabens included in this report are safe in cosmetics in the present practices of use and concentration described in this safety assessment when the sum of the total parabens in any given formulation does not exceed 0.8%."

(LINK)

In contrast, the USA continues to use parabens that have been banned in the EU since 2014. This article from 2019 by Oliver Milman in the Guardian states:

“Generally, the EU has got it right. In the US, we have a strong favouritism towards companies and manufacturers, to the extent that public health and the environment is being harmed. The pendulum has swung in an extreme way and it’s really going to take a general awakening by the public.”

(LINK)

Conclusion: Too Much Confusion

It's no wonder many have steered clear of parabens over recent years. Some parabens are completely banned in some countries and allowed in others.

They continue to be 'lumped together' as a single thing which makes the question of 'paraben safety' confusing for everyone. Which paraben are we talking about, and at which usage rate? I can understand how some might find it easier to just say no to all of them as it takes a serious amount of research to stay up to date with the latest findings. And since paraben preservatives have been around for almost 100 years, there's enough information and studies to get stuck into!

I have worked with parabens for numerous years and would have to dig deep in both my notes and memory to find a single occasion where they have failed in a formulation. I don't recall that they ever have. There's no denying that consistently stable and able preservatives makes formulation work even more enjoyable - who doesn't love a stable workhorse preservation system?

That said, I have been so immersed in Hurdle Technology in recent years that I rarely use any 'added' preservatives in my formulations any more.

All Natural Please

In general, I am a fan of all natural everything, so please allow me to share the recipe for a refreshingly tasty all-natural paraben-rich concoction.

Paraben Smoothie

• 20 Strawberries

• 1 cup Coconut Milk

• 2 Peaches

• Handful of ice cubes

Whiz in a blender until smooth and enjoy topped with a dollop of strawberry ice cream.

Enjoy!

More About Parabens

Paraben's bad press are based on flawed science: Dene Godfrey cited in Cosmetics Design (LINK)

CosmeticInfo.org on parabens (LINK)

L. Cassiday, The preservative wars, AOCS Feb 2013 (LINK)

Y. Naseer, There is nothing wrong with parabens, Illumination 2021 (LINK)

D. Godfrey, Cosmetic Formulation, Chapter: Preservation and Preservatives, 2019 (LINK)

Chemical Safety Facts.org on Parabens (2022) (LINK)

Want to avoid preservatives altogether in your cosmetics?

The bundle offer below shows you how to get busy using Hurdle Technology in your own cosmetics.

Self Preserving BUNDLE

Rosy Salt for Shower Shakers

There doesn’t seem to be any limit to what you can use rose petals for.

Pictured: my latest addition to my current summer-themed shower shaker: Ground (dried) wildcrafted rose petals mixed with salt. It doesn’t even take a lot of rose to bring about this gorgeous pink color.

This perfectly pink ingredient could in effect be used solo as a body scrub, or add additional ingredients to make a more sophisticated scrub with botanical powders and a combination of salts.

It would also work well as the basis for a classic exfoliating body scrub in a fragrant oil base – packaged up with a little spoon.

Replace the salt with sugar and you have an equally fabulous ingredient that could either be used to bake cookies, or used as a sweet rose lip scrub, or a luxurious rose body scrub.

Do Tell

Do you use dried rose petals in your skincare products? What is your favorite way of using them?

Psst: The book below uses loads of different botanicals for bath products.

Create Your Own Bath Products With Essential Oils

Let's Go Green and Clean with Spirulina

Spirulina is a fabulous ingredient. I know because I've been using it for years as an ingredient in various face cleansers.

Although spirulina has mostly been studied (and used) as a food supplement, it has a lot to offer with topical use as well.

Let's take a closer look at this dark green substance and see what it's all about.

Spirulina is a Nutrient Powerhouse

Spirulina is a microscopic blue-green algae that is composed of 2 types of cyanobacterium: Arthrospira platensis and Arthrospira maxima.

Spirulina is cultivated for use as food supplement because, among other things, it is a complete protein (read: it contains all the amino acids).

It is also rich in gamma linolenic acid (GLA), contains a slew of vitamins (B1, B2, B3, B6, B9, A, E, and C), and boasts a content of trace minerals.

In short: it's a nutrient powerhouse.

What Science Says about Spirulina

The documentation I have been able to find about spirulina is that 'it causes no adverse effects' (with internal use).

This is of course positive, but in truth, I was expecting to find study after study documenting that spirulina did everything from cure ailments to provide a veritable fountain of youth to all who use it.

But I guess it's (still) a challenge to get modern science all excited about all natural ingredients.

The US National Library of Medicine states that blue green algae is:

• Possibly effective for high blood pressure

• Might lower blood sugar levels

But also has some precautions and concludes:

"There is interest in using blue-green algae for a number of purposes, but there isn't enough reliable information to say whether it might be helpful."

(link)

Really? Not enough reliable information?

Despite this rather reserved statement, it can't be ignored that spirulina was chosen as a food source for American astronauts on space missions. (REF)

Spirulina for Topical Use

If you follow the 'if A, then B' line of logic, the many proteins and nutrients spirulina contains provides it with the ability to protect collagen and enhance the skins elastin. In skin care products, spirulina is indeed characterised as an 'anti-aging' ingredient.

The recommended topical uses for spirulina mostly involve incorporating it into masks, wraps, hair treatments, and other spa-related treatments. I haven't seen it used as an addition to leave-on products such as creams or moisturisers very much (come to think of it - not at all!)

As to how it has behaved in my cleansers, there are some cons, but there are certainly also many pros.

Below are my personal observations.

Spirulina Topical Use Pros

• Spirulina provides a feel that is truly silky and luxurious on the skin.

• Because of the intense color, there is never any doubt about whether or not the product is completely rinsed off.

• Despite the intense color, it rinses off easily and doesn't stain sinks, tiles etc.

• After cleansing (regardless of the type of cleanser I have used with it), my skin often feels so 'nourished', I have often forgotten to apply moisturiser.

Spirulina Topical Use Cons

• The color is so dark that takes some getting used to. Not a lot of people could look at a dark-green-bordering-on-black substance and associate it with cleansing. It even took me a bit of time (the jar pictured above is a clay and oil cleanser from 2014).

• Because of the intense color, it seems to take extra rinsing to remove the product completely (which could almost count as a pro if you think about it). I have found it best to apply my spirulina-rich cleansers before stepping into a shower where rinsing is easier.

SPIRULINA TIP

Look for spirulina that has not been heat processed for a product with a maximum nutrients.

Do Tell

Have you worked with spirulina in your cosmetics? What is your favorite use of it?

Find More Posts with Green Cleansers Below

Make your own preservative free ingredients and cleansers with the bundle offer below.

Self Preserving BUNDLE