How to Make Conkers Powder

Last Fall, I got busy collecting and drying conkers so I could play around with some of the different possibilites these all natural saponin-rich plants have to offer.

In this post, I showed you how to use the fresh (or dried) nuts as a laundry detergent. Today, we’re going to make conkers powder. Why do we need conkers powder? Think cleansing bars, shampoo bars, cleansers, masks, scrubs and more.

Although this is a teensy bit labour intensive, it is the kind of thing you can make in ‘larger amounts’ and then store to be used as needed.

Not to Be Confused with Chestnuts

Conkers are also known as Horse Chestnuts. Their botanical name is Aesculus hippocastanum. TIP: Don’t confuse conkers with edible chestnuts: castenea sativa. These are not the same plant and cannot be interchanged.

Step 1: Shell and Dry Conkers

To make conkers powder, you will need thoroughly dried conkers. This can be done by removing the outer hull, lightly crushing/breaking up the conkers, and placing them on a baking tray. Leave in the oven on low heat for a few hours until fully dry.

I have found that the thin brown outer layer can to some degree be peeled away during the initial processing, but this is not strictly necessary. In some instances, it will fall away as the nuts dry, but some can be almost impossible to remove. The more of the brown layer that can be removed, the smoother the result. If you can’t get the brown off, don’t worry about it — much can be sifted out at the end.

Above: lightly crushed dried conkers - ready to be processed.

Step 2: Whack Conkers

This can be done with any number of whacking implements. In this batch, I have employed my husband and his precision-whacking hammer.

To contain as much as possible, place the conkers in a tightly woven clean cloth, twist shut, place on a hard surface. Note: dried conkers are VERY hard and the act of whacking them can mar kitchen surfaces, so do take care to protect your tables/countertops.

The conkers need to be broken up as much as possible without pulverising them completely. Here’s what this batch looked like after whacking.

Step 3: Grind Conkers

If you happen to have a home-sized flour mill of some type, you might try placing the wacked conkers in the mill for final processing. This is something I have been trying to find in a decent (read: small enough) size for my own needs). If you don’t have a flour mill, use a dedicated coffee grinder for this next step.

Place the whacked conkers in the grinder. Start by pulsing several times, then grind as finely as possible.

Step 4: Sift Conkers

Depending on how much of the brown layer was attached to your conkers, this step may take a shorter or longer time.

Finish by passing the ground conkers through a sieve a couple of times to get as smooth a powder as possible. Any leftovers (like you see pictured below) can be used as a laundry detergent (see this post)

Step 5: Store Conkers Powder

Find a suitable airtight container for your and store the powder dry and out of direct sunlight.

Next Up

Next time we look at conkers, we’ll use the powder to make a shampoo bar.

Want to read more about natural cleansers on the blog? Check the selection of posts below.

Wash your Hair Backwards

The idea of washing your hair backwards conjures up all sorts of strange images, doesn't it? Now, before you start thinking I am pulling your leg, let me explain. This concept has its roots in the Austrian born Founder of cosmetic company Aveda, Horst Rechelbacher who recommended 'washing your hair backwards'.

It's an intriging idea, but actually – once you think about it – it's quite logical (I'll get into the logical part in a minute). From the first time I tried it, my (fine, straight, short) hair really loved this method.

Here's a description of the process.

1. Apply Oil

Apply about a half a teaspoon of sweet almond or jojoba oil to dry hair and distribute as evenly as possible. Give your scalp a gentle massage. Leave the for a few minutes, then rinse.

2. Apply Conditioner

Now, apply a hair conditioner, allow to sit for a few minutes, then rinse.

3. Wash Hair

Wash your hair using your preferred shampoo. Rinse throughly.

4. Final Rinse

This is my 'little extra' addition to the equation. I've done this for years and it leaves my hair silky soft. Finish by rinsing your hair with a final rinse.

Here is a super easy option for final rinsing:

Make a mug of herbal infusion with your favorite herbs. Simply place herbs in a tea filter, pour boiled water over and allow to steep for a few minutes. Discard herbs and use liquid to pour over hair after shampooing. Herbs that are great for hair and scalp: rosemary, lavender, chamomile (great for light hair), rose (because it smells divine), mint (great for itchy scalp).

So Why Does This Method Work?

The application of oil has a twofold function: Oil attracts dirt, so the initial application helps to loosen dirt. The massage both calms and stimulates the scalp, assisting the oil to nourish both hair and scalp. The conditioner helps to 'loosen' the oil. The hair and scalp will absorb whatever nourishment they need from the oils and the shampoo removes the superfluous oil, taking the dirt with it. You may also find that your shampoo has a richer and more dense lather when you wash.

I have over the years tried leaving out step 2 and – for my hair, it works quite well to skip directly from oil to shampoo.

If this all sounds.. well, backwards, then all I can say is, give it a go and see if it works for you.

Do Tell

I'd love to hear from you if you decide to try this method.

PS. The book below shows you how to make your own wonderful shampoo bars.

Make Your Own Naturally Balanced Shampoo Bars

Cleansing with Soapwort - Purist Style

A few posts back, we took a look at soapwort and its content of saponins (all-natural cleansing action). Today, we’re going to put this pretty plant to the test and see how well it lives up to its name.

The Process

I picked these on one of my walks and brought them straight home for processing. After allowing them to wilt for a short spell (so any residing ‘small visitors’ could make their escape), the plants were inspected and any less-than-perfect parts were removed. The one root that came along was lightly scrubbed under running water to remove any dirt. (FYI: it is the roots that contain most of the saponins so this root was a little bonus).

The 3 plants were then cut up and placed in the bowl you see above, covered with freshly boiled distilled water, then placed under a tight fitting lid to steep for an hour.

After straining, the liquid was weighed and the suitable amount of broad spectrum preservative was added (for this batch I used Euxyl PE 9010).

The soapwort ‘wash’ was then transferred to a foam bottle. Below is a picture of the foam (and bottle). It’s not long lasting lather like you would see in a commercially made product, but this foam stayed foamy long enough for me to position the spoon and bottle, check the lighting, find the angle I wanted to photograph, and take the picture.

Putting it to the Test

I tried this all natural ‘purist-style’ cleanser as a facial cleanser, body wash and even hair wash, and the results were so good I went back for more. At the time of writing this, I have been using soapwort infusion as my sole shampoo and body wash for 6 weeks. The only reason I haven’t also been using it for face is because I am testing some other cleansers for facial use.

The scent of this liquid is the only thing I have been trying to ‘adjust’ - not that the fragrance is bad - it’s just a bit ‘boring’. The scent is a combination of woodsy and herby all at the same time. The flowers have the most deliciously sweet and floral fragrance, but this unfortunately doesn’t transfer during an infusion.

I have made subsequent batches with combinations of herbs and flowers and will be sharing about these in future posts. Meantime, I can say that soapwort definitely lives up to its name. My hair has never felt so soft and clean without a trace of dryness.

Do Tell

Have you ever tried to wash your face and hair with a plant infusion? Please share in a comment below

Soapwort - An All Natural Surfactant

There are plants growing all around the globe that contain saponins. The ones you see pictured above are an example.

Saponins Explained

The word Saponins comes from Latin and breaks down to ‘sapon’ = ‘soap’ and ‘in’ = ‘one of’. Saponins are organic chemicals with loads of useful properties. As they are both oil and water soluble, they are useful for cleaning. They also have an ability to create foam when in water and agitated.

Plants rich in saponins are particularly worthy of exploration if you are interested in an all natural source for cleansing skin, washing hair, or even doing a bit of laundry.

The saponin content of the plant we are looking at today is concentrated in its roots, measuring in at levels of up to 20%, placing Saponaria officinalis among the more saponin rich plants.

And although the roots have the greatest concentration, there is also some cleansing action to be had from the leaves and stems. The flowers have an appealingly sweet (almost candy-like) floral fragrance.

About the Name(s)

The Saponaria part of Saponaria Officials is a bit of a giveaway that saponins are a key feature of this plant. The Officinalis part of the name is also worth noting. Any time you see a botanical name that ends with Officinalis, it means that plant has a history of medicinal use.

I normally refer to this plant as Soapwort, but you can choose your favorite from any of the names on this list, as they all refer to the same plant:

• Bouncing Bet

• Sweet Betty

• Wild Sweet William

• Dog Cloves

• Old Maids’ Pink

• Fuller’s Herb

• Fuller’s Grass

• Foam Dock

• Gill-Run-By-The-Street Saponary

• Lady-By-The-Gate

• Crow Soap

• Hedge Pink

• Farewell Summer

• Soap Root

• Latherwort

• Bruisewort

• Soapwort

There may even be more – this is what I found on a quick search of the botanical name.

Historical Uses of Soapwort

External Use

Soapwort has been used throughout history for treatment of skin conditions such as eczema, psoriasis, acne, and boils. One traditional treatment was to make a decoction (boiling dried roots/twigs in water for 15-20 minutes) and applying the liquid to skin. This was used to relieving itching.

American settlers used this same decoction as a gentle wash to soothe rashes from exposure to poison ivy. A traditional gypsy remedy consisted of applying a soaproot-soaked poultice to a bruised area or black eye to reduce discoloration. (I've never tried this, but it would be most interesting to try).

Internal use

Soapwort’s anti-inflammatory properties made it a popular tea for ailments such as gout and rheumatism. The root is believed to 'encourage bile flow', reducing pains in connection with gallstones. Even today, dried soapwort root is sold in a nationwide drug store chain in Denmark as an herbal tea ‘to aid digestion’ (complete with warning not to exceed 3 cups a day).

It Can Also Do Your Face, Hair, and Even Laundry

Soapwort is both a gentle and powerful cleanser. It doesn't take a very strong concentration to function as an effective shampoo, face cleanser or even laundry detergent.

For laundry, soapwort is particularly suitable for delicates. Soapwort decoction is still used today by textile restorers to cleanse and revitalize fragile fabrics (think museum pieces). Soapwort is also cultivated and used in the Middle East for washing woolens.

Soapwort for Skin Care

The first many years I worked with soapwort, I experimented quite a bit with traditional decoctions, trying out different concentrations, boiling times, filtering methods, and preservatives. My goal was to create the perfect addition to a gentle face cleanser.

A soapwort decoction has a light brown color and smells quite pleasant in a 'down-home, old-fashioned' kind of way. The best way I can describe the scent is 'a mixture of wood and soap flakes'. Although it's quite appealing and smells, well, clean, the soapwort scent is dominant enough to have to be taken into consideration when including it in a product.

Even though it has not been the star ingredient in any of the custom products I have made, it has been an invaluable ‘helper’ ingredient. I tried replacing it with hydrosols and/or floral waters – just to see if I could 'slim down my work process' – but the difference in the end product was tangible every time.

Next Up

We’re going to go roots with this plant and make a natural cleanser worthy of even the most dedicated purists!

More About Soapwort

Phytochemical analysis of Soapwort shoots and flowers essential oils by NCBI

Green Clean Surfactants - Here’s One

I wrote about this surfactant some time ago, and while updating this post (as I am in the process of doing for my entire blog), I discovered that the creators (and manufacturers) of this ingredient appear to have revised/expanded, and updated it.

Spoiler alert: it looks to be even greener than it was before.

The Name

Ingredients manufacturers will sometimes just use the INCI name (which can be rather long and boring), but this particular surfactant has gotten a bit of love in the name department. If you try and pronounce the INCI name, you’ll see why this one has been graced with a common name.

Common name: Suganate 160NC

INCI name: Sodium Laurylglucosides Hydroxypropylsulfonate

CAS number: 742087-49-6

The Technical Stuff

Suganate (which is kind of a cool common name) is a series of products that the manufacturer describes as ‘high foaming sulfonated surfactants’. These are based on (naturally derived) alkyl polyglucosides (or APGs).

APGs are a class of non-ionic surfactants derived from sugars and fatty alcohols and are popular with companies focusing on natural.

Suganate 160NC has plant-based origins – namely coconut and corn.

The manufacturer Colonial Chemical is based in the USA, has been around for about 3 decades, and provides these points about Suganate 160NC

• Sulfate free

• Non-irritating to skin and eyes (think foaming baby wash or shampoo)

• Safe for environment

• Biodegradable under any conditions (!)

• 100% based on natural sources

They back up their claims with documentation.

While they're not lying, you could also say the same thing about a few other surfactants. The term 'naturally derived' (or natural sources) means the ingredient has all natural origins but is chemically altered in order to become what it is.

Is it Green Enough for You?

Now, if you're a hard-core stickler for ‘all natural’ and ‘as unprocessed as possible’, then this ingredient might (still) not be green enough for you.

However.

The fact remains that you can't really make a surfactant without doing 'chemical alterations'. So unless you want to disregard everything except plant saponins such as soapnut and soaproot, chemical alterations are part of surfactant life.

If you are looking to formulate low-irritation shampoo and body wash products with foaming ability, this surfactant definitely fills the bill.

The part that really interests me about this ingredient is what it does after it gets washed down the drain. Suganate 160 NC appears to tick all the right boxes in that it is biodegradable under any conditions.

I still haven’t worked with it and admit it has been on my to do list to procure a sample of this ingredient and give it a try for longer than I care to admit, but it warms my heart to see more manufacturers taking a holistic approach to making natural and environmentally friendly ingredients.

Manufacturer Free Formulations

If you are interested in working with this surfactant (along with some of the other products by Colonial Chemical), visit their formulations page for free inspirational formulations for loads of personal care products, pet care products, and more.

Speaking of Bathtime

Want to make your own bath products with essential oils? The book pictured below can help. Just click the picture for more information.

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