How to Make Vanilla Oil Using the Sun Infusion Method

Over the years, I've made many oil infusions using numerous kinds of materials and methods. Today I'm going to share a classic, beautifully fragrant multifunctional oil with you using a classic method.

Sun infused vanilla oil is easy to make, fun to do, and smells so delicious it's hard not to love.

Here's what you need

• Vanilla beans

• A neutral base oil (I typically use Sweet Almond Oil or Apricot Kernel Oil)

• Sanitised jar with tight-fitting lid (canning jars are perfect)

Raw Materials Matter

I know it can be tempting to buy bargain-priced ingredients - especially when it comes to vanilla beans. Bargain beans cost far less than the pricey stuff. My pocketbook can attest to this fact.

But the good stuff is pricier for a reason. I've tested this several times.

Here's a vanilla bean comparison test.

The bottom (bigger) vanilla bean costs over twice as much as the 2 top beans. The beans at the top definitely smell like vanilla, and if I hadn't done a side by side comparison, I might never have been the wiser.

Here's how I put them to the test.

Sniff Test

This test was quite simple: Sniff, then note down immediate reaction

Bargain Beans: yup, that's definitely vanilla

Pricey Beans: intoxicating vanilla-delicious nose candy

Slice Test

On the left: pricey beans after slicing

On the right: bargain beans after slicing

The beans were cut right where you see them. The plump juiciness of the pricier bean is pretty evident when you look at the cutting board (and the nose test is even more evident during the slicing process)

Let's Make Sun-Infused Vanilla Oil

• 1 part vanilla beans

• 10 parts oil (I used sweet almond)

Measure your ingredients by weight for accuracy. I made small batches for this comparison test using 5 grams of vanilla to 50 grams of oil for each batch.

The Sun Infusion Method

1. Slice beans

2. Place in sanitised jar

3. Pour oil into jar

4. Seal jar

5. Place the jar in a windowsill or similar sun-warmed spot to infuse (temperature 24° - 28°C / 75° - 82°F).

6. Agitate daily

7. Infuse for 10-14 days

8. Strain

Note: If you live in a very warm climate, you may need to place your container away from direct sunlight (so it achieves the mentioned temperature rather than 'cooks' due to too much warmth).

You: That timeframe sounds wrong! Normally, sun-infusing oils takes WEEKS! Not a mere 14 days?!

Me: In this particular instance, normal rules are out the window. You see, vanilla beans are magical. They need only 14 days (and the right temperature) for a good sun infusion.

Honest.

Now, to be fair, you could leave your vanilla beans as long as you please, but in my experience, 14 days of sun-infusion provides the perfect depth of fragrance without ‘taxing’ the oil. It is a bit of a balancing act to use the sun infusion method optimally.

Straining and Batch Comparison

Here's a straining tip that is particularly useful for vanilla-infused oil.

Use 2 large tea filters (the kind large enough to make a pot of tea)

1. Place one tea filter inside of another

2. Roll the top down a bit so the filters do not risk separating.

3. Place the filters inside a clean container (beakers are perfect because you can pour directly from them when you're done)

4. Pour the oil into the filters

5. Lift the filter bag up and let strain completely

If necessary, filter again (it usually isn't necessary if you 'double bag')

Transfer the oil to your final container

Rejoice at your expertly strained sun-infused vanilla oil

TIP

There is no need to discard the vanilla bits just yet. Grind them up and use them in a batch of cookies, or pop the well-strained bits into a jar of sugar and leave to infuse. Shake the jar regularly. The sugar can be used in baked goods such as cookies or cakes.

Comparison Test

I'll bet you have guessed which infusion came out best, and you would be absolutely right. The less expensive vanilla beans produced a very nice vanilla-scented oil, but the pricier vanilla beans produced a decadently rich, warm, luxuriously fragrant oil.

Where to Use Vanilla Infused Oil

It's almost more fitting to ask where not to use this lovely oil. Vanilla-infused oil is a fabulous addition to

• Body Lotion

• Lip Balm

• Body Butter

• Body Balms

• Face Oil

• Body Oil

USAGE TIP

While this fragrance is absolutely decadent in small amounts, it can be a bit overwhelming if it is the dominant scent in a product that is applied all over the body. Not everyone likes to smell like vanilla cookies fresh out of the oven.

To avoid the cookie scent profile, try combining your vanilla-infused oil with a few choice essential oils to make a more complex fragrance for your body oils and butters.

Enjoy!

TIP

If you follow good manufacturing practice, it is possible to use your handcrafted extracts in cosmetics for sale. The e-book below can help you get set up and organised.

Good Manufacturing Practice for the Artisan Lab

Also available in Spanish!

Buenas prácticas de fabricación para el laboratorio artesanal

Easy Double Cleansing Tip

Pictured above: my current cleansing oil and my oatmeal and milk ‘syndet’ (read: synthetic detergent) cleansing bar. The bar has a skin friendly pH and consists of my fave super-mild ingredients for sensitive and dry skin. The oil is a blend of castor, coriander seed (carrier) oil and açai oil.

Today, I’m going to share a tip on how to combine traditional oil cleansing with a cleansing bar and create your own 2-in-one easy peasy double cleansing routine. This is great for sensitive and dry skin (and for those who love oil cleansing but hate the cleanup).

Here’s how I double cleanse using these 2:

1. Apply cleansing oil to dry skin. Massage skin gently using circular movements

2. Wet hands and create lather with bar. Notice how extra creamy the lather is with the addition of the oil on your hands.

3. Apply lather to face and massage skin gently using circular motions. The lather will become even more creamy as you massage your skin.

4. Rinse off with comfortably warm water

There are 2 things you achieve with this method

1. Super gentle cleansing for sensitive skin

2. Super easy cleanup

I tried taking a picture of the latheriness of this combination but this picture doesn’t really do it justice. By the time I had rinsed and dried my one hand to take the photo, a lot of the lather was already gone. But you can get an idea. The lather does look a little green because the açai oil really colors a lot.

Make it Your Own

Use your cleansing oil of choice and combine it with any gentle face cleansing bar you like.

The book below is beginner friendly (available in Spanish) and has formulas for cleansing oils for all skin types.

Cucumber and Rose Hydrosol

This may seem like an odd pair for a distillate, but it worked beautifully. Today, I’m going to walk you through the steps I took to make this hydrosol.

Combining Raw Materials in a Distillate

Mixing ingredients like this is called co-distilling. There are really no rules for co-distillation. You can mix as many different things as you please. A colleague of mine combines both herbs/plants and fruits/vegetables to create stunning results. If you forage for ingredients, it can be a great way to make use of smaller amounts, but co-distillation also allows you to maximise the synergy of the ingredients you are working with.

This particular combo came about quite by chance actually. As I was preparing to make a cucumber hydrosol last summer (while still in Denmark), my lovely neighbour (who knew I both love and use roses for my skincare) popped by with a small basketful of freshly picked roses from their garden. It was a mix of different kinds of roses and the total amount was as you see above. They were quickly incorporated into my distillate.

Small Batch Preparation

This distillation (as all of my previous ones) was made in my Air Still. Preparation of the raw materials is pretty much the same as it is for making your own glycerites; use quality (organically grown) ingredients in prime condition. Discard any bits that are damaged.

For this small batch (about 500 ml yield), I used 2 cucumbers and a handful of roses.

Even though I use organic, I remove some peel from the cucumbers. This is just my preference - you don’t have to remove the peel. I got into the habit of removing the peel from cucumbers when cooking (they are generally more bitter tasting than the flesh) and this just carried over to my distillation.

Layering Ingredients

For this distillation, I placed the heaviest ingredients on the bottom. This isn’t a rule — you can combine and layer any way you like. I have had success placing heavy slices of pineapple on top of a bed of light herbs as well as the other way around.

Pictured below, cucumber in place, ready for roses and then my ‘copper birds nest’ on top before placing the lid on.

For details on the still and all the bits I use (and how I have modified them), please see this post.

How the Hydrosol Turned Out

Both the function and fragrance of this hydrosol turned out as a lovely marriage of rose and cucumber - The fragrance was not easy to distinguish as either one ingredient or the other. It was both fresh and floral - and it felt both refreshing and soothing to use. As the liquid matured, so did the fragrance. This is one hydrosol that got compliments from my husband every time I used it.

Do Tell

Have you ever combined ingredients to make a hydrosol? Which were your favorites?

Check below for more posts about hydrosols and distillates on this blog

Dandelions and Skincare - What Does Science Say?

When I started researching dandelion’s possible uses for skincare some years ago, I was pretty impressed at what this common plant has to offer.

Useless weed?

Ahem.

Think again.

Even science has declared dandelions 'warrant further study'.

(Science usually says this kind of thing when it finds evidence that traditional remedies aren’t all fairy tales and fantasy). I seem to be seeing that happening more and more these days.

And the truth is, there is a wealth of hidden treasure in this multifunctional and bountiful plant.

Shall we take a closer look at dandelions?

Dandelions Have Healing Properties

Science agrees the chemical composition of Taraxacum officinale (that's the botanical name for dandelion) makes it helpful and useful for numerous medical conditions and ailments.

Dandelions are

• Antioxidative

• Anti-inflammatory

• Antimicrobial (to some degree)

• Diuretic

• Tonic

All this medicinal magic from a 'weed' most homeowners are busy trying to banish from their gardens.

Extraction Methods are Up for Discussion

The most up to date scientific articles I have found on dandelions seem to be focused on examining which plant part has the most to offer in the way of actives.

Some studies are focused on the root while others are studying plant parts and their constituents in correlation to what time of year they are harvested before extraction.

Extraction methods are also being studied to determine which is most efficient. Ethanol extraction seems to be getting the most attention in the scientific community, although there are a few scientific souls looking into oil extraction. Check the links below for more information.

LisaLise Soothing Dandelion Balm Experiment

Pictured here: side-by-side infusions in 2 different oils. On the left, dandelion blossoms in sunflower oil and on the right, leaves-and-stems in sweet almond oil.

I combined the 2 finished macerations with a few other other plant-based soothing ingredients in a test balm (pictured at the top of this post).

This is a bit typical of the way I work - a combination of research, trying out ideas, and experimentation.

What started me on this dandelion research was a comment about dandelions for pain relief. Admittedly, the commenter was taking dandelion internally (by the drop as a tincture), but the idea of trying it in topical application was the basis for the infusions and a foot balm for tired aching feet.

You know when you have been on your feet all day and your feet start yelling at you to sit down? That kind of tired and aching.

I got such a great response from my extensive test team (foot left and foot right) that I have done many batches since and have even handed out a samples to a few willing testers.

Dandelion TIP

If you want to get max bang for your buck, try doing oil extractions with the alcohol intermediary method using all plant parts. I split up the parts of the planet so I can also combine oils.

Do Tell

Do you use dandelions in any of your skincare products? Please share what your experiences are in a comment below!

More About Dandelions: Nerdy Stuff

Dandelion (taracum officinale and T Mongolicum), Erik Yarnell, Kathy Abascal (LINK)

Taraxacum Officiale herb as an Antiinflammatory Medicine, American Journal of Advanced Drug (LINK)

Taraxacum- a review on its phytochemical and pharmacological profile (LINK)

Anti inflammatory evaluation of the methanolic extract of taraxacum officinale in LPS stimulated human umbilical vein endolethial cells (not oil extracted, but still interesting) (LINK)

Topical herbal Therapies and Alternative and Complementary Choice to Combat Acne (LINK)

Taraxacum: an overview (Science Direct) (LINK)

Qualitative and Quantitative analysis of phytochemicals of Taraxacum Officinale (LINK)

If you want to make a few balms with me, please check out the ebook below.

Book of Natural Balms - Volume 1

How to Make a Glycerite with Fresh Cucumber

Today we’re revisiting one of the first glycerites I shared on the blog and a kickstarter to my passion for making and using glycerites with fresh foods in my cosmetics. I’ve pepped up the original pictures and added a few extra tips, so let’s get started!

Why Glycerites?

Glycerine extracts (or glycerites) are useful alternatives for folks who may not want to use tinctures (alcohol extracts) in their products, but glycerites also have additional advantages. Glycerine (also spelled glycerin) is an excellent humectant that doubles as an ideal solvent for many botanical constituents.

In short: a glycerite is glycerine with 'added botanical power' – the perfect addition to your lotions, creams, skin tonics and mists, serums, cleansers, and more.

Let’s make a fresh cucumber glycerite!

Water to Glycerine - How Much?

If you follow classic herbalist glycerite making instructions, you’ll find a common ratio of water to glycerine is 50/50, so for this batch, we're going to take our inspiration from there.

Fresh cucumber is about 96% water, so the percentages for this batch are

• Glycerine 50.0 %

• Cucumber 49.4 %

• Preservative 0.6 %

Calculate the Batch

I am making a relatively small batch here (200 grams), so my batch amounts look like this.

• Glycerine: 100.0 grams

• Cucumber (organic): 98.8 grams

• Preservative (I used benzyl alcohol): 1.2 grams

Method

1. Sanitize your workspace, containers and equipment and pop on protective gloves

2. Peel and slice the cucumber (I peel even organic cucumbers - but that's just me. Feel free to include the peel if you like. Remember to thoroughly wash/rinse the cucumber before slicing if you include the peel)

3. Weigh cucumber

4. Weigh and add glycerine

5. Weigh and add preservative

6. Give the mixture a stir

7. Place lid on container

8. Keep container away from direct light in a not too warm area

9. Agitate daily for 5-10 days

Straining

If you used cucumber slices as I have here, you’ll notice that the slices start looking a bit shrivelled. That’s a good sign that your glycerite is ready for straining.

Before straining, be sure your equipment and containers are sanitised. (the funnel you are using is equipment too!)

1. Place a funnel into a container and line the funnel with a filter. Coffee filters are fine but you could also use a finely woven piece of muslin/cotton. In this picture. I am using a doubled-up piece of silk jersey.

2. Strain the mixture

3. Bottle

4. Label

Storage and Use

Store your glycerite cool and dark and use in your cosmetics within 6 months of making.

Glycerites can (and will) last much longer if made and stored properly, but I generally recommend using a handcrafted glycerite within 6 months of making.

Why?

Because when it is used as an ingredient in a cosmetic, that cosmetic is expected to have a certain shelf life.

Enjoy!

Want more glycerite making information? The book below might be just the thing you’re looking for.

The Art of Making Glycerites for Cosmetics

How to Make a Fresh Blueberry Glycerite

This is an updated version of my original post from 2016.

Working with fresh fruits for cosmetic extracts (particularly blueberries) can be a bit tricky, but with careful attention to a few specific things (which I am going to share with you here), you'll be enjoying your own fabulous blueberry glycerite in under a week.

Let’s get busy!

LisaLise's Blueberry Glycerite Formula

Ingredient	Percent
Glycerine	50.0
Fresh blueberries	49.4
Preservative	0.6

Calculate your batch size. I have made a relatively small portion here.

Prep Tips

Blueberries can be sneaky. Sometimes a berry getting ready to go wonky will hide in the bunch. Since we don't want to add any wonky or even semi-wonky berries to our lovely glycerite, every single berry should be carefully examined. This may seem a bit tedious, but it will help ensure a successful result.

Use only firm, plump, pristine berries that are bursting with blueberry deliciousness (and keep a few extra on the side for scientific taste testing purposes)

Cutting each berry in half will increase the surface area while allowing you to carefully examine every berry.

Method

1. Prepare your workspace (sanitize the jar and your equipment)

2. Wash berries thoroughly in demineralised water and allow to dry

3. Inspect and slice berries

4. Weigh berries

5. Weigh and add glycerine

6. Add preservative

7. Place lid on jar

8. Keep jar at room temperature away from direct sunlight (I usually pop a clean dishtowel over my brews so they are easy to check on)

9. Agitate the jar once a day for 5-7 days

At the top of this post is a peek at the jar shortly after I put on the lid. One cannot help but fall in love with the color, can one?

Fast forward 6 days.

Straining the Glycerite

Straining any glycerite can be an exercise in patience if you do not have any special straining equipment, so here are a few tips to help ease the process. I call this the double manual filter process.

You'll need

• Container

• Funnel (or 2)

• Filters (shown here are paper coffee filters but you can use layers of tightly woven cheesecloth or muslin cloth as well)

• Protective gloves

• Bottle

Be sure your funnels, container and equipment are all sanitised before you start. Don a pair of protective latex or nitrile gloves, place the funnel over the container and line it with a filter.

Prepare a second filter (so it can be slotted into place with one hand)

Pour the mixture into the funnel.

Scoop out and discard any excess floating berries.

The liquid dripping though the filter will slow down after a while.

When that happens, gently gather the edges of the filter and lift it up while placing a new filter (or second funnel with filter) into place. You now have a handful of filter number 1 - containing mostly berries and some glycerite.

Ever so gently, squeeze the filter you are holding to extract as much liquid as possible.

Discard the fruit-laden filter.

You now have a setup that looks like this: a filter full of mixture that is slowly straining.

Key word: slowly.

They say patience is a virtue.

Prepare to be virtuous.

Here's how:

1. Place your filter/container setup in an undisturbed place.

2. Cover it loosely with a 'foil tent' or other material that will keep dust, bugs, etc away from the mixture.

3. Wait.

4. Wait some more.

5. Wait even longer.

6. If your glycerite stops dripping altogether, repeat the filter replacement process.

7. When the glycerite has finished straining, transfer it to your bottle.

8. Date and label the bottle.

9. Store your glycerite dark and cool.

Time Factor

This particular glycerite was strained using solely coffee filters and took a total of 5 and a half hours to filter through. It would in all likelihood have gone faster with some of the above mentioned cloth options.

TIP: If you use cloth filters, be sure the cloth is clean before use (wash new fabric before use as it is most often chemically treated)

How Long Does a Glycerite Last?

I have glycerites over 5 years old that are still good. That said, if you are using your glycerite in a cosmetic that is expected to have a reasonable shelf life, I recommend using it within 6 months of making.

Enjoy!

Blueberry fun facts

• Blueberries have an average water content of around 84%

• 100 grams of blueberries is about 57 calories

• Blueberries have a natural content of methylparaben

Do Tell

Do you make glycerites? Which products do you use them in?

PS: The book below is a complete guide to making your own glycerites for cosmetics and even shows you how to drop the preservative and make your own self preserving glycerites.

The Art of Making Glycerites for Cosmetics

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